Nana Spec 69' 510

[slowlearner]

Right... so I'm sposed to have 2 weeks of leave from tuesday... and... today they locked us down for two weeks. Hmmm. I guess I've still got plenty to do on the car. I might need to order some parts in the post. 

[Motorvated]

2 hours ago, slowlearner said:

Right... so I'm sposed to have 2 weeks of leave from tuesday... and... today they locked us down for two weeks. Hmmm. I guess I've still got plenty to do on the car. I might need to order some parts in the post. 

I wish! I still need to go into work during lockdown. at least I get to see your progress on my lunch breaks 😄

[slowlearner]

I was really planning to have 2 weeks off, but yay... with lockdown I'll only be taking 6 days. 😞

 

On the upside, I have a whole week to mess around in the shed... and I am. My no.1 thing was to get the coil packs mounted. I was hoping to mount them on the strut tower, but heck. Wouldn't you know it, there was a master cylinder in the way. So why not mount it on the rocker cover, coz these guys are...

 

Nissan / Datsun Coil on Plug Mounting Bracket | OneSix Industries

 

Here's mine. On the bench...

 

 

On the car...

 

 

Next job was to get the MAP and Flexfuel sensors mounted...

 

 

Yes, that's a 1 bar MAP sensor. I can change it if I get boost.

 

 

I also discovered where I'll be putting my EFI pressure regulator. One of the bolts on the firewall for the Datsun throttle linkage will hold it up nicely. 🙂

 

And my intake hose arrive. It fits so nicely over the end of the airbox intake duct!

 

 

Overall, I reckon I'm making progress. 🙂 

[slowlearner]

After a bit more stuffing around. I was finally able to put this altogether today....

 

 

 

Here's the complete intake minus the TB. I went to pick up some pipe to do that today but was 15min late and the exhaust shop was closed. 😞

 

For some reason, the whole thing reminds me of an elephant. 🙂 I'm still making up my mind if I want the air filter inside the airbox or completely separate.

 

 

On the back of the airbox I have three fittings. Two for vacuum (MAP sensor and fuel pres reg). One for oil vapour, but I think I'll stuff my inlet air temp sensor in it. 😉

 

 

My only abiding concern is whether the injector rail will leak around the O-rings. Here's hoping and praying it won't. I have some flexibility in where it is if I need to jiggle things around a bit. I can trim or shim to get it right. 

Edited June 30, 2021 by slowlearner

[slowlearner]

Double post...

Edited June 30, 2021 by slowlearner
double post

[slowlearner]

I spent the afternoon making this throttle body adapter today. It's made of offcuts. I'm using a holden/buick V6, 70mm TB.

 

 

 

I've tapped all the holes in this. A practice I've taken up to save the need for nuts in weird places and more than one hand to do bolts up properly. I put the whole elephant together again and then I realized... Oh uh... it's a bit long. 😞

 

 

Various measurements and curse words later, I remembered once more how small a 510 engine bay is. The throttle body will mount hard up against the airbox if I trim the adapter. However, then there's no room left for an air filter. I could run the filter in the airbox, but I get the impression that's a fail. So I think what's required is to put a 90 deg hose on the airbox and point the TB and filter down behind the passenger (or driver in the northern hemisphere) side headlights. My other challenge is that buick had the throttle cable running off the front side of the TB rather than like usual. So I'm really tempted to put the TB on backwards instead. There are various silicon adaptors that will make that easy enough. I should stop stuffing around and just order something. Which brings me to what turned up today...

 

 

I was pretty pleased when I ripped open the brown paper and found this. I'd forgotten it was coming. So this will keep me busy for the next few days. In other news, I've been trying to sort out where to put the ECU inside the car. I'm procrastinating of course. I just want to get the best spot possible so the loom is working best. That means over-thinking it completely. 🙄

 

I also sorted out a clutch linkage problem today. Man I love the local steel shop! 🤓

 

[slowlearner]

Last bit of stuff I got done during my hols was fiddling with tank a bit. The good news is it's mostly pretty clean...

 

 

 

Can't tell you how relieved I was to find factory fresh steel inside the tank. The only crusty bit that came out was this...

 

 

That's genuine classic rally car dirt and fuel varnish! Limited edition stuff right there! The inside of the collection pot is similarly clean...

 

 

I would have treated the tank with the Caswell sealer by now, but we've had some cold weather (by aussie standards) and it tells me not to use it under 70degF. It hasn't even been that warm inside our house, let alone the shed. So it can wait a few days till it warms up. I had a similar issue with the JB Weld. Without enough head it stayed tacky for a few days. Even leaving it heated on the slow combustion stove didn't help. Only warm sunlit did the trick. I really don't want a repeat of that on the fuel tank.

[slowlearner]

Hasn't been much driving happening recently. We're 8 weeks into lockdown and it's not a lot of fun. However, I got Nana through the yearly inspection again last week with Stew. He also picked up an issue with the clutch so that was good. Other than that, I've been procrastinating over the loom. I've stripped out the wires I don't need (although I tucked the cam ref wires away for later on if I want them). Then I got the loom in the car and lengthened some wires.

