LilDotty74 Posted April 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 Cleaned em up 2 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 Refurbished 3 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 Before after 1 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 Custom cab storage I made from an old first aid kit 1 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 Took dash out for epoxy fill and some custom switch panels, new wire harness coming in on Friday should be easier to install now 1 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2020 After a lot of sanding, cleaning and rust removal it looks a lot better sealed all holes and put a new coat on liner on the firewall and floor panels 2 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Filler applied just one more bondo fill and and some sanding she’s looking good Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Wire harness came in the mail today, next few days should be fun. Went with a 21 circuit 18 fuse Chevy mopar universal looks great, awesome quality and every wire is labeled and extra long length definitely recommended 100$ eBay Old New Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Added an electric fuel pump need to make a custom block off plate Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Chevy should fit. Also the ones used on the Z20 and Z22 series engines in the 720 and the S110200sx Mount pump as close to tank as you can. Pumps suck at sucking but no upper limit for pressure. It'll be quieter back there and don't forget to add an interrupter switch for theft protection. 1 Quote Link to comment
gene knight Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 (edited) LilDotty74 what is the part# for carrier bearing? and where did you get it from? also i have a plethora of 620 parts and also are you gonna use/keep the fiberglass shell Edited April 18, 2020 by gene knight 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 Gene in all of Ratsun only one member (metalmonkey) has claimed a verified bad carrier bearing. They almost never go bad, however the rubber doughnut clamped around the driveshaft DOES rot away. This is what supports the driveshaft and the bearing just turns with no load on it. Once the rubber doughnut starts to deteriorate the driveshaft starts to become unstable. It vibrates under load or thumps around the cage that contains it. Most people replace it but it's really the rubber isolater ring that's the problem. I wrapped a long inch and a half strip of conveyor belt around the driveshaft till it was a tight fit in the clamp. I meant to fix it later but it worked so well it was on there for years. It was suggested that several old bicycle inner tubes would also work. 3 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2020 On 4/18/2020 at 12:31 PM, gene knight said: LilDotty74 what is the part# for carrier bearing? and where did you get it from? also i have a plethora of 620 parts and also are you gonna use/keep the fiberglass shell The camper ? I can get the part number if you’d like, he is right tho my actual baring was in great condition just so happens you can’t buy them separate. I still have the box around here somewhere so let me know ! 1 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 All mounted up and wires ran just need to test, solder and look now 3 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Mounted poppers and Solenoids just need to connect the wires but they work great Quote Link to comment
Jersey Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 How many lbs of pull on the solenoid? Do you think the angle of the cable might cause trouble down the road? 1 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 33 minutes ago, Jersey said: How many lbs of pull on the solenoid? Do you think the angle of the cable might cause trouble down the road? 35 pounds of pull. I don’t think it will unless the cable clamps come loose, think I’m going to reinforce them with extra clamps There are two ways to connect to the door to pull the latch Open, one is to simply connect to the inner door handle latch on the inside of the door, since my door handles are shaved I had the assembly for the outer handles still in, so I connected it to those and made them independent of each other. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jersey Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 (edited) 20 hours ago, LilDotty74 said: 35 pounds of pull. I don’t think it will unless the cable clamps come loose, think I’m going to reinforce them with extra clamps There are two ways to connect to the door to pull the latch Open, one is to simply connect to the inner door handle latch on the inside of the door, since my door handles are shaved I had the assembly for the outer handles still in, so I connected it to those and made them independent of each other. Good call on using the outer door handle. Correct me if I’m wrong, if you use the inner handle release, when you activate the solenoid it would physically throw the inside door handle too...? As for the cables, with those I worry about stretch and fray...It’s just that angle, too, that concerns me...Also, I would imagine that you’re not getting a true 35 lb pull at that angle. If I may suggest an idea, what if you pivot the solenoid 45 degrees off of the left bolt? Then run the cable over to a bracket where that phillips head screw is, and use that as your fulcrum point, and then run a cable straight up from the bracket to the door release mechanism. This way, there’s less stress on the cables. Edited April 22, 2020 by Jersey 1 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 8 hours ago, Jersey said: Good call on using the outer door handle. Correct me if I’m wrong, if you use the inner handle release, when you activate the solenoid it would physically throw the inside door handle too...? As for the cables, with those I worry about stretch and fray...It’s just that angle, too, that concerns me...Also, I would imagine that you’ll not getting a true 35 lb pull at that angle. If I may suggest an idea, what if you pivot the solenoid 45 degrees off of the left bolt? Then run the cable over to a bracket where that phillips head screw is, and use that as your fulcrum point, and then run a cable straight up from the bracket to the door release mechanism. This way, there’s less stress on the cables. That’s actually a good idea just to make sure of a straight pull and less stress on cables 1 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 New msd plugs need to get me an electric distributor 1 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 5 hours ago, Jersey said: Cool wires! Hope so 160 bucks! Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Block off plate all mounted up 1 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Added a back up alarm beep beep 1 Quote Link to comment
LilDotty74 Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Old and new switched to a Chevy one plug had to cut the mount will post pics 1 Quote Link to comment
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