Charlie69 Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Hey DM post a picture of your Weber top. what model is your Weber? All the tops I have for the DG series will take the fuel line on either side. 1 Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted August 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 Hey DM post a picture of your Weber top. what model is your Weber? All the tops I have for the DG series will take the fuel line on either side. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/7483-dms-76-620-pickup-first-project-attempted/page__view__findpost__p__96279 its the 32/36 DGAV03B I looked and the left port seems blocked off. I suppose I could drill it our or something but the brass fuel inlet looks pressed in. The new ones I've seen online look like you can change the sides, this one does not look that way. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted August 27, 2010 Report Share Posted August 27, 2010 I would pull the fuel inlet out Drill & tap both sides to 1/4" pipe thread. Plug one side and screw in a new inlet fitting on the other side. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 DM I will be getting a Wber just like yours on Tuesday, It is on a 1969 Datsun 521 with a J13 in it. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted August 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 I would pull the fuel inlet out Drill & tap both sides to 1/4" pipe thread. Plug one side and screw in a new inlet fitting on the other side. But, but, but... that takes away my excuse to by a new Weber! :)BTW, Truck is charging again. Replacement Alt is a freekin' beast though. It looks like it belongs in a full sized truck! I had to by an inch bigger belt. Next project will be to fix the fuel sender I think. I'm tired of guessing how much fuel is in the tank. I have a spare, just not looking forward to droping the tank. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Test your tank sender is easy would you like me to scan the manual page and email it to you? I think you could spend the $265 for a new Weber on something else that needs replacing. "{If it ain't broke don't replace it!" :lol: Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 I have the '78 service manual from http://www.olddatsuns.com/620tech.htm But it really doesn't say much about the fuel sending unit. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 hey uhhh, if you buy a new weber i call dibs on maybe buyin your old one! lol i want a real weber so bad 1 Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 hey uhhh, if you buy a new weber i call dibs on maybe buyin your old one! lol i want a real weber so bad I will definitely keep that in mind. I already rebuilt it so should be perfect, just needs shined up. Like Charlie said... I need to save my coin for now. I also have the stock carb off the '78 if you are interested. I haven't touched it since I unbolted it and brought to the "swap meet". Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 eeeeh, i dont really get along with stock carbs. thanks for the offer on that tho! but yeah, a weber would be choice. this motorcraft carb doesnt have anymore idle adjustment. so it idles at like 1100 sometimes. i hate it... good thing is, my jets will swap over! so itll prolly run good.. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 I just dropped $ into new motorcycle tires since my rear tire went flat. So no big purchases for awhile. I hooked up the 'new' fuel sending unit up and sure enough it reads all the way from E to F on my fuel gauge now! Now all I have to do is remove the fuel tank. I'm not looking forward to that. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted September 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 So I drained the fuel tank and dropped it, popped the 'new' sending unit in, but now it is only showing 1/8 full when it should be nearly full! I was high from gas fumes and tired of working on it...so I'll tackle it again tomorrow. But at least I know the old one was toast... the contact completely fell off and was just metal touching the coil. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 So Truck tied (same place it did last time actually!) on my way home from work. It lost power like the fuel pump died or like I ran out of gas. I had a cop push me to a parking spot out of the way. After have the GF pick me up I put gas in it even though I was pretty sure I had nearly a full tank (thinking somebody stole me gas). It started up and I actually got a few blocks again before it died. Pulled the fuel line off and with fuel pump on (key to run) nothing comming out. Same when I pulled the hose off behind the filter. Pulled the hose off at the pump... nothin' So, either the fuel pump died or is clogged. I'm betting clogged since I just pulled the tank and probably dislodged something! :( Either way, pulled the fuel pump and now just running the stock fuel pump on the block. Seems to be running fine now! yay. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted September 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 I haven't really posted in awhile but still tinkering. I've been trying to get this damn engine running the way it should be and not smell like gas everywhere I go. I've been driving the truck back and forth to work. It is getting horrible gas mileage (20MPG) and is burning oil and seems like it is running way rich. I've gone through the carbs and everything is in place. The weber 32/36 was rebuilt like 2 years ago and everything still looks as it should. I have timed and set the fast idle and idle screws like 3 times now at 12-14 TDC at 600-100 RPMS. Still the same outcome. I'm not sure the electric choke is working. When I let it warm up in the morning it spews out gray smoke until I kick it down. Even while driving it still has fuel smelling exhaust. If you hold your hand in front of the tailpipe it will be covered in black in a matter of seconds, presumably from the oil being burnt. I've read through the weber Howto like 3 times and the only thing I can think of is to retard the timing below 10deg TDC and see if that helps. Maybe my timing chain is way loose. The weird thing is I did a compression test and everything looks good. at like 130-140psi and holds for over 30min for each. I have not cracked open the head to look at valve lash ect yet. Any advise? Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 26, 2010 Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 Check the float level on the carb. 41mm & 51mm are the measurements. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted September 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 Check the float level on the carb. 41mm & 51mm are the measurements. 41mm near the pivot end and 51mm at the far end? Cuz it is level with the carb right now. Not gonna check now since it is 9pm Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 26, 2010 Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 DM the setings are for a brass float. http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/images/Weber%20Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide.pdf http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Weber_DGV_Tuning Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted September 26, 2010 Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 ha i saw the lil datto the other day! you got a datsun labratory in the carport too! lol hey about that weber.. is that one that was a kit for a datsun? it might be jetted wrong. ive got an old bag of weber/motorcraft jets i can look at. ill see if theres anythin in there that might help.. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted September 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 ha i saw the lil datto the other day! you got a datsun labratory in the carport too! lol hey about that weber.. is that one that was a kit for a datsun? it might be jetted wrong. ive got an old bag of weber/motorcraft jets i can look at. ill see if theres anythin in there that might help.. I've always wondered about the jetting but I think I was told it was about right. I have 160 on the left and 170 on the right (I can't remember which is the primary this early in the morning). If you have a kit I could test out that would be super. But never done it so I may need some assistance. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted September 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2010 DM the setings are for a brass float. http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/images/Weber%20Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide.pdf http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Weber_DGV_Tuning oh, I have the black foam/plastic float I believe the choke isn't even engaging Thanks for the links. I think I had these years ago, I'll read through them at work today. The weirdest thing I notice is in the morning when you are supposed to push the pedal to the floor and let go and start and it is supposed to auto choke then kick down when warm...Well it spews out massive ammounts of grey smoke (I'm betting I could ignite with a lighter here!). I tap the gas pedal to kick it down and it stops! Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 dude how did i miss your threead, i just got done everything you ar edoing except i built a new motor for mine, dude i painted my brake and clutch master and the brake fluid barely seeped a bit and ruined the paint on both of them!!!! good luck!!! lol it sucks but eh what the heck, anyways looking good, i painted my bay gray for now but it will go the color of the truck when i blast and paint the whole thing, looking good though man keep it up, i know its time consuming but its worth it in the end Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Changed over sides for the carb the other day. Kinda documented how I did it. Maybe put it in the How to section? I Cut off and drilled out the old brass insert. I then drilled out the hole incrementing one drill bit size at a time until you get to the proper size. I tapped to match the brass fitting. I did the same to the other side, but made sure to punch through all the way, taking care not to hit anything once you punch through... (like I sorta did) Note the lubrication in the background. If you want nice threads with out burs then oil/lube of some kind is needed. Don't forget to either use some thread lock or Teflon tape in my case Finished product (minus the filter/plug) Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Here DM sorry it took so long to find this link. http://www.piercemanifolds.com/v/vspfiles/templates/34/pdfs/Float_Level_1.pdf Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Here DM sorry it took so long to find this link. http://www.piercemanifolds.com/v/vspfiles/templates/34/pdfs/Float_Level_1.pdf Nice! Thanks man. I'll check that out tonight. Quote Link to comment
deadmonkey Posted September 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 Nice! Thanks man. I'll check that out tonight. Didn't get to that until today. I'll know for sure when I take it to work tomorrow, but I think that may have been it. The lower measurement was more like 40mm + not 35. Not sure how that happened :( Hopefully it was something nice and simple like that. I still have black smoke though...burning oil. I'll look for some new valve seals, I saw somebody post the rope trick recently so that should make doing that a snap. EDIT: bought some valve stem seals on Ebay today. Cheaper than rockauto.com... Man they charge allot for shipping. Quote Link to comment
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