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Everything posted by matrophy

  1. mklotz made a template for the cutout to mount a stock air cleaner to a DGEV. I attached it here. I have this on my list but my first thought is if I cut out the bottom of the z24 air cleaner, there is nothing to hold the filter in place but I haven't looked at that closely. If anyone has done it with a z24 air cleaner, I'd like to see photos weberaircleaner.pdf
  2. I don't like - or don't know how to prevent - oil leaking all over the place when I remove the filter
  3. I'd like to go to a remote oil filter but it seems that what's available online looks cheap and since it's important that it works perfectly, I'm looking for any recommendations for a z24 in my '86 720.
  4. Pretty sure there's a gap if it idles at 1200 when you first start it
  5. Here's a follow-up. I adjusted the choke about 1/8" richer (which is ccw). With 3 pumps of the accelerator and then foot off the gas, it fired right up and idled at 1200 rpm. I may adjust the fast idle up a little. Thanks for the help. I do believe I'm out of projects on my truck now.
  6. I assume ccw is richer? BTW - Don't know if you're a Breaking Bad fan or just like the meme but we just re-watched the whole show for the 3rd time and it gets better every time I watch it. The best and most perfect TV show ever - IMO.
  7. Understood. Seems like something is wrong because the fast idle disengages while cranking the engine cold and pumping the accelerator. The workaround right now is to pump the throttle several times before attempting to start - my theory being that doing so fills the carb with fuel via the accelerator pump - and not touching the throttle until it idles a few minutes under fast idle. I can do that if that's how it supposed to be done but it doesn't seem normal - whatever normal is. Maybe this engine is just cold-blooded. I have no frame of reference because when I first got this truck, the choke was inoperable and the gas had to be pumped several times when starting and babied until it idled well. There was no fast idle. It was a PITA on cold Oregon mornings for sure. I kind of expected that swapping the Weber would solve this.
  8. When I do as you describe with engine dead cold, when I open the throttle, I can hear the linkage click and the choke slams closed. There is a gap at the throttle screw of about 1/4". I'm not sure what you mean by 'watching what happens when the choke closes' because the choke is closed at that point. In any case, the choke seems to be working OK when the engine is cold before the engine starts. I pumped the accelerator several times to get fuel sprayed into the carb before trying to start the engine and doing so allowed the engine to start without pumping the accelerator. The engine started and idled around 1500 rpm. I'm not sure if that's too high. Once I blip the throttle, the fast idle stops and the rpms drop to around 500 rpm until the engine warms up and it idles fine at around 800 rpm. This is the same thing that is happening while I'm cranking the engine. By the time it starts after several pumps of the accelerator, I think the fast idle is disengaging. What I think might be happening is that the cam of the fast idle is at it's minimum height when cold so a few pumps of the accelerator and slight movement of the choke plate causes the fast idle to disengage. I can't see the cam with the carb on the engine so I'm just guessing. I wonder if I should adjust the choke so it is higher on the cam when cold? I marked the location of the choke housing when I installed the carb and it is still set at that point. How large of a gap should there be at the idle adjustment screw when cold and choke engaged?
