Missing cam shaft dowel

[Suntzuzuki]

I got my head back from the machine shop and have been assembling my engine, admittedly it stayed in the garage for about 8 months until I got laid off for Corona, now I'm back to building it.

 

When I got the head back I didn't realize the cam timing dowel had been taken out! 

 

I was hoping you knew what diameter and length dowel I need to put in there. Last thing I need is to put something improper in there that has a tiny little rattle and makes my timing all wonky until I blow a valve.

 

Thanks and stay safe out there, everyone!!

[datzenmike]

I would have taken the cam out as well as rockers, anything not needed.

 

It sticks out 0.225" but the cam sprocket holes go all the way through so if longer shouldn't matter. It's 0.040"  0.24" diameter. I have a head and cam sitting beside me to measure.

[Crashtd420]

32 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I would have taken the cam out as well as rockers, anything not needed.

 

It sticks out 0.225" but the cam sprocket holes go all the way through so if longer shouldn't matter. It's 0.040" diameter. I have a head and cam sitting beside me to measure.

Mike check that diameter again....

.040 is kind of small....

I just measured a spare cam and got 

.236 or 6mm.... 

 

Suntzuki make sure you add the depth of the hole in the cam to Mike's measurement... you'll likely need something about 1/2 long....

[datzenmike]

F yeah. O.24". Good catch, missed the 2

[Suntzuzuki]

Yeah I SO wish I had done that! Something so simple but so crucial, and now I'm stopped until I get one. Hoping I can get one at Tacoma Screw or some specialty hardware store...if they're even open at this time.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I never seen them come out.why would a person pull it out!????

[banzai510(hainz)]

Best place in Seattle to have work done it AutosportSeattle

guy names Terri

Edited April 14, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[Crashtd420]

Watch out for quality on the dowel pin....

I would think you might want something hardened but I'm not 100% sure.... 

But you can find anything from a hardened pin to something cheap to hold up a shelf....

 

Also you could check the fit with a 6mm drill bit.... 

[Suntzuzuki]

3 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Best place in Seattle to have work done it AutosportSeattle

guy names Terri

That's where I had it done! I have an l20 cam here but I can't get the pin out. I tried heating it, PB Blaster over night, etc. It won't come out.

 

I called Autosport and they're going to check for me. It does seem odd that the pin is out...I have no idea how the hell that happened.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Is this a new cam?

maybe just use the L20 cam with all the hardwear

[Crashtd420]

Can you use the L20 cam?

1 minute ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Is this a new cam?

maybe just use the L20 cam with all the hardwear

You beat me by a few seconds.  .

Had same thought 

[Suntzuzuki]

No the cam is off a seized engine and looks worse for wear. What a weird issue to have!!!

[Crashtd420]

nissan part 13032-18000

 

Maybe Mike can verify but looks like the pin is available through nissan....

I looked up an L16 and the L20b cam same part number

[Crashtd420]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/372846220478

 

 

[datzenmike]

Verified.

[Suntzuzuki]

Wow! Thank you so much!! Ordered.

[Suntzuzuki]

Out of curiosity, and I know this thread is no taking a turn,, but what's your opinion on iridium vs. standard plugs?

[banzai510(hainz)]

It makes you feel better cause you spent more money.

i myself have never bought new plugs In 15yrs.i sand blast mine if the ground part is still good

bp5 bp6 NGK or Nippondenso standard are the way to go in 90% of cases

Edited April 14, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[Crashtd420]

4 minutes ago, Suntzuzuki said:

Out of curiosity, and I know this thread is no taking a turn,, but what's your opinion on iridium vs. standard plugs?

Go with standard ngk....

 

[Crashtd420]

I have also been told not to use the r type which stands for resistor...

Same with the p which is for projected tip...

I would run a straight b6es plug ( I think that's the right heat range) .... if electronic ignition you can do the b6es-11,  come set with a wider gap....

[banzai510(hainz)]

Put antiseize on the threads

[datzenmike]

I know I bought new NGKs for my truck but that was mid '90s. Always coming across old heads or complete engines. If they look good, I swap them. Have never bought new wires and have several good used NGK sets including those blue ones for a 280zx. The long ones you can run around the front of the valve cover and look nice.

 

Plugs are plugs. If iridium they are for modern engines with high output coils so I wouldn't run on anything less that an EI distributor. I think they last longer... NGK says 40K 50K under good conditions 60K on an unmodified engine but 100k is possible. I checked and iridium plugs are about 50% more to buy. Keep in mind the tip may not wear out but the ground straps are all the same. Standard plugs last up to 20K so last 2-3 time longer maybe more.

[mainer311]

There is so much misinformation here, it’s not even funny. Iridium plugs also have an iridium conductor on the bottom of the ground tab. They’re not all the same ground tabs. Auto manufacturers use them as OEM because their lifespan is tremendous. Nissan recommends a change interval of 100k miles for the Iridium IX plugs, which come stock in most modern engines.

 

For these old Datsuns, which don’t see many miles anyway, just run NGK coppers.

 

You can run resistor or non-resistor, it doesn’t really matter, and you won’t see any performance difference. The resistor version suppresses EMI noise that could interfere with sensitive electronics. I’ve even used the projected tip version, which places the spark closer to the center of the cylinder. They claim it helps with the wave front and combustion propagation, but who knows.

 

BR6ES, B6ES, BR7ES, B7ES are all fine.

Edited April 15, 2020 by mainer311

[d.p]

13 hours ago, mainer311 said:

There is so much misinformation here, it’s not even funny.

 

Would it be Ratsun if it wasn't filled with misinformation?  

[datzenmike]

14 hours ago, mainer311 said:

  Iridium plugs also have an iridium conductor on the bottom of the ground tab. They’re not all the same ground tabs.

 

What does this mean? That the ground strap doesn't wear out? It's usually the center electrode that erodes away faster and the strap not so much. All the NGK info is from their site. Iridium MAY last 100k but NGK does not say so. Change interval is not the same as checking gap interval. I have no idea what Nissan uses for plugs but it would be in a newer engine and might last 100k but it sure isn't in an old Datsun with carburetor and points. For those get the cheapest NGK there is.