Timing

[Leo92335]

Thanks for all your comments, I've called cd and he's willing to fix the 3 issues but we'll see, hopefully everything works out, do you guys know if the fan and shroud of a 1974 620 with the L18 would fit a 1973 620 with the L16?

[banzai510(hainz)]

shroud fit the bak side of the Rad so hole spacing should be close

74 620 might start having l20s in ther. I don't know

[datzenmike]

'73 L16s and '74 L18s had a rad support that went straight across... rads will be similar. '75 and up were L20B and the rad support bumps out for larger rad (thicker is my guess or for the 3 core option?) and to make room for the new clutch fans.

[Leo92335]

Hello guys I just installed the engine fan and shroud that I found on Ebay the question is can I leave the electric fan that I already have installed for extra cooling of the radiator and another question is the water temperature sensor I have turns on at 185 and stops at 180 is that correct or should I install a lower temperature one?

[datzenmike]

You could leave the fan in position but the stock fan is more than adequate for cooling.

 

The thermostat set the lowest engine temperature.  Stock thermostat will be 180-185F so the fan will be off and on continuous. Get a sensor switch for 190F to give the rad a chance to cool first and only if it begins to over head does the auxiliary fan come on.

[Leo92335]

Hey Mike good morning thanks for replying you are the man!,   I found one that turns on at 190 and turns of at 175 what do you think about this one 

[Leo92335]

I'm sorry If I put u on the spot mike,,another question where should the needle be on the gauge for a hot day like 110 f

[datzenmike]

Missed the reply.

 

Try it. If it turns off at 175 that might be a little low. With the thermostat open at 180+ dumping hot water into the rad it may never shut off.

 

My 710 has a 180F thermostat and driving where there is lots of air from vehicle speed it runs a hair over 1/2. If I sit at lights long enough or just idle it climbs to 2/3 to 3/4 (I would guess 190F-ish??) and the fan comes on. I've timed it and 10 seconds later it shuts off. About 30 seconds after that it turns on again and continues this cycle til I get moving. Never goes above 3/4 but never goes down to 1/2 either. The sensor switch is in -line in the lower rad hose.

 

I've been meaning to use my IR gun and see what the sender reads when the fan turns on and off. I've 'shot' the lower hose before but it doesn't instantly read the same temperature as the water inside it. I think the only real way is take it out and boil it in a pan of water. Too much trouble.

[Leo92335]

Thank you Mike I just needed confirmation that it's ok to be after the half mark Today I've timed it at different degrees because the idiots at California datsun left it at 15 and I've read here to set it at 10 so I've spent a lot of time timing and recording the degrees without the auxiliary fan on,,,,  also on the 5 as the book says and 10,and 15 ,,,,,and my readings were lower at 10 and the engine wouldn't rattle after I turn it off, so my mark was about 60 percent at idling after a couple of hours at 10 degrees ,somehow I tought that it should be below the half mark  so I guess it's ok to be after the mark and be ok,,,with this piece of crap truck I'm sure I will always need your advice from u guys but from the bottom of my heart thank you Mike and everyone else that has been helping me, thanks 

[Leo92335]

Hello guys, by any chance you guys know where I can buy a new windshield wipers motor for my 1973 620 ?

[datzenmike]

I would look for a used one off any year 620.

 

Try a want ad...https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/

[Leo92335]

I was able to fix the old motor ,fricken California datsun left my truck a mess  now my oil dipstick tube isleaking oil ,do you know if the oil dipstick tube just unscrews off ?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The dipstick tube on an L motor is a press fit. Getting them out without screwing up the press fit is best done from inside the crankcase, but it sounds like someone already screwed yours up so try pulling it out from the top and seal it with some RTV.

[datzenmike]

24 minutes ago, Leo92335 said:

I was able to fix the old motor ,fricken California datsun left my truck a mess... 

 

Says it all.

[banzai510(hainz)]

If you can pull it out then get a sealer or RTV and pressit back it and maybe it will seal.

This can happen to any moter when stuff was removed before and reinstalled. Calif Datsun or not.