 

 

 

 

I pulled the loom back out of the car to lay it out and try to group the wires into connectors. I still have to run the grounds for all the plugs. Turns out I mistook the flex for the fuel pump wire. That's fixed now.

 

 

 

 

 

[Lockleaf]

A cheap way to loom wire and still look pretty nice is to do a two layer wrap with cheap electrical tape.  Wrap the first layer inside out, so the sticky faces outward.  Then wrap the second layer normally, so you are sticking sticky side to sticky side.  This makes a snug fit vinyl tube you can still move wires inside of, and if you have to get back in to, there isn't any of that disgusting black goo all over everything.  I'm too cheap for nice harness tape, so I've been doing it this way for a few years and it works great.

[slowlearner]

Had a big day in the shed today. I was keen on getting all the plugs on the look. At the same time, I was terrified of pinning plugs. I've never pinned plugs til today, so I was very hesitant about getting it wrong. So I started with an EV1. I had another 4 spares, so I figured I could easily replace one if I needed to.

 

 

Of course, ten minutes later, I needed to de-pin it. I couldn't find any tools locally so I had to make some out of fencing wire.

 

 

I've had a good day and I got all the plugs on the loom.

 

 

I did have some dramas with the oil temp/pres sensor connector. I struggled to unlock it. In the end, I discovered there's a lock that slides across. 

 

 

Having got all the wires seated, I can't get it to lock now. I don't know what the issue is, so I'm going to leave it overnight and come back to it later. It's this sensor...

 

145PSI (10Bar) Bosch Pressure & Temperature Sensor - Raceworks

 

Tonight, I found this guy hiding in my bin...

 

 

 

Edited August 19, 2021 by slowlearner

[slowlearner]

Time to work out my fuse/relay box. I'm using these relays...

 

https://www.amazon.com/Song-Chuan-301-1A-C-R1-U03-12VDC-Micro/dp/B075MZ26DD

 

Step 1 was to draw up a diagram so I don't screw it up. If you happen to notice I've done something wrong here feel free to harangue me!

 

 

[Lockleaf]

Looking at your diagram, I'm not sure you have all the grounds you need for both relays to operate. This is a random wiring diagram I pulled from the internet for 4 pin relays.  Whatever the shape of the relay, any 4 pin should work this way



85/86 = one circuit with power in and power out (direct to ground usually).

87/30 = one cirucit with power in and power out (power out to the accessory(s) you want to run via the relay.

 

You have R2 85 mapped to "ECU/Fuel Pump".  This will work if you plan the relay to get to ground directly through those, or on the same ground as those.  However, those two items will be routed through the low power side of the relay, not the high power.  If you want them routed through the relays, you will want those routed through an 87 pin.

So you may not have any issues, just want to be sure you looked at the whole picture and had them setup in the manner you intended.

[slowlearner]

On 8/26/2021 at 2:42 AM, Lockleaf said:

Looking at your diagram, I'm not sure you have all the grounds you need for both relays to operate. This is a random wiring diagram I pulled from the internet for 4 pin relays.  Whatever the shape of the relay, any 4 pin should work this way



85/86 = one circuit with power in and power out (direct to ground usually).

87/30 = one cirucit with power in and power out (power out to the accessory(s) you want to run via the relay.

 

You have R2 85 mapped to "ECU/Fuel Pump".  This will work if you plan the relay to get to ground directly through those, or on the same ground as those.  However, those two items will be routed through the low power side of the relay, not the high power.  If you want them routed through the relays, you will want those routed through an 87 pin.

So you may not have any issues, just want to be sure you looked at the whole picture and had them setup in the manner you intended.

 

Thanks for that. 🙂

 

I'm following the instructions for the microsquirt. It uses the ground to switch the fuel pump. But I'll keep that in mind. 

[slowlearner]

I spent half the day working on the car today. Pulling the radiator and the thermostat housing. Cleaning out the fuel tank and putting the liner kit in it... The tank liner didn't work properly. 😞 Basically it seems like the weather was too cold (23degC) so the epoxy was too thick. That was after I waited for warm weather and followed the instructions to a T. I think I'm gonna just run E10 and hope for the best.

 

After that, the thermostat housing leaked and I had to pull it off and try again. Hopefully it won't leak this time. However, I did get the fan removed and a thermo fan ordered. Coz buying parts is the same as doing things, right?

[datzenmike]

23 is rather mild to warm it should be within range.

 

 

Sheet of glass and some 180 grit sand paper makes it all better. Probably a sheet of paper would work for a gasket.

[slowlearner]

Yeah, I ended up sanding the head side of the housing. Hopefully that does the trick. My RTV sealant was kinda old too, so maybe that didn't help.

