Speedymaru Posted August 9, 2017 Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 I'm buying a red 620 in a week or two, and I've already gone to look at it and it looks like a very solid truck other than a little bit of paint bubbling on the bottom side of the doors on both sides. My thought to fix this is to paint black on the bottom side of the body line to the bottom of the truck. I'm not sure if I'm explaining that well enough. I basically want to remove the old rust, and put fresh black paint on the rocker panels. Any guidance on how to go about doing this? I've also thought about using a vinyl wrap over that part rather than paint. Any guidance is very much appreciated. Thank you Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 9, 2017 Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 Under the doors, or bottom of doors? Replacing doors is a great option if on doors. If under, rockers are fuct. Can replace, but takes tools and experiance to not make it worse. I'd take it to a pro if I wanted to save headache. Else, cut it out, weld new metal, spray rust inhibitor into the rocker to cover your welds, and don't drive in the rain. Also, I'd personally keep to one color 80% of the time. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 9, 2017 Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 You are going to have to get it to bare metal and treat the area or cut out the rust and weld in new metal. Or find new doors. Black line would salvage an orginal paint truck I guess. Could work, but you're going to have to deal with the rust first or it will just get worse. Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted August 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2017 Bottom of doors. The rockers are solid, it's just the sheet metal on the door. I'm thinking I'll grind as much rust and ruined paint off as possible with a wire wheel or sandpaper, then treat the rust, and maybe use fiberglass cloth if there's any holes and bondo it smooth? Any issues with this? I'm assuming they sell the same paint that it was originally sprayed with in spray cans? Is it possible to make it blend with the old paint? Thanks for the info Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 10, 2017 Report Share Posted August 10, 2017 You can have any paint shop put the OG color in a can for you. Depending on the side of the rust holes, sounds like you are the right track. Lots of ways to accomplish the same thing. Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted August 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2017 Alright cool. Thank you very much Quote Link to comment
pondking Posted August 10, 2017 Report Share Posted August 10, 2017 Rust mort would be great to remove most of the rust before it continues Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted August 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2017 Alright, thanks for the suggestion Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted August 10, 2017 Report Share Posted August 10, 2017 Bubbling rust is almost certainly coming from the inside, not outside surface. You can't just paint over it. Quote Link to comment
BambooU Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Bubbling rust is almost certainly coming from the inside, not outside surface. You can't just paint over it. This. Never paint over rust. just asking for trouble down the line. I'd recommend taking it down as close to metal (or undercoat paint. whenever the rust stops) and then hitting it with that sweet Por15. That stuff works well for stopping rust and protecting the area. slather it on, then paint over it. 1 Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Por15 is your best bet. You need to get into the door though. Take off the door card. You need to check the other side of the metal. If anything is through, you have rust flakes on the bottom inside of the door where water sits. Your grinder will make it worse. Clean it out and fill with rust preventer. It's this nasty film that you spray in there and never dries. The outside I'd sand down to metal. Treat with muriatic. Cover with poor 15. If you must, fiberglass body filler, better yet a layer of build up primer before sanding painting. Por 15 is a talent that should be practiced a couple of times. Especially vertical. It takes forever to dry, and once fully dry (days) can't really be painted over without sanding first. Also, wear gloves. Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 hell, id say wear dish gloves. Once that shit is on you. It wont go without a thorough scrubbing and a week time. Quote Link to comment
BambooU Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 hell, id say wear dish gloves. Once that shit is on you. It wont go without a thorough scrubbing and a week time. Or dry the F*CK out of your hands with rubbing alcohol. Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted August 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 Okay cool, thank you all very much. What's the best way to remove the door card? Do you think it's a good idea to buy the por 15 kit that has the cleaner, metal prep, and the stuff itself? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 Okay cool, thank you all very much. What's the best way to remove the door card? Do you think it's a good idea to buy the por 15 kit that has the cleaner, metal prep, and the stuff itself? That comes down to how much you plan on doing.... I used alot on my 521 and I mean alot... entire chassis and cab.... so I bought individually by the gallon for me it ends up cheaper..... the kit is probably ideal for what your trying to do.... Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 just bought the pint and i used about 2/3 on the frame with 2 layers. Still holds fine after 2 years. All except where the sun attacked it directly. Forgot to mention: i had the frame sandblasted at 90% I wire wheeled the rest. I saw no difference after all. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Okay cool, thank you all very much. What's the best way to remove the door card? Do you think it's a good idea to buy the por 15 kit that has the cleaner, metal prep, and the stuff itself? I think yes, though I've not done that yet. I've used the etching primer they sell in a spray can. I like that as a base coat if it's not completely rust free. But just use the kit. It's all there for ya Quote Link to comment
Speedymaru Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Okay sounds good. I think the kit will be good for my situation. Any advice on the door card? It's in really good shape right now and I've heard of them never being able to be put on correctly again if you take them off incorrectly Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Yeah. Don't tug on the board. You need to get a tool, or make a tool that pulls the pins. You want flat, like a puddy knife. Ideally, with a notch cut into the middle so you can slide it under both sides of the pin. Look up Datsun door panel clips so you can see what you are pulling out. Get right under them before applying any force. They do pop out, but the door card will break if you just pull up on the card. Pull up on the pins them self. Also, remove the handle, window crank and any other crap in there. If you've never done that, watch you tube videos. There is a tricky clip you need to pull out from under them. Put all the stuff in baggies to keep thinks together as you go. Quote Link to comment
BambooU Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 I use a bent piece of metal in an L shape to get the door handles and window crank out without scratching up the panels. The trick is definitely to be gentle with the door clips. Don't get angry and try to pull it off with a screwdriver like i did. If it's old enough, it'll tear the board and then you're screwed. Patience and putty knives. Quote Link to comment
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