  9. Should I also be pumping the accelerator as I'm cranking, leave it alone, or hold it partway open?
  10. The choke and/or fast idle on my new 32/36 Weber is acting funny. This is a carb that gave me nothing but trouble initially and I am not sure that the fast idle was ever working right. Right now, if I blip the throttle before starting with the engine dead cold, the choke slams shut and there is a gap between the throttle adjusting screw and the throttle lever as if the fast idle is engaged correctly. In order to start the engine, I have to pump the throttle a few more times while cranking. Somehow after doing this, the fast idle linkage must be clicking off and there is no longer a gap at the throttle screw. Once the engine starts, the engine idles at 500 rpm requiring lots of pumping of the accelerator to stay running. Once the engine warms up, it idles at around 800 rpm and stays at that idle for the remainder of the time. I've tried blipping the throttle twice before turning the key to maybe get more fuel into the carb so it starts right away but that doesn't seem to help the engine start without cranking and pumping the accelerator. I blipped the throttle up to 4 times just now with the engine off and cold and the fast idle linkage seems to be working OK with a gap at the idle screw still. Somewhere in the process of cranking and pumping, the fast idle is disengaging so there's no fast idle. It seems like either, I'm not following the correct procedure when trying to start the engine or, maybe there's something wrong with the fast idle adjustment. Am I supposed to pump once or twice before starting and then hold the throttle partway open while cranking - rather than pumping the accelerator while cranking? I've done plenty of searching to find info about adjusting the fast idle and haven't found anything comprehensive enough to cover this issue
  11. I'm looking forward to hearing how the EPS swap goes. Do you think there will be a lot of fab work?
  12. I haven't driven it about 30 mph yet and once I do and if feel anything funky I might take Charlie's suggestion about a free check. I'll have to say that the power steering is SO nice!
  13. Just swapped in a PS setup from an '83 4WD 720 into my '86 2WD 720. I don't think I need to do a wheel alignment since everything went together easily and I didn't disturb any of the other steering parts. I just want to make sure that I'm not missing something and should have an alignment done. I had an alignment maybe 5000 miles ago after I completely redid the front steering and suspension. I did have to swap the Pitman arm from my 2WD on to the 4WD box but it lined right back up with the center link with the wheels and steering wheel at their centers
  14. So 1/2" to 3/4" is probably normal?
  15. While adjusting my valves I shone a light on my timing chain inside the case and the guides look to be in good shape. I found a little bit of play - maybe 1-2" to 3/4" on the right driver's side. Is that normal? I have no other symptoms.
  16. Those fastboatman tutorials are lifesavers No joke! though a little confusing at times like i said, but it helped me out for sure.
  17. Kinda what I figured. The PO took a silly straw (no joke) and bent over one end with electrical tape to cap off one of the lines so I figured I'd probably have to embark on the laborious process of tracing and replacing the lines. Hoping I could take the easy way out lmao Mike you know it's more than 8 feet if everything is replaced. .Yeah yeah. I know. It's just a PITA i mean honestly it's not too bad, but then again i've gone through the process, then put a weber on, put hitachi back, put weber on again, so i've had a little practice. Do you have the link to the Vac line replacement tutorial? it really helps, though it can get a little confusing. i kind of want to draw something else to make it a little more understanding, but i suck at drawing. Maybe i'll make some sort of photoshop thing. https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-720-pickup-truck-vacuum-hose-routing-and-repair-guide.html
  18. I bought an 85 720 King Cab that a neighbor had in his field for 10+ years. It runs pretty well considering and it is running a 6-wire Cal smog Hitachi carb. The vacuum lines are in pretty sorry shape and rather than replacing them, I'm wonder if I can delete them. Since the car is running the ECCS system I'm not sure if removing all the vaccum lines would affect the engine since it still has the Hitachi carb
  19. My understanding is that his version will have some sort of message on the display if it needs to be re-calibrated. It didn't require calibration at first though
  20. The AEM kit comes with the correct Bosch O2 sensor although, rumor has it that there is one on Amazon that works just as well. After installing the new O2 sensor, it's just a matter of mounting the gauge, running the cable from the 02 sensor to the gauge and power and ground. You need to add a fuse inline per the instructions. If you want to collect data you need an Rs232 to USB adaptor and some logging software
  21. 60 is what Redline put in it originally. At first is was running lean as hell so I went all the way up to 75 to find out that the throttle shaft was bent and holding the throttle valves open. I went to 55 and it was running too lean. 60 runs a little rich so whattya gonna do? There is a 57 jet available that I might think about trying if the gas mileage is unreasonable. I've heard varying suggestions for the relationship between the primary and secondary mains. Equal, main larger, secondary larger so if nothing else, this probably proves that there are lots of ways to go.
  22. I have quite a few jets left over if you need any
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