Timing

[Leo92335]

Thanks Mike, so it's difficult to find the one my 1973 620 ha

[banzai510(hainz)]

waiting for this coil install !!!!!!!!!!! maybe some photos also

[Leo92335]

Hello banzai,  sorry I didn't see your last reply, yes coil went great I just bypassed the resistor and truck runs great 

[Leo92335]

What's up fellas nice to write with you guys again, of course I got a problem with this truck it seems that it will never end anyway I've been dealing with water inside the cabin and it even has rust holes in the floor and I've discovered it's the windshield, it has a very good windshield no cracks or scratches like someone installed it before I bought it, but I don't see any kind of silicone looks like they just put the rubber around the glass and installed it, now I want to fix it, any of you great advisors has an idea how to fix it?,,  I've bought a special urethane adhesive like the one the pros use to install the modern windshields but I would like to hear your opinion before I apply it around the rubber and trucks frame, thanks in advance fellas 

[datzenmike]

Once on it will be glued together forever. I had some stuff years ago that you could remove with difficultly. The Urethane is for windshields with out the rubber gasket that are literally 'glued in place'.

[Leo92335]

Hello  Mike nice to have your advice and to chat with you,I had my wife helped me installed the urethane it looks solid, unfortunately looks like I'm going to have to repaint all around the windshield because it's really messy, but it's ok, it's better than leaking every rain  ,thank you Mike 

[datzenmike]

Was it rusted out between the rubber gasket and the body? That, you can remove the window and fix then put back in. For glass to rubber it's a rubbery compound that can be stripped out if the window is ever replaced. I went to a glass installation shop and the guy gave me a part tube of it. Urethane works but messy and hard to get off hands.... and more permanent.

[Leo92335]

It didn't look rusted so I opened the rubber with a plastic prying tool and cleaned it with qtips acetone and we applied the urethane the same way, the urethane was super hard to apply with a caulk gun so i broke the tube and applied by hand with a plastic tool ,it was very messy but I cleaned it with acetone

[Leo92335]

Hello fellas, I would like your advice, I'm trying to change the oil pan gasket and I removed the engine bar but now I have to remove the suspension bar and I don't know how and I don't want to ruin the seals, any advice how to remove it?

[datzenmike]

That's the steering cross rod. The nuts to the inside are the locking nuts. Mark their location somehow and just barely loosen them both. With vice grips turn the bar in the center. I forget which is loosen. The ends with the ball joints on them have L&R thread so loosening will unscrew the cross rod from both. Now likely one side will unscrew first so stop there and try swinging the rod out of the way while attached to the other side. When done, DON'T forget to tighten the lock nuts.

[Leo92335]

Thanks for your help Mike I just sent you an email so just ignore it, I will try it and I'll let you know ,thanks again 

[Leo92335]

Hello Mike, thank you very much for the instructions it really saved my life, I was about to mess with the ball joint, god bless you and this site  ,I finished everything I'm just having trouble aligning the bolts of the bracket under the engine do you know any trick to put back the bolts?

[Leo92335]

The holes lined up after I dropped the truck so I'm good, thanks for being there for me, this dam truck I know it better than I know my wife lol 

[Leo92335]

Good morning Mike, ive noticed my front tires are wearing down unevenly on the inside of the tread do you know how to adjust it 

[datzenmike]

Go to the front and look at the tire. Is the top tilted inwards? This would be negative camber and places more weight on the inside of the tread. Generally straight up and down would be better but excessive positive or negative will wear the edges. Camber is severely affected by lowering or raising the vehicle ride height. If you are at stock height camber should not be a problem.

 

Get a tape measure and measure from a common point on the tire treads under the truck on the rear side of the tires and record this. For example the inside edges of the treads. Now do the same across the fronts. The front measurement should be just a hair shorter than the behind measurement. This is the toe measurement. Excessive toe will also wear the insides of the tires. The '73 should toe in 0.2 to 0.3" but exactly where this measurement is taken is not mentioned in the factory manual. An alignment shop would know. When I got my 620 it steered all over the road. I parked in my driveway and went across the street and stood in the ditch. The toe in was so bad that over that distance the two front tires were pointed directly at me. Both tires had tread on the outsides and bald on the insides. I adjusted the cross rod so that there was just barely measurable toe in and it was fine.

[banzai510(hainz)]

MY 510 has bad camber in the rear  which is not that bad

 

but if the front end is not lined up correctly (TOE IN/OUT)it will wear the tire out in like 500miles  and if neg camber it will be inner tire wear very noticable

[Leo92335]

The previous owner had lowered the truck so I know it's lower and That's how the tires are, good tread outside bald inside in less than 1000 miles, 

[datzenmike]

ANY change in ride height from stock will always pull the tires inwards... or toe in. 

 

The 510 also changes toe at the rear as the suspension flexes. Agree that toe wears more than camber but that could be that toe isn't as noticeable and can be really bad before someone sees the tire wear and it's corrected

[banzai510(hainz)]

take it to a alignment shop    I lay money it out of alighnment.

 

My ex yellow  510  I could actuall see they were out!!!!!!!!!!!!! toe out

 

neg chamber isnt going to ruin a tire in 1000 miles

[datzenmike]

I had extreme toe in. Both fought each other evenly but if you hit a puddle on one side it lost it's traction and the other wheel would send you to the shoulder or oncoming traffic. On slow turns in town, as you neared full lock the wheel would suddenly turn into the turn by itself. It was scary but this what it does. Toe out slightly on my 710 tended to wander and you had to constantly correct it. With slight toe in this was totally corrected.

[Leo92335]

It's exactly what it does,when I brake rough the wheels turn to left and right I have to hold the steering wheel very hard to control it 

[datzenmike]

That's also partly drum brakes on the front. One is always better adjusted but yeah random steering is scary. I fixed it before I ever had to panic stop.

[Leo92335]

Hello guys it's been a while hope you guys ok , when I've bought the truck the clutch slave cylinder was leaking and I've installed two dorman from Amazon and both are defective both are leaking from the seal in the cylinder so it had nothing to do with installation,I also installed a new hose ,do you guys have a certain brand or any ideas why they keep leaking?

[datzenmike]

$9??? ya gits wut ya gits. After market parts are a waste of time.

 

Get something from Japan.

 

I've never seen an L series slave that wouldn't work on another transmission, such as the 71B on the 620 and 720 truck. Why not try a slave from a KA powered Hardbody/Xterra with a 71C transmission.  They are also 3/4" and the clutch arm throw is the same. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

if they over extend at the fork they pretty much done.  you adjust this correctly. Since you have a 73 I dont know if this is the same as a 510/521 with the adjustable threaded haf moon one with the jam nut. make sure the treaded rod is inserted all the way in there

 

Be honest even the cheap Taiwan China one should last ok amount of time on a stock clutch.  I get the Jap made ones if possible esp if one runs a Roaster pressure plate