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jamesh

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Cars
    85 nissan 720 king cab, 2.4 l; 95 chevy 1500 4.3 l vortec

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  1. an interesting update; I was having issues with brake lights. I was tracing the connections and trouble shooting that system, and may have jostled something just right. The tachometer has been resurrected.
  2. Used a 4x4 to shim the brake pedal to the floor (actuating the switch) so that I could walk to the rear of the vehicle and see what was going on...
  3. Ok, so I started the truck and turned on the four-way switch. I noticed that from the inside only one of the turn signal flashers was flicking on and off, so I straightened out the wheel and gave it a light tap and both turn signal flashers were blinking on and off. Shimmed the brake pedal and voila, the lights are back. what gives? Does the signal go to the steering column before going to the brake switch?
  4. Sorry, no brake lights! All other lights, turn signals, etc completely fine.
  5. Hi all, I’ve glanced around at various posts related to this but can’t seem to figure it out, it’s raining here today so I can’t do much at this moment, but plan to get to it afterward. the switch checks out OK. I just tested continuity with and without depressing the little button. i was getting bizarre voltage readings at the switch terminals, less than 12v but fluctuating quite a bit from 4-9v. i was curious as to how all of this is wired up. The white wire from the fusible link, tied to the pos terminal runs to the upper part of the fuse panel (inside, drivers side)and seems to power several things, one of which includes “stop lamps” - which has the yellow/red wire in that position. maybe I’m asking an electrical 101 question, but where does this yellow/red wire go from here? I think my manual shows it going straight to the brake switch. Could I run a new wire from fuse panel to brake switch? Anyone else run into something like this before? It seems like the problem is likely as this wire is on its way to the switch. Since the yellow/blue gets its voltage after the switch, I assume all downstream wiring is OK.
  6. jamesh

    Speedometer cable

    So turns out the tach wasn’t the last thing wrong with the truck. When I pulled the speedo cable out from the instrument cluster I noticed oil leaking around the area, I have actually noticed some oil in that area since I acquired the truck. Also some oil on top of the transfer case under the truck. Anyway I looked at this post Wondering if anyone has since tracked down a reliable source or part no. for a new cable, or for the seals individually. as always, any other advice would be appreciated. thanks james
  7. jamesh

    Speedo cable

    Time Left: 10 days and 10 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for speedometer cable with intact seals for 1985 Nissan 720 z24, manual transmission. i believe part no.b5050-t7200

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  8. I see all of these going to the wire harness.
  9. This is (almost) the last thing not working on my truck at the moment. The 2.2k resistor checks out. Ive pulled the instrument cluster to examine. The yellow wire is getting voltage. But that must not be all it needs? any thoughts? after pulling the tach from the cluster, it appears to be in such excellent shape and I find it difficult to scrap such a fine piece of engineering and manufacturing.
  10. Better late than never. tested for vacuum leaks and everything was good. i installed redline part no. 99007.115 it is a throttle adapter kit. I want to do a write up on this, and how I installed it, but I cannot say enough positive things about it. This took my truck from being something incredibly difficult to drive, to having an accelerator pedal that feathers like a dream. No roller bearings needed, at least not yet. it was relatively easy to install, and it repositioned the throttle pull toward the driver side of the truck (factory has it pulling toward the passenger side). Only slight modification necessary. truck running pretty wel, none of the solenoid cut offs I bought seem to thread into my carburetor, the choke assembly is way to close, and the thread size for the primary choke is the same as the secondary, so maybe there is no part for this particular carburetor. Any leads on this would be helpful. still dieseling but suspecting that jets need to be adjusted slightly, possibly downsizing the idle stream, and even the main jet to make a more lean condition. will post on throttle adapter soon!
  11. I like the idea of putting bearings in, but I’d like to address the simplest things first, and fine tune from this point. For e.g. the throttle return spring has been rigged to the supplement hydraulic clutch booster line... the throttle cable bracket had never been lined up very well and so that hasn’t helped things either. This is another project. I made a new bracket but have since ordered an adapter through redline. As for the adapter plate: when I reinstalled, I cleaned up the questionable work. When I removed the carburetor, one of the studs hadn’t been seated into the intake manifold, it had been, amazingly, tapped into one of the frozen manifold studs. Anyway, I removed all of this and started over. When I reinstalled the intake manifold to adapter plate gasket, I put a thin coat of grease on the intake manifold side. (This was recommended by redline). How do you all check for leaks? Vacuum or otherwise.
  12. There aren’t many vacuum lines to be leaking, and I capped off anything that did have a line previously.
  13. Spray starter fluid around the carb w truck running and listen to engine?
  14. jamesh

    Fusible link

    As far as I could tell from my research, the wires were all tied together in the main harness and that was linked directly to the positive, so that’s what I did with the copper ring terminal.
  15. jamesh

    Fusible link

    Yes! It was just a bunch of random spliced copper wire before, now it is the fusible link.
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