Jump to content

Timing


Leo92335

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 247
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

#3 looks perfect

#2 maybe burning a little oil

 

#1 and #4 look very lean. They shouldn't be white at all but tan like #3As the carb feeds them all equally they should all get the same mixture.

 

How many miles on them???

 

 

I'd be curious what the compression numbers are on 1 and 4

Link to comment

Side drafts have a barrel for each cylinder one or more could be richer or leaner than the other cylinders. The Hitachi down draft feeds the same mixture to all cylinders. So what would cause 1 and 4 to be so white indicating a severe lean mixture????? Looks like 2 and 3 are doing all the work.

Link to comment

Thanks guys, well the engine only struggles a little in the mornings to start but after it starts its great for the rest of the day it even starts after only a couple of engine cranks with no gas pedal, it's faster than my Toyota matrix and engine seems strongs when I'm driving,, so I guess I can live with it like banzai said about his black spark plugs,,,thanks again fellas 

Link to comment
12 minutes ago, Leo92335 said:

I have the gap at 30 so it should be 44 ?

 

Split the difference make it 0.035"-0.040". The EI has a stronger more energetic spark that the points never did. Points are usually 0.032" and high output ignitions more like 0.040". I think some GM engines are 0.060"

Link to comment
3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I would put plugs 2 &3   in 1 &4 spot when you get the new coil and run it for awhile then see what happens. Otherwise just live with it. My yellow 510 with 44s they were BLACK but car seemed fine and ran it 17 years that way.till I sold it and still running

 

I think L16 were around 140 anyways. really the other 3 cylinder excedded expectation

Thanks banzai that's good to hear

Link to comment
10 hours ago, Leo92335 said:

Can I  bypass the ballast and the same cable from the ballast jump it to the same side of the coil?,,,,and then remove the ballast 

just make a wire same length as the ballast  pull the wires on the end of ballast and replace with the short wire!!!!!

 

 the B will go to the + side coil. so you might need to buy a male lug with 2 ends to go on the + side coil

C goes to minus side and you can remove the point wire and labol and tuck it out of the way.

Link to comment

Thanks banzai and Mike for your help, I just installed the new coil and I did notice a smoothness in the engine, the cable before ballast was long enough to reach the new coil so I just put everything the way it was with out the ballast and it turned on with out the ballast, yay,,thanks again fellas I'm sure good karma is on your way 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
On 1/27/2021 at 11:26 AM, datzenmike said:

Does the distributor look exactly like this one???

 

QWZkhvg.jpg

Hey Mike in case I lost touch with you i would like the info of the distributor in case I need one on the future, where did you buy the distributor , what's the part number?

Link to comment

They all work the same but depending on year and vehicle, manual/ auto, state, etc there were differences in mechanical and vacuum advance.

 

A '79 200sx non California is..... 22100-W5801

 

 

There are at least 8 '79 EI 200sx distributors.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.