720 4x4 KA24DE swap

[C10]

Hey everyone,

 

I've had my 720 for 2 daily driving years now, and I still love manual everything. Super easy to work on and reliable. I will keep it for a LONG time (I think modern cars are a joke) and now want to make it the way I have started fantasizing what the truck could be. 

 

I'm interested in the KA24DE swap because I'm currently talking to a guy that wants to get rid of his whole KA24DE and 5trans with harness from a 91 240sx and I have the money.

Current description: "Selling my Nissan 2.4l ka24de engine and 5-speed trans out of my 91 Nissan 240sx runs and drives 130 compressions on all 4 bottom ends was just rebuilt and it still burning oil head wasn't touched so could be either valve seals or the rings didn't seat no ticks or knocks! Will come with harness and everything has a new clutch still in the car if you want to hear it nice aftermarket header" 

 

Issues don't bother me, I'll probably rebuild it fresh. 

 

I was wondering if this would fit my 720 4x4, I know to buy some engine mounts (or was it an electric box from one of the users here?) and possible oil pan modification I can't exactly remember. I prefer EFI for high altitudes when I go snowboarding and the extra power will be awesome climbing hills cause the current engine is really pushing it on uphill highways (I will miss how less complex carb is, but carbs aren't great for dusty mountain air too).

 

My important question is, would this mate well for my 4x4 85 720? KA24DE is the pretty common engine but how are quality/expensive parts? Aftermarket considerations? (maybe a turbo since I heard there are some kits if I want to get spicy). Working on this engine is probably a little bit more complex due more electrical but I want to hear opinions on working on it?

 

I really appreciate input from communities like this though, I mostly lurk here and sometimes seek advice for issues. I also was a huge 1st gen Isuzu trooper fan at planetisuzoo but come to love Datsun/Nissan parts availability and looks.

 

Thanks so much.

[MaxChlan]

It seems like those who start this project never complete it, or finish it and do not say anything. Whatever you chose, document and post your results on here. From what I've heard, engine mounts are available from someone on this forum. The big issue is getting the oil pan of the KA to clear the front diff. From what I've read, it involves some mixing and matching of the KA and Z's oil pan. There is a thread on it here that you should read. 

[C10]

If the stars align correctly to get the project in motion, my aim is to get a quality youtube production so people can see and have references. I really like documenting, so showing people an exciting project like this would be a fun side thing. 

 

Reading more about it, the oil pan is probably the most complicated. I have a friend who is a quality welder,  so it isn't a deal breaker. I thought because of having a 4x4 it might have more room, but then I remember someone said to get rid of the cross member I would have to go with a SAS.

 

Hmm, unique oil pan or more money to fork out for a straight axle and more welding...

[bottomwatcher]

The problem is the crank girdle. You would have to sas with the car motor. Truck motor up to 97 doesn't have a girdle and a pan can be modified to fit.

[Lockleaf]

Girdle can be cut away to fit inside truck pan.

[]2eDeYe]

11 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

Girdle can be cut away to fit inside truck pan.

 

 

Details man!

[Lockleaf]

I've (over the course of many years) found 2 threads (i think both on infamous nissan?) where someone did it.  One guy just took his grinder with a flap wheel and kept test fitting the truck pan until it fit over the girdle.  The other guy went hardcore and cut the caps apart completely, then ground the caps until they fit under the pan.  I should edit my previous comment to start with "According to the internets......"

 

Unfortunately, I have never kept track of those threads and I have no idea what even led me to them in first place.

 

[bottomwatcher]

No offense but that doesn't sound like a good idea. The truck block and a modified pan work fine, I am rolling a combo naps z/KA pan and it works fine. There isn't much room for the sump it is a tight fit between the front differential and crossmember. If you got the skills I guess have at it, but why reinvent the wheel. 

[Lockleaf]

How is it a bad idea?  The exact same engine in the truck has independent caps.  99% of engines out there have independent caps.  There is no evidence that it will cause any issues what so ever.  Only the supposition based on "it wouldnt be there if it didnt HAVE to be" which has been proven wrong repeatedly.

[datzenmike]

'88-'90 S13 KA24E has girdle

'90-'97 Hardbody KA24E do not

 

'91-'98 S13/14 KA24DE has girdle

'98-  KA24DE Hardbody.... probably same as car.

 

 

I guess cars are likely to get more abuse than trucks?????

 

From an '89 KA24E  S13. Girdle adds rigidity to the block.

 

Adds structural rigidity to the block and transmission. Car KA24Es are heavier than the truck ones.

 

 

 

 

 

Which bearing is the KA's.

[Crytek89]

As MaxChlan linked, that is my KA swap article. Being as my truck is 2wd, some parts of the guide may be irreverent.

It is a rather large job, in the sense that the modifications that are required, are rather complex; namely the oil pan issue, and how best to undertake the job. If I had the money, i'd personally do a dry sump setup, but I'm sure we all would. I fabricated my pan from the KA and the bottom of the pan using a KA24E pan off a D21. You can use the Z24 pan, however it'll take some work to fit as a rear sump as it's not as long, and you'll still require the KA pan for the overall bolting pattern.

In terms of parts - new parts are *generally* available at Nissan dealerships, aftermarket options are copious. Enjukuracing is a good example of what's available.
If you are going to turbo it, stock can handle roughly 7psi, anymore than that and you'll want to start looking at forged options. In addition to this, the stock MAF from the S13 does not like boost, you'll need to find a MAF from a Z32 (300zx) and run an aftermarket ECU.

As for maintenance, the KA24DE is a rather solid engine, having run it for nearly 2 years now, I can't think of anything to complain about personally. I also know a ton of people who run them in their 240sx's for drifting and running n/a or turbo'd they're a hell of a lot more reliable than SR's from what i've seen.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yes, I to have seen the caps cut out of the girdle, but I have not done this myself.

 

The KA's had skinny bearings (like in Mike's pic above) which obviously take more abuse than any L4, because of their added 50hp. Using good bearings is always important. Try not to use aluminum bearings as they can actually chip off with hard use. A good tri-metal bearing (like the factory used) is preferred.

[Crytek89]

On 3/23/2019 at 10:09 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

The KA's had skinny bearings (like in Mike's pic above) which obviously take more abuse than any L4, because of their added 50hp. Using good bearings is always important. Try not to use aluminum bearings as they can actually chip off with hard use. A good tri-metal bearing (like the factory used) is preferred.

 

With this also in mind, the KA does like to spin the bearing on cyl.#2 so certainly a good bearing material is encouraged to ensure longevity.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You should also drill the #2 and #4 main oil feed holes to 1/4". Drill and chamfer the bearing too.