rear main seal replacement z24

[matrophy]

While changing clutch I removed flywheel to look at rear main seal and I saw a small amount of  oil splatter so I installed a new Nissan NOS seal but kinda forgot to look and see how far recessed the old seal was. Should it be bottomed out or just below flush? 

[datzenmike]

Go in all the way. Hammer lightly till it stops moving. Too late to say this now but put a little grease on the lips first so it doesn't start up dry.

[matrophy]

38 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Go in all the way. Hammer lightly till it stops moving. Too late to say this now but put a little grease on the lips first so it doesn't start up dry.

I used a 3/8" extension to tap it but that would only allow me to go a little below flush. Any suggestion for something that will allow it to go deeper and not damage it? I greased it and hopefully I used enough so it keeps sliding

[datzenmike]

No, the inside of the seal where it will rub against the crankshaft.

 

Ideally a 2" long piece of 4" diameter pipe that will fit over the crankshaft but small enough to sit against the seal.

 

[matrophy]

Thanks Mike. I'll see about getting a 4" piece of pipe. I sent you a PM just now on a separate topic.

[datzenmike]

Measure the end of the crankshaft, I was guessing. Plastic conduit will work also. Put 2x4 over it and hammer the center lightly. Last one I did was a wooden dowel and just tap round and round the outside. 

[captain720]

19 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Measure the end of the crankshaft, I was guessing. Plastic conduit will work also. Put 2x4 over it and hammer the center lightly. Last one I did was a wooden dowel and just tap round and round the outside. 

Use very light taps when going around the outside like that, easy to get it going crooked. I have used large sockets, 12pts can work good.

[matrophy]

I guess I'm doing something wrong because I have now ruined 2 seals while trying to get it seated all the way back in to the opening.

 

I was tapping with a dowel and in both cases, the rubber on the outside part that faces the clutch split. I have been lubing the inside surface with moly grease and I'm not sure if I am supposed to oil the outside thinking that may just create a path for oil to leak by in the future.

 

I have been trying to do light taps but maybe not light enough and admittedly the last one was going in crooked but I saw no way to pull it out to start over.

 

I have been buying these expensive-ass NOS seals from Nissan and I'll continue to do so unless there is a cheaper alternative that performs well.

 

I found that a 93mm oil filter socket fits between the crank and the block. It has a kind of sharp front edge so using my laser engraver, I cut a ring out of plastic sheet that has a slightly smaller ID and OD as the opening and I hope to use that against the seal and tap it in with the oil filter socket.

 

Any other suggestions or critiques of my technique would be appreciated.

Edited July 11, 2020 by matrophy

[Draker]

Use the old seal to drive in the new one. Put new seal in position. Use old seal, flip it over.place on top of new seal do the faces are touching. Place a piece of wood over the stacked seals. Hit wood in the center to drive new seal in evenly. 
 

if you bottom out before new seal is all the way in, remove the old seal and drive the rest of the way in with the piece of wood and hammer. 
 

you can also put rtv on the outside edge to get it to slide in easier and seal. I don’t normally use that technique but I’ve seen it done. And of course lube the inner lip like you’ve been doing.

 

or just buy a seal driver. I always use the old seal technique. It’s easy and the new seal doesn’t get damaged that way.

 

good luck.

[matrophy]

I'd be a little nervous about RTV. Is it your opinion that I shouldn't use oil on the outside edge? I'm pretty sure that I heard not to somewhere but I'm not really sure where.

[datzenmike]

The outside edge of the seal is metal that crushes as it's driven in and seals. You don't need RTV, you can if you want. The open end of the seal goes into the engine.

[matrophy]

There are some very slight scratches on the crank at the outside edge but not where the seal ultimately sits so I assume that's OK? You can barely feel them with a fingernail.

[captain720]

4 hours ago, matrophy said:

There are some very slight scratches on the crank at the outside edge but not where the seal ultimately sits so I assume that's OK? You can barely feel them with a fingernail.

I would run it if it had a hole in it but that's just me and I am probably wrong.

[Charlie69]

Run it the way it is.  That is the only way to know if you have a problem or not.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

21 hours ago, matrophy said:

There are some very slight scratches on the crank at the outside edge but not where the seal ultimately sits so I assume that's OK? You can barely feel them with a fingernail.

That's why you grease the inner part of the seal, so it can slip over those imperfections without getting torn.

 

FYI- I have been using vaseline for the past few years, and I like it more because it disappears quickly and doesn't pollute the oil. Some heavy grease will actually ball up inside the engine.

[matrophy]

On 7/12/2020 at 10:08 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

That's why you grease the inner part of the seal, so it can slip over those imperfections without getting torn.

 

FYI- I have been using vaseline for the past few years, and I like it more because it disappears quickly and doesn't pollute the oil. Some heavy grease will actually ball up inside the engine.

Hello, I sent you a Pm just now. Colin