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Leo92335

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Thanks Mike unfortunately the gasket it's been contaminated with oil and I'm getting a very minor leak right under my distributor thanks to this bastards at California datsun, I've called the bureau and they are handling him and after that I'm taking him to small claims court and I have videos of everything I've been fixing,,,,anyway even my oil dipstick is leaking  I've put some jb weld after cleaning really good with cleaning solvent ,what do you think Mike, will it last?

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17 hours ago, Leo92335 said:

Thanks Mike unfortunately the gasket it's been contaminated with oil and I'm getting a very minor leak right under my distributor thanks to this bastards at California datsun, I've called the bureau and they are handling him and after that I'm taking him to small claims court and I have videos of everything I've been fixing,,,,anyway even my oil dipstick is leaking  I've put some jb weld after cleaning really good with cleaning solvent ,what do you think Mike, will it last?

 

There is an O ring on the distributor shaft and there's a paper gasket to mount the distributor. Is it leaking down from there?

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The question was if jb weld around  the bottom of the oil dipstick would last because its leaking a little oil and my other leak it's on the timing cover and the engine block below the distributor mounting, but I don't want to mess with the timing cover ill just leave with it 

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Thanks Mike  ,looks like I have my leaks under control, but now my truck is getting harder and harder to start in the cold morning and once it gets hot its good for the rest of the day and it starts right up after the first start, but the problem is in the morning keeps cranking for like a minute before it starts and it's getting worse and worse, any ideas ?

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don't want to re read all the post buy what ignition you have? Points Pertronix or a Matchbox ignition

 

Like mike said if you drive this everyday then in morning pump the gas and pull the choke. If electric make sure the choke plate is closed. when warms up the plate should be open.

 

Only other thing could be a higher reisitance coil installed or ballast hooked up wrong if running points. Also point gap issues

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I'm running an electric pump with a  regulator at 2.7 lbs, manual choke Web carburetor about a year old so the choke butterfly seems fine, also running an electronic distributor the whole piece not a kit installed also I've noticed the electronic points inside the distributor is getting rusty by the gap area has a 4 point star and looks rusted a little,,,,,,I do have a pertronix performance coil and my regular old resistor, and when I try to pump gas it sounds like it chokes I assume because the electric pump, today I almost ran out of battery for so much cranking until it picks  up enough force to start the engine,,any ideas on possible causes 

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4 hours ago, Leo92335 said:

,,,,,,I do have a pertronix performance coil and my regular old resistor,

 

 

show photos of how you hooked this up?

WHY ???you get this coil? 

if this is a 3 ohm coil  Pertronix sells and you add the ballast in there its going to be harder to start!!!!!. is it a 3 ohm or a 1.5 ohm??????????????

the stock coil will be the correct Ohm reading of about 1.6ohms

 

 

B would go to the + side of the ballast where the blk wht wire goes in to it(ballast)

C goes to  minus side coil.

 

the rest stays the same on the coil, as there would be 2 wires most likely hooked up to the plus side. 1 wire is the ON and the Other the START wire 12volts

 

read carefully;

my drawing under neath is using a 510 color code but will be similar on your vehicle electrically. My 521 has 2 wires on the + side coil . I assume your truck will have this also. one is from the down side of the ballast and the other the HOT START.

 

you can make your set up btter by removing the resisitor and getting a Low ohm EI coil and work maybe better but since you got this NEW Pertronix coil I don't know what to tell you. The stock coil would have been better as its a 1.6 ohm and during start its bypassed and only have a 1.6 coil.

Your set up you have 3 ohm plus 1.6= 4.6 ohm when key is On But during START your reisitor is bypassed but still sees 3 ohms . so that what I think is going on.

 

so cheapest option right now put the stock coil back in its place of that Pertronix

 

 

 

 

pertronixstockcoilsetup.JPG

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Thanks banzai, I've bought the pertronix coil because I had the pertronix points on my old distributor and when California datsun rebuilt my engine they conned me into buying a new distributor like Mike's picture and that's how California datsun installed it, they left the old resistor too ,thanks for the diagram and I'm gonna start by replacing the old coil and see what happens 

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pertronix sells 2 coils if its a lower ohm coil then its fine but if a 3 ohm is the common one people get this might be the issue.

 

Im sure he charge  a lot of money for that distributor.

If he sold that dist might as well get the coil for that a low ohm .7 ohm coil that made for it. Or a stock 78/79 Datsun 620 coil .

 

but anyways don't get confused here just put the old one back in and see what happens.

 

 

stop throwing LOTS on money at this!!!!

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Freaking California datsun,,,I'm swapping the coils and I just found out they installed the red wire from the distributor to the negative coil and black from distributor to positive of coil,,,and it's been running like that,,,is there a way that they installed the electronic distributor backwards and still work?

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There are no 'points' on an EI distributor.

 

 

If coil wired backwards the spark will jump from ground to the plug tip. It'll work but.....

 

 

 

If you have an EI distributor you really should get rid of the old coil and ballast altogether and run an EI coil. This will give the intended higher voltage spark

 

 

Ex79Rqt.jpg

 

I'm not suggesting that you get the coil in the picture. Get a coil for a '79 620 truck or a '79 200sx. Has to have 0.75- 1.0 ohm primary resistance.

 

 

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Thank you  Mike and banzai for your input on the coil subject I will get  the e coil soon,I installed the old coil the same way it was the pertronix and truck starts,,,so i will find out tomorrow morning in the cold at 4 am if it starts better with the old coil, gnite fellas 

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The coil hooked up back wards on the Primary usually will still work as its just a wire coiled up to produce a magnectis field for the 2nd set of coil wire so when power is shut off the magnectic field collaspes in to the secondary winding and make it out to the spark plugs

 

 

Let us know how this works.

 

 

YOu could put the Pertronix  back in if you want. !!!! Just get it to TDC and line it up.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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If wired backwards the left hand rule applies to the magnetic field and spark is reversed jumping from ground strap to electrode tip. I think the ground strap erodes away much faster if this way. Should always be tip to ground strap.

 

Did California Datsun install the engine and wire it up??????

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Thanks guys, I did try to conect positive distributor to positive coil and negative distributor to negative coil but the truck didn't start so I switched the way it was and this morning it was a  easier for the truck to start ,i did have the 3 ohm installed due to a seller recommendation on Ebay i did buy the 3 ohm coil pertronix to match  the pertronix distributor kit  so I'm glad you guys told me to return to the stock coil, and yes California datsun installed the electronic distributor and they wired it too,,I will buy the Ecoil soon, by any chance you guys know the part number for the ecoil, I keep finding UF-4 but it doesn't mention e coil 

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just order for  78/79 Datsun any model car truck will work (Rockauto.com). or a MSD 2Blaster Red coil.   should be about .7 ohms in the specs

https://www.eastwood.com/msd-blaster-2-coil-high-performance-8202.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&msclkid=bd5bdcda257c16b81695bcc909fa3fbc

 

remember then you don't run the ballast after you put the EI coil in!!!!!!!

youll add a extra lug or tab on the + side coil   1 for the dist and 1 from the blk wht wire remove ballast)

maybe all that is needed is remove the ballast and use a jumper wire inbetween??? as maybe the 620 is like a 521 where the wire to the + side coil has the 2 wires already

 

 

If it works don't bother .

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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The Nissan part number for the EI coil is 22433-H7280 or 22433-H7285. This is '78 and up 620, S10 200sx, A10 HL510, 280z, early 280zx 810 and Maxima.

 

 

 

Pretty sure the Z series is equal but sold in pairs so the number doesn't jive. I've had a Z24 coil on my EI for years.

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