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Leo92335

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How is it going guys,,,,,,Clutch problem solved, thanks fellas, I have a new question ,my heater core shut off valve started leaking so I removed it, my question is can I install a universal shut off valve and have it completely closed on the hot weather??,,, it won't affect the engine if there is no circulation of coolant though the heater core?

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  • 5 weeks later...

Yes. There isn't much room for a larger higher output alternator so if you are happy with the 38amp output you have now get a '78-'79 620 alternator. From '78 on all Nissans were internally regulated.

 

1/ The VR (voltage regulator) can be removed and the wires cut off of it keeping the plastic plug and the wires as long as you can. Join the following two pairs of wires. White to Yellow and White/Black to White/Red

 

R5IRJ6w.jpg

 

What I did was slip some heat shrink tubing on, then solder, (solder is crucial) slide the heat shrink into place and heat. You could use electrical tape, not as neat. The remaining wires are best removed from the plug. I used a hair pin to bend the little tabs back so the pins can be pulled back out. Now plug this back into the engine harness and that part is done.

 

2/ Well, now unfortunately, the choke heater relay is permanently wired on on. If the ignition is off no power goes to the electric choke but the relay is still energized and over 2-3 days this tiny draw will kill the battery. So unplug the choke heater relay. You can remove it if you like. It's on the passenger inner fender, has four wires ...

 

Yellow

Black

Blue/White

Blue/White

 

3/ Unfortunately, (one thing leads to another) now you have no power to the choke heater when engine running and the choke won't warm up, shut off and stay off. So a new source of power that is on with the engine must be found. Luckily on the carburetor, right beside the Blue choke heater wire is the Red idle cut solenoid wire. Join the Blue wire to the Red solenoid wire and you are done.

 

 Amazon.com: ALAVENTE Carburetor Replacement for Nissan 720 Pickup 2.4L Z24  Engine 1983 1984 1985 1986, Carburetor Carb for Z24 (OE No.: 16010-21G61) :  Automotive

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First, clean the battery posts and the cable ends. That help? Free to fine out.

 

Probably the regulator but you could disconnect the battery and use jumpers to another car. Start it up and run it on the other car's battery and see what the voltage is. If still up to 16 then not the battery and it didn't cost anything to find out.

 

I doubt it's the alternator as the regulator monitors the output and adjusts the current through the rotor that increases (or decreases) the magnetism it generates. This in turn induces more (or less) output in the stator windings. The alternator can't really over charge unless told to by the regulator.

 

 

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I was going to Walmart anyway and my battery was due to change so I've bought a new one today and I installed it so I know is not the battery, so it's probably the regulator because it was making a lot of noise but I cleaned the connections and it's better but still high voltage, what do you think?

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Thanks for your help Mike I really appreciate your help  ,I'm sure karma is treating good for helping people, anyway I have the original service manual for the 1973 620 and I discovered that the regulator is adjustable and it is but the one I have is after market so it didn't have the adjustable screws so I was just bending the points and after 50 tries of trying to adjust it I was able to keep it at 25 v at idling and 33 v at max which is enough until I get the new one I ordered from Amazon for 24 bucks which is not adjustable anymore and maybe completely electronic which is great anyway thanks Mike and good night. 

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