Timing question.  Nothing wront with 15BTDC if it runs there with no proplems.   a SSS L16 with SUs is set for 14 so just depends on your set up and gas and if you have a weber DGV carb and head it can have ping and run on issues depending on set up.Esp open chamber heads

Edited October 28, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[Leo92335]

Hello guys,I paid California datsun $3050 for an engine rebuilt with an electronic distributor and its leaking everywhere and guess what California datsun doesn't even have a license to work on cars, bullshit right, please check on YouTube the burning I'm doing on them while fixing their mistakes, go to YouTube and type" California datsun amateur work " we need to pass the word around that they are an embarrassment to the datsun community 

[datzenmike]

I see that you still have your ballast resistor connected? Why is that?

 

Those are your old plug wires with electric tape on them? I would get rid of them.

 

An EI distributor is just over $100.

[Leo92335]

Hello Mike, I don't know if the resistor is needed or not I just have it because that's the way it's been and also California datsun left it when they changed the electronic distributor ,should I remove it and by pass it?

[datzenmike]

It's fine as is but the EI distributor is not being used to it intended ability. Right now all you have is the removal of the points. If you get the correct EI coil that goes with the matchbox distributor you can get rid of your old coil and ballast and you will have a added advantage of a higher voltage spark. It's something for another day.

[Leo92335]

Thanks for that Mike,,,omg I'm just so unlucky with this truck, California datsun really f-ed up I just discovered that my water pump gasket is leaking coolant and my crankshaft seal is leaking oil, I can handle the water pump seal but I have no idea how to change the crankshaft seal, any help on changing the crankshaft seal ?

[datzenmike]

Remove the 27mm crankshaft bolt and tap the rear side of the pulley forward and off, or use a gear puller. I tap it gently with the socket about 50 times and it slowly works it's way off. Have never used a puller. The pulley has a woodruff key which may fall out so watch for it and save it. Pry the old seal out. Put the new seal in position and hold a small piece of 2x4 over it for protection and using a heavy sledge hammer, tap it into place till flat. Grease the seal lips and might as well grease the pulley as well. This will prevent it starting up dry. Position the pulley so that the woodruff key not be dislodged and tap gently into place. Tighten the crankshaft bolt to between 90-115 ft. lbs.

 

The woodruff key is half moon shape and the rounded part is in a similar hole in the crankshaft. The pulley has a long slot that allows it to slip on over the protruding half of the woodruff key.

 

The crank bolt is very tight. I use a long 27mm? socket with a johnson bar or ratchet with a small length of pipe over the handle for length. Raise the front end off the ground and put in 4th gear with the hand brake on. The bolt has to turn counter clockwise so let the ratchet hang down. It needs to swing towards the drivers tire so what I do is lay on my left side with legs under the front of the truck. Position yourself so you can kick backwards on the ratchet handle with your right foot. One very fast and hard kick will snap it loose. I understand you can set the ratchet handle against the passenger side frame and bump the engine with the starter. Sounds easier but have never tried it.  

[Leo92335]

I will order it and give it a try, thank you Mike,, you are awesome man!,,have a great night buddy 

[620slodat]

17 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

Position yourself so you can kick backwards on the ratchet handle with your right foot. One very fast and hard kick will snap it loose. I understand you can set the ratchet handle against the passenger side frame and bump the engine with the starter. Sounds easier but have never tried it.  

 

I have used the starter before, on a Toyota FJ40 with a straight 6. If my memory serves me correct the bolt was on with somewhere around 150 ft/lbs of torque. This works real good. You need to position the socket and long breaker bar so that it is almost on the frame, and make sure the socket is on securely. With just barely a bump on the key/starter the bolt will come loose. EVERYBODY needs to be out of the way first before bumping the starter though as there is a lot of energy in this method.

 

Don

Edited January 3, 2021 by 620slodat

[Leo92335]

I actually saw this scotty guy on YouTube use this method and looks very easy to use the power of the engine crankshaft to loosen it self,thanks Don 

[datzenmike]

 I have done this in a wrecking yard with the engine out and on the ground with nothing holding the crankshaft from spinning.  If hard and fast enough just the inertia of the crank and rods is enough to hold it. If you have a starter to use definitely try this.