Timing

[Leo92335]

How is it going guys,,,,,,Clutch problem solved, thanks fellas, I have a new question ,my heater core shut off valve started leaking so I removed it, my question is can I install a universal shut off valve and have it completely closed on the hot weather??,,, it won't affect the engine if there is no circulation of coolant though the heater core?

[datzenmike]

Anything that shuts off the flow of water through the heater core is fine. I've seen an old tap used

 

[Leo92335]

Awesome  ,thanks Mike 

[Leo92335]

How is it going mike, do you know how to eliminate the voltage regulator and buy an alternator with an internal regulator for my 1973 620 ?

[datzenmike]

Yes. There isn't much room for a larger higher output alternator so if you are happy with the 38amp output you have now get a '78-'79 620 alternator. From '78 on all Nissans were internally regulated.

 

1/ The VR (voltage regulator) can be removed and the wires cut off of it keeping the plastic plug and the wires as long as you can. Join the following two pairs of wires. White to Yellow and White/Black to White/Red

 

 

What I did was slip some heat shrink tubing on, then solder, (solder is crucial) slide the heat shrink into place and heat. You could use electrical tape, not as neat. The remaining wires are best removed from the plug. I used a hair pin to bend the little tabs back so the pins can be pulled back out. Now plug this back into the engine harness and that part is done.

 

2/ Well, now unfortunately, the choke heater relay is permanently wired on on. If the ignition is off no power goes to the electric choke but the relay is still energized and over 2-3 days this tiny draw will kill the battery. So unplug the choke heater relay. You can remove it if you like. It's on the passenger inner fender, has four wires ...

 

Yellow

Black

Blue/White

Blue/White

 

3/ Unfortunately, (one thing leads to another) now you have no power to the choke heater when engine running and the choke won't warm up, shut off and stay off. So a new source of power that is on with the engine must be found. Luckily on the carburetor, right beside the Blue choke heater wire is the Red idle cut solenoid wire. Join the Blue wire to the Red solenoid wire and you are done.

 

 

[Leo92335]

Thanks Mike, I'll try to fix my stock  first, I've noticed my voltage is up to 16v when I'm driving and my regulator is vibrating should I change my regulator or my alternator 

[datzenmike]

First, clean the battery posts and the cable ends. That help? Free to fine out.

 

Probably the regulator but you could disconnect the battery and use jumpers to another car. Start it up and run it on the other car's battery and see what the voltage is. If still up to 16 then not the battery and it didn't cost anything to find out.

 

I doubt it's the alternator as the regulator monitors the output and adjusts the current through the rotor that increases (or decreases) the magnetism it generates. This in turn induces more (or less) output in the stator windings. The alternator can't really over charge unless told to by the regulator.

 

 

[Leo92335]

I was going to Walmart anyway and my battery was due to change so I've bought a new one today and I installed it so I know is not the battery, so it's probably the regulator because it was making a lot of noise but I cleaned the connections and it's better but still high voltage, what do you think?

[datzenmike]

Got to be.

[Leo92335]

Thanks for your help Mike I really appreciate your help  ,I'm sure karma is treating good for helping people, anyway I have the original service manual for the 1973 620 and I discovered that the regulator is adjustable and it is but the one I have is after market so it didn't have the adjustable screws so I was just bending the points and after 50 tries of trying to adjust it I was able to keep it at 25 v at idling and 33 v at max which is enough until I get the new one I ordered from Amazon for 24 bucks which is not adjustable anymore and maybe completely electronic which is great anyway thanks Mike and good night. 

