Leo92335 Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 Hello Mike I taking care of the crankshaft seal but I've bought 3 from different places and I can't find the right one by any chance you have a link where I can purchase the crankshaft seal for my 1973 datsun 620 L16? Quote Link to comment
Leo92335 Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 The front one Quote Link to comment
Leo92335 Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 I got this part from parts geek ,I don't think the crankshaft seal suppose to have a metal ring attached to the rubber seal like the pinion seal ,can you look at the pictures because I can't install it through the front of the engine if it has a metal Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 18, 2021 Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 Looks right. It 'hammers' on from the front. Harder to do if the timing cover is on and the crankshaft snout is sticking out. You'll need something that covers the seal but fits over the end of the crankshaft that can bear on it evenly. Such as a block of wood with a large hole. Quote Link to comment
Leo92335 Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 So the metal part can stick out? Because thru the front only fits the rubber seal Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 18, 2021 Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 You have it backwards. Hold it over the black one that is already installed, it should be the same size. If larger it's the wrong seal. It will make more sense when the old one is pried out. Test fit it over the pulley end. The seal should just slip on. Quote Link to comment
Leo92335 Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 Ok then it's the wrong seal because the metal is too big and it doesn't fit metal first also shows the spring outside and it suppose to be inside the engine,,,,but the bad thing is that even at auto zone they're selling the same part number 710255 ,and the ones I've bought from Amazon and napa are wrong too,,,, Quote Link to comment
Leo92335 Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 Ok I found another one on Ebay that looks the same, thanks Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 18, 2021 Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 L16/18/20B/Z20/Z22 and Z24..... 13042-73000 13042-A3500 13042-A3510 13042-A8600........ all the same Nissan part. Last used on the '88 Hardbody and Pathfinder Z24i Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted January 19, 2021 Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 13042-A8600 is still available through your local Nissan Dealer. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 19, 2021 Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 Felpro fronts cover kits have them cant believe this is that hard to find Quote Link to comment
Leo92335 Posted January 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2021 Thanks guys for the info, I found a KP 13042A8600 on Amazon seems the brand is KP and the description is crankshaft seal but there's no picture available, do you guys think this is it? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 20, 2021 Report Share Posted January 20, 2021 Could be front or maybe back. Check the Nissan dealer. Quote Link to comment
debbheff@gmail.com Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 The front seal from the felpro kit is correct, just installed one, however the timing cover gaskets are thicker than the original which leads to a number of install problems including not allowing the bolts holes in the timing cover to line up with the flange holes in the front of the head. long story short, those gaskets caused me no end of trouble trying to install the timing cover. now i have to buy a new timing cover set install a new head gasket and possibly have the timing cover surfaced. Quote Link to comment
Leo92335 Posted January 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 Hello debbheff I just finished installing the correct one as we speak, turns out parts geek has different ones for the same truck, makes no sense right?,anyway on my second try from them on another listing they got it right, so I just installed the pulley and I'm about to torque it and put everything back, hopefully no more leaks, here's the picture of the correct one for my 1973 datsun 620 with the L16 motor, thanks to mike, banzai,kelmo,you,and those that have reply,you guys are great for sharing your knowledge. Quote Link to comment
Leo92335 Posted January 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 1 hour ago, debbheff@gmail.com said: The front seal from the felpro kit is correct, just installed one, however the timing cover gaskets are thicker than the original which leads to a number of install problems including not allowing the bolts holes in the timing cover to line up with the flange holes in the front of the head. long story short, those gaskets caused me no end of trouble trying to install the timing cover. now i have to buy a new timing cover set install a new head gasket and possibly have the timing cover surfaced. Hey buddy, not sure why the need to mess with the timing cover because you don't need to, the front crankshaft seal comes off just by removing the pulley and installing the new one, but I wish you the best ,some times people like banzai gives wrong advice because you don't need a kit for the crankshaft seal Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 You can slip the timing cover off and change it without removing the head. The front part of the head gasket only seals in vapors and oil splash. RTV on both side of the old head gasket will take care of that. Remove the front oil pan bolts into the timing cover and loosen 3 or 4 down each side and the timing cover can be pulled out forward. Clean block and timing cover and istal new gasket with a dab of RTV on the two bottom corners where oil pan, block and timing cover meet and the two top corners where head, block and timing cover meet. Quote Link to comment
