Fusible link

[mowgliprynne]

I need a fusible link…. Pleas help I don’t wanna snip the wires 

pic for reference 

[mowgliprynne]

And clip also…

[Charlie69]

The pictures I posted are from the internet.  They are for reference I do not have any spares or for sale.  I also need one for my 1984 720 king cab ST that has a burnt out one.  A previous owner put 30 amp fuses in the fuse block and destroyed the fusible link and the harness.  Many burned wires and wires that have been hot enough to melt the insulation together.

[720_Jeff]

This is a hard part to find, in SoCal.  I've seen only maybe 2 still on vehicles at Pick Your Part.  

 

Maybe, easiest way and widest audience, is eBay and or Facebook.  Some folks are parting out trucks...

[datzenmike]

You can buy fusible link wire, just keep the lengths similar. Solder them to the spade connectors.

 

This is the Nissan color code. Just match the amperage rating.

 

[bigleagueteague]

Hijacking this... don't really want to create another fusible link thread, but I've searched and searched and can't find the details I need.

 

I'm trying to recreate the fusible link for an '84 720 4x4 I recently snatched up (I'll introduce it in another thread).

 

I have some of the connectors from the original, but there are 2 lingering questions before I make a new one:

 

1. What gauges of fusible link wire should I be using? Mine has the 2 green (40A), 1 black (80A).

This thread suggests 20 gauge for green (@datzenmike), and I'm guessing 14 or 16 for black? Looks like @jamesh put together a fusible link using what can be made out as 1.0 sq mm to replace the Nissan green and ??? for Nissan black here. Pretty sure the 1.0 sq mm is 16 gauge - Tried sending him a message to confirm, but no answer yet.

 

2. What length? I've seen ~4" in another thread...

 

Thanks!

[datzenmike]

Unless a California model or having a diesel engine the '84 is 2 Green and 1 Black fusible links. 

 

Do NOT replace with ordinary wire. What makes a fusible link a fusible link is the fire resistant Hypalon plastic coating. Ordinary wire will burn when the wire gets hot enough to melt. The whole point of the fusible link is to not start a fire.

 

Green is 40 amp rating and Black is 80 amp. If you can't match the Nissan color code then definitely match the 40 and 80 amp rating. You could replace with newer fuses but the beauty of a fusible link is it can sustain an accidental dead short for several seconds without blowing whereas a fuse will blow instantly.

 

4" lengths are find.

[bigleagueteague]

Yup - Z24, factory link = 2 green, 1 black

 

I'm an electrical newbie and am having a hell of a time figuring out amp ratings for fusible link that I'm seeing at my local parts shops...

 

@datzenmike, you noted in another thread that gauges for fusible link are as follows:

• 20 gauge: 0.5 square mm
• 18 gauge: 0.8 square mm 
• 16 gauge: 1.0 square mm
• 14 gauge: 2.0 square mm

and that the factory green fusible link is 0.5 square mm.

 

I have found some 20 gauge 0.5 square mm fusible link to take the place of the factory green. Now I'm trying to figure out what gauge I need to replace the factory black 80 amp fusible link... I'd measure with calipers, but my factory black fusible link wire is pretty thrashed, I can't really trust it.

 

[datzenmike]

Does the replacement links not have an amperage rating?? Anything that is 20 and 40 will do. Green and Black are just Nissan's code. GM or Ford are probably different.

 

Maybe this is more helpful?

 

[bigleagueteague]

I wish the Napa links had an amperage rating, that would make this whole process a lot easier.

 

I think that last image has the answer I was looking for - seems I need some 0.5 square mm, or 20 gauge, to replace the green, and 1.25 square mm, or ~16 gauge, to replace the black.

[datzenmike]

That's my understanding too.

[Charlie69]

Here Mike I edited this file to include the gauge info. First is jpg image.  Not sure if the word doc will work.  Please let me know if it does or does not.

 

Fusible Link Information.docx

Edited August 3, 2021 by Charlie69

[bigleagueteague]

 Looks good, word doc works too. Some precise length measurements on there would make for perfection! 😉

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Basic rule of thumb for fusible link wire is to size it four numbers higher than the wire it is protecting.

 

So if you're protecting a 10 ga wire, you use a 14 ga fusible link.

 

If you are having a hard time identifying the wire gauge in the harness, it probably has markings on it, and they may not make sense to you, but if you google them you will find reference table with a gauge in metric. Metric to AWG conversion is simple https://www.lapptannehill.com/resources/technical-information/metric-to-awg-conversion-chart

 

As for length, always try to go the same length as the factory used.

 

If you're having trouble because you want to use factory connectors, ditch the factory connectors and use Deutsch DTP connectors. If you need higher amp rated connectors, Deutsch DTHD work up to 50 amp (I think), but are only in single wire connectors. There are high amp connectors from Aptiv (formerly Delphi) which use Packard terminals, but ordering Aptiv/Delphi/Packard terminals and connectors usually requires a lot of research to find the proper name or part number to search.
 

Waytek has the easiest search engine - https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1598/Connectors/

Mouser has the most selection - https://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Pin-Socket-Connectors/_/N-ay0mm

Del City is easy to search and most stuff in stock, but limited selection - https://www.delcity.net/store/Wire-Connectors-&-Quick-Splices/

 

 

Edited August 3, 2021 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[510_dreamin]

Is there a particular connector you can recommend?

 

I believe I need a 16 gauge fusible link for the black wire for the alternator but replacing the factory connectors will be almost impossible so looking to just change them out to get it back on the road 

[datzenmike]

The 510 fusible link is between the positive cable on the starter and the fuse box above it. I think it's Red or 50 amp but could be wrong. I would crimp bullet  connectors on the ends of the old wires. Put the other bullet connectors on the new fusible link and plug it in. I would solder all the connectors.

[iceman510]

7 hours ago, 510_dreamin said:

Is there a particular connector you can recommend?

 

I believe I need a 16 gauge fusible link for the black wire for the alternator but replacing the factory connectors will be almost impossible so looking to just change them out to get it back on the road 

 

I just bought some of these (not used yet).  I believe these match the connectors on the factory fusible links at least for the 510. You get more parts that you need with this unless replacing the harness side connector too.  Not sure if they would sell just the terminal and connector body needed for the fusible link portion separately, but you could ask.  Could replace the harness side too to get a good clean terminal.

 

http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/140

 

 

[Charlie69]

I haved been using Vintage Connection's connectors for over a decade now.  Good people to work with.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

1 hour ago, iceman510 said:

 

I just bought some of these (not used yet).  I believe these match the connectors on the factory fusible links at least for the 510. You get more parts that you need with this unless replacing the harness side connector too.  Not sure if they would sell just the terminal and connector body needed for the fusible link portion separately, but you could ask.  Could replace the harness side too to get a good clean terminal.

 

http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/140

 

 

It's all about amperage draw. That 7.8mm terminal is pretty big, almost 5/16 wide. Depending on the wire gauge it accepts, it should carry 80 amps without problems. Maybe more, but that's just a guess. There has to be a chart somewhere. I usually rely on the MFG's info for amp rating on terminals.