mainer311 Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 Mike, that’s exactly what I said, to use coppers. If you have dissimilar materials on both sides, obviously the softer material is going to erode quicker. On the iridium plugs, they put an iridium button on the ground strap to prevent erosion on that side. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 15, 2020 Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 Ahhh. So never need file an iridium. 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 I will definitely stick to the copper plugs but am stoked to finally have the clarification! I got the dowel for the cam! When putting in the timing chain it always seems half a tooth off from TC, I had to rotate the crank a smidge to get them to line up (please check out photos). I'm thinking that since everything is aligned properly, as long as the chain is properly syncing the cam to the crank I'm good to go, but since I have this thread going it doesn't hurt to throw it up here for some advice. Also kinda strange that the OSK cam gear doesn't have the notches. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Why are you trying to time the gears with out the hydraulic tensioner and the chain guides. This is not how you time the gears. Read up on it it will help you immensely! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Strictly speaking you don't have to have the tensioner or guides on to install the chain. Top and bottom sprockets have a dimple and the chain has bright links. Line them up to each other. If no bright links count 42 links between dimples if L16/18 and 44 if L20B. There are 38 for a Z20/22 and 40 for a Z24. 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Thanks!! I'm doing a full rebuild and been using this book as my bible and I've found it to be thorough and fantastic! It indicates to put the chain on before the guides and tensioners. My dowel is lined up to the notch, but I'm worried that the crank seems off just a hair. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 If the dimples and the bright links are aligned, doesn't matter where the crank is, maybe it or the cam got bumped. They will always be 38 links apart. 2 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Thanks, Mike! Woo!!! She's almost come together! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Turn the crank slightly clockwise to tighten the left side with the links and this will also move any slack to the aptly named 'slack side'. The driver's, or left side, is the tight or tension side, so that rubber coated guide sits just against the chain to support it. The right, or slack side has a tensioner, push it all the way into it's holder and hold and adjust the other rubber coated guide as far to the driver's side as you can and tighten in place, release the tensioner. I measured a tensioner diameter once and worked out the area the oil pressure pushes against. I came up with 7-8 pounds pushing on the chain at 50 PSI oil pressure. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 yes one might have to rotate the crank or cam to get the links to line up as you say a half tooth off. Long as the brite links line up on the dimple its correct. L20s most people put on cam position 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 That book really is a godsend. Using it for rebuilding my L20B as well. Well that book and the old farts here on Ratsun combine to make a godsend. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 (edited) Anybody got a cherry picker in the Seattle area? I'm just about finished with this one! Edited April 23, 2020 by Suntzuzuki 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Fuck yeah! Looks just like mine on the same stand. 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 30 minutes ago, d.p said: Fuck yeah! Looks just like mine on the same stand. Yep! Harbor Freight cheapie! 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 (edited) i WOULD GET A CENTER STUD AT LEAST FOR THE EXHAUST. I see you have studs on the ends I also got the top row with studs also. I had used the stock bolts vut ever time oI war strecting out the threads so I went with studs to keep from making them go bad. yes sometime they come out if the nut rust on there but I put antiseize on everthing now(esp the waterpump bolts and thermostat bolts as they always rust and break the bolts and then need a new housing for the stat Edited April 23, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 He's right, Install Qty 7 studs for the manifolds, and leave the 4 top holes open for regular bolts. Dorman sells 10-packs of studs for cheap. 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 29 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: i WOULD GET A CENTER STUD AT LEAST FOR THE EXHAUST. Really good point. I bed I can get those on line too. I dunno if Tacoma Screw is open these days. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 (edited) Edit: Sorry, that last part number was for 5/16. You need M8x1.25. Dorman #03411 Edited April 23, 2020 by mainer311 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 One the Z20 I am doing for my king cab 720 I installed regular studs on the Intake side but with the world shut down all I could get was long allen set screws which I think I will like better than studs for the simple reason I can put allen wrench in the end if I have one wanting to turn out with the nut. Removal of the would be easier to to mill the intake and exhaust sides of the head. Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 shoot! I already ordered. That's ok tho, I'll order the correct ones and return the others. Thanks!! 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 You prime the oil pump???????? 1 Quote Link to comment
Z24gma Posted May 30, 2020 Report Share Posted May 30, 2020 I just put in a new dowel pin into camshaft and I cannot get the sprocket back on. Im wondering if the timing belt tensioner came out. How would I know? I used a piece of wood (cut like my book said) to hold timing chain. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 30, 2020 Report Share Posted May 30, 2020 Some times the dowel is just slightly off to the side and out of alignment, so rotate the cam back and forth slightly. If the tensioner is out the sprocket won't reach the cam. If you can get the sprocket up onto the cam, just barely, put the bolt in and tighten it. This will force the sprocket up farther and into place. Be sure the pin lines up by rocking the cam. 1 Quote Link to comment
Z24gma Posted May 30, 2020 Report Share Posted May 30, 2020 Thanks I’ll give it another go. 1 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.