[Leo92335]

I meant idling 12.5 and max 13.5 volts I'm a little drunk I like to work on the old datsun while enjoying some beers 🍻, cheers 

[Leo92335]

How is it going Mike,, my 1st gear always gets the engine a little jumpy when i release the clutch to get moving, and it's only the 1st one because after that it's smooth gear changing, do you know what it could be 

[banzai510(hainz)]

bleedd the slave cylinder any time when one has clutch issues

also since this is a early 620 which might have the same layout as a 510/521 where the slave cylinder as a adjustment threaded rod with a half moon nut with jam nut. make sure there isnt tension on there.

after that is should work otherwise you got worse issues

[Leo92335]

Thank you banzai for the help, in this old truck in over two years I've fixed pretty much the whole system because everything hurt at some point, when I got it ,it was leaking so I've changed the slave cylinder, the hose  ,and the clutch master, the clutch master  cylinder was leaking oil inside the firewall so I changed it too and no more leaks thank God but I have hat problem of jumpiness when I start on first gear, I did have a little bit of play between the rod and the stopper so i adjust it and thank you for your advice hopefully that was my problem  I'll let you know once I drive it, thanks again banzai, god bless you fella 

[datzenmike]

Sudden jumpy or harsh clutch engagement is always going to be most noticeable in first gear. It could be as simple as the clutch disc lining worn down to the rivets or the torsional springs in the disc missing or damaged. Flywheel surface gouged, clutch linings contaminated with oil, dirt or hydraulic fluid or the pressure plate damaged

 

 

 

 

[Leo92335]

Thanks for your help Mike, after adjusting the pedal it was about the same so today after work I lifted the rear part of the truck and I found that the round rubber boot or seal holding the drive shaft about in the middle is broken so the drive shaft is all loose and that's why it was jumpie at 1st gear,,anyway I have no idea where to start to replace it and I haven't looked for it in YouTube, any of you gentlemen have experience in replacing it I would really appreciate the help, thanks in advance fellas 

[datzenmike]

 

 

This thing?

 

You can unbolt it, remove the damaged part and wrap a thin strip of rubber mat or conveyor belt around the drive shaft, then clamp it back down. It worked so well for me that I never got around to replacing it.

[Leo92335]

Yes Mike exactly that thing, and thank you for the idea, I just have to get creative lol ,,ill let you know if it worked ,thanks buddy 

[Leo92335]

I did it exactly as the picture with thicker zip ties and it feels solid with no play so I know is not the bearings,,I'm just concerned about the zip ties being pressed with the bracket to see how long they will last  ,i wanted to upload a picture to show you but my phone has a more than 2 mp and the website  doesn't let me upload it.   anyway any day the beautiful datsun last I'll be thankful to your trick, thank you Buddy for your help and god bless you and your family 

[datzenmike]

The bearing never goes bad as it only allows the outer ring to remain stationery and clamped by rubber to the frame. The drive shaft spins inside it well supported. As long as the replaced rubber is firmly clamped it's fine. I used some conveyor belt cut into a narrow strip and wrapped 5-6 times around the drive shaft to build it up (like a jelly roll) and tightly clamped down. Like I said it worked so well I never fixed if any farther.

[Leo92335]

Hello guys Mike and banzai hope everything is going well in your life and wish you the best always  ,you guys have helped me so much and I wish I can do the same for you fellas, thank you and this great website for helping me in this project,  I'm trying to get this beautiful truck as smooth as possible and the brakes keeps getting better and better since I got it but my driver side front brake keeps getting missadjusted so after I adjust them in a couple of weeks the front driver brakes loosen up making the other side tighten up and start locking the brakes to the right for any hard stop,,any suggestion on how to fix it???

[datzenmike]

Find a secluded dirt road and bring the tuck to a stop with increasingly harder and harder brake pedal. Get out and see if it is the front right that locks up or maybe the back? Does the front left lock at all? They should all lock up at about the same time. See what you get.

 

Inspect all brake shoes for brake fluid wetness. Wet shoes will slip and not lock near as easy as dry ones.

 

Turning the star wheel down, from the backing plate side, spreads the shoes against the drums. Adjust with wheel in the air and spin till there is drag. After each adjustment step on the brakes several times to center the shoes and check and adjust again if needed.

 

Do you also check the rear adjustments?

 

 

[Leo92335]

Thanks for the reply Mike, I haven't opened the drum on the rear sides yet since I pretty much changed everything on the back and front and every time I adjust the front I also adjust the rear and there's no no loose brake fluid in the reservoir, I didn't know about pressing the brake after each adjustment so I just checked both front tires and pressed the brake and they both looks the same turn on the wheel so I'll see how it feels in a few weeks and take it from there, thanks Mike