debbheff@gmail.com Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 yeh, actually done it several times bmw's datsuns no problems. quick story how i got here, truck sitting since 97, it actually started so i thougtht no problems. got it home began draining fluids and noted no fluid came out of the rear drain plug for the block until i poked around and it started to drain indicating some corrosion,. pulled the heater hose diverter and it was so corroded part of it is missing, pulled the water pump and so corroded three vanes were missing now rust, in a sludgy material. timing cover so corroded there is a hole between passages. I purchased a used timing cover from a member cleaned it up and began install, this time, guess it was karma for something. loop end of head gasket kept pinching and would not fully slide onto the timing chain cover. To do this job a gasket need to be make to provide a seal at the bottom of the timing cover and the oil pan, initially i thought the gasket i made was too thick so i made another out of stock that about half the thickness. that didnt work. I ended up cutting off the loop end of the head gasket in hopes of installing it on the timing cover and then sliding it on. again didnt work. only a couple of things i can figure, the oil pan gasket is thinner than the original or the original is overtorqued reducing the distance between the oil pan and the bottom of the head or a really remote possiblilty, the block has been previously decked during a rebuild and that reduced the distance. i checked the length of the timing chain covers, old vs new and its the same. and yes all the gasket material has been removed from the mating surfaces. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 The timing cover has two alignment dowels so it pushes on in the same place and the thickness of the oil pan has no effect on the top. It's just tight. If the top of the head gasket is cut away, degrease with brake or carburetor cleaner so there's no oil and install the timing cover without it, then squeeze some RTV from a tube into the gap and let cure. The head gasket in this area only have to contain oil spray and vapors. Clean and apply a smear of RTV on both sides of the oil pan gasket as well. Torque both in place and wipe away any mess. Quote Link to comment
debbheff@gmail.com Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 I did a dry fit this morning, pushed the timing cover all the way on to the pins and measured the distance between the top and head gasket surface and the botton and oil pan surface. top measrement around .029 bottom measuremtent less than .010 , old head gasket material i removed approx .049 +-. No wonder the cover wouldnt push past the head gasket material. Something definitely amiss here. (no head gasket because i had cut it out). looked at the mating surface of the oil pan and the block and noted red rtv and what appears to be synthetic gasket much thinner than a cork gasket. It may be time to make a top gasket from stock material and a bottom gasket out of thin stock material, a bit of rtv and button it up. hmmm something just occured to me, wonder how this mishmash of gaskets and less than optimal clearances affect the fitment of the crankshaft seal and the nose of the crank at the front of the timing cover. Rats, crap like this makes me crazier. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 The timing cover has alignment dowels. One on each side that fit into the block. It can only go on in the correct place. See those two nubs sticking out where the water pump goes? Well there are two like it one on each side on the back of the timing cover. Quote Link to comment
debbheff@gmail.com Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 Fortunately those locating pins are still on the block, with the reservations i'm beginning to have about the previous build i guess i should be thankful theyre there. still trying to figure out the clearance issues with the cover and the bottom of the head the gasket surface of the oil pan. I'll be taking your advice and using rtv on the head/cover and the oil pan/cover interfaces. I still have a compression issue that hopefully will solve itself once i get it started l and up to operating temp. hoping its a stuck ring. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 Those 'pins' should be in the timing cover not the block. Have a look at the holes in the timing cover maybe they are oval now. Quote Link to comment
debbheff@gmail.com Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 Are speaking of the water pump locating pins or the timing cover locating pins. the timing cover locating pins are in the block in this l16 motor, not sure about the water pump pins actually havnt paid attention to those because ive been concentrating on the timing cover. may be the pins remained in the block, I'll check tomorrow and will also check to see if the locating pin holes are not ovaled. thanks for the heads up 1 Quote Link to comment
Leo92335 Posted January 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 Anybody know the torque for the bolts on the timing cover I'm looking specifically the one under and above the distributor but the other ones will help too, ,when They rebuilt my engine they forgot that bolt right under the distributor and I have like a very minimal leak on the gasket even after I installed the bolt Quote Link to comment
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