[slowlearner]

So apparently 6yo, half slime RTV doesn't seal properly. And I also discovered the newer temperature sensor I had wasn't right for my stock temperature gauge, which I want to keep. So the thermostat housing came off again. A proper gasket and some new sealant. I also took the opportunity to measure the resistance of the efi coolant sensor for the ECU. 

 

[slowlearner]

Waiting for some tape to come in so I can finish my loom. In the mean time, I'm trying to get little things done. So having removed the factory fan, I was able to finally install the crank sensor and 36-1 wheel. I still need to time the wheel but I need to get the loom finished before I can hook up the ECU to do that.

 

 

 

[slowlearner]

Day off today. In between weeding, walking, making pizza dough and hanging with my family (we're all still in lockdown) I got to work on the fan. I bought this 9" unit after measuring and procrastinating for a week. It just fits on the carb/exhaust side of my chinese ebay aluminium radiator.

 

 

Materials are a little scarce atm but I put this old sign away when the church was throwing it out. It's 2mm steel, so overkill, but free... and I like the patina. 🙂

 

 

I wanted to fold the edges of the panel over to make some rigidity, but I don't have a panel break and I tried with some clamps and a steel bar. No cigar. So I ended up adding two strips of alloy channel (from my junk metal pile) and tying more of the fan into the panel.

 

 

I am a pastor, so I had to laugh when I saw it finished and those words on the inside somewhat visible. I also found some rubber strip in my box of hoses and junk. Here it is installed...

 

 

 

Of course, when I took these pics I realized the fan was on upside down, but all fixed now. I have just enough room to get belt in between the pulley and the fan. Squeezy!

 

 

Just have to wire it into the ECU now.

Edited September 9, 2021 by slowlearner

[datzenmike]

 

You've blocked off most of the flow of air getting through by vehicle speed alone. This fan will be on way more than it needs to and I doubt it will move as much air as the stock fan so I would hazard a guess that you will have cooling problems. I would leave the right side open. My rad set up is similar with two Subaru fans. One like yours, the other re-wired to push and mounted on the front right as the pulley is in the way also.. They were too big to sit side by side so there is several inches of overlap.

 

Where is the temperature sensor located?

[slowlearner]

7 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

You've blocked off most of the flow of air getting through by vehicle speed alone. This fan will be on way more than it needs to and I doubt it will move as much air as the stock fan so I would hazard a guess that you will have cooling problems. I would leave the right side open. My rad set up is similar with two Subaru fans. One like yours, the other re-wired to push and mounted on the front right as the pulley is in the way also.. They were too big to sit side by side so there is several inches of overlap.

 

Where is the temperature sensor located?

 

I've talked to a few locals and their setups they are all like this including a friend's rally car. I will test it out though and if there are problems I'll add some rubber flaps to the back of the shroud like OEM applications. The flaps are pushed open by oncoming air, but suck shut when the fan switches on.

 

Just btw, some years ago, I looked into what sorts of airflow a radiator needed to work properly. To my shock, I was advised by an industry expert that they only needed 40% laminar airflow to work at the front. Most of the flow comes from vacuum created by the front of the car. So, even though the radiator looks blocked I'm confident this will work well for me like it has done for others. However, I'll be the first to put up my hand and confess if I've got it wrong. 🙂 

Edited September 9, 2021 by slowlearner

[slowlearner]

I've been chipping away at the loom recently. I got it 95% done and in the car to start working on the various sensor hook ups. Today, I finally got the crank, coolant and air intake temp sensors all working. I had the crank sensor wired in backwards and it needed a resistor to get rid of background noise. But it's all working! I'm yet to get the base timing right, even though the coilpacks work.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CT9AkCShAvL/?utm_medium=copy_link

 

 

[slowlearner]

Very Excited, been mucking around with the loom and sensors. Then getting the base timing right on the first go today. Straight away the motor fired up using the ECU to run the ignition system. Amazingly, I set the gap in the 36-1 wheel 2 teeth before TDC. When I rolled the engine over on the timing light it was bang on 10deg btdc fixed timing like it should have been. I just need to mark the toothed wheel where it lines up with the mark on the pulley. 

 

I've left the dizzy and coil in position just in case there are issues. Not that I'm expecting any. 

 

[slowlearner]

Hi everyone, been a while between postings. Between lockdown and dog bites... don't ask.

 

Anyhow, hit the shed last night and got the intake manifold on the car. 

 

 

I have driven the car ECU ignition + carbs. It was alright, but I'm really looking forward to getting the fuel system working. That's the next thing I've got to work on. Fuel tank swaps and running high pressure fuel lines. Yay.

[slowlearner]

Drained the fuel tank. 2 1/2 gallons. Then cut the fuel line and spill several quarts on the ground before I managed to get the other 2 gallons into a jerry can. Yeah, classy I know. I can still smell the fuel on me a day later. Enough whining...

 

 

Still, I managed to get the new tank in and started hooking it up. No, I still won't light a match in there.