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Everything posted by BambooU

  1. My dad and brother and I have a big-ass bag of grommets that we have connected over the years. Both stock rubber and from kits we've bought. In my experience, they NEVER fit right. There's always wiggle room. I've widened firewall holes to make them work. If you just need a plug, Lots of hardware stores also sell aluminum button-like things. They are one-sided, with teeth that keep it tight. Wish i had a picture of it on the car. It's a really clean look and they have wiggle-room for diameters.
  2. I use bicycle and motorcycle cables for my throttle cable and my hood latch. The issue is you'd need some kind of housing along with it, and it needs to be long enough to wrap forward and then back by the transmission (almost 7 feet, i think?). You'd have better luck buying a parking cable or brake from another car and ripping the cable out and making it work for you.
  3. I kinda want to put a dead switch in the car, maybe next to my gauges. It won't be connected. It won't even have anything attached. Maybe I'll put a tiny red light above it, and tell people it's a kill switch or necessary to start the car, just to fuck with someone. I don't live in a terribly high crime area, but i dont trust my door locks these days, so if i leave the car overnight, not in my lot, i just pop the hood, open the Dist cap, and take the distributor rotor. The car can't start if it isn't there, and its more effective than a kill switch.
  4. Like hainz said, On the 510's, there are U-shims around the bolts. They are often hammered in and sandwich the diff in there. My stock diff took some serious muscle-work to get out. My problem was that it hadn't been removed in 25 years. Next time, if it still doesnt want to budge, use a shorty screwdriver and mallet to knock the shims loose. That'll give you the wiggle room needed. Don't lose those shims. I had to remanufacture my own because i lost one along the way 😤
  5. What do you mean by the hump? Do you mean the bezel? Going from the transmission tunnel, there should be a bezel of some kind and a boot, and the boot snuggly fits around the stick. Do you mean the metal bezel or the rubber boot? If you mean the bezel, you'll need to find something that works specifically for the 510 transmission tunnel and the hole that you have. Is it the original hole in the tunnel? Is it a long-tail 4-speed? Is the hole still the same size? If not the stock hole, you'll probably need a bezel... The boot can go from there, and can even be a piece of leather until you find a nice rubber one.
  6. I DEMAND MORE YOUNG DATSUN DRIVERS We are the next generation of this community, and I'd love to keep these things on the road for another 50 years! My brother (24) and I (21) have been obsessed with cars and Datsuns since we were old enough to sit shotgun (~6). It was a bug that our dad implanted in us and has grown into an obsession. We both have 510 project cars, and have the continual urge to project-fy our daily drivers, a Mazda 3 or a Sentra SE-R. I think that the best thing about having a family of gear heads is the mass collective of stories. I have stories from my dad about him dropping a transmission while crawling in a drain gutter because it was easier than jacking the car up. I have stories from my brother about him doing stupid ass shit that I totally have never done like spin out in an intersection (ya know, teenager stuff). And then I have my own stories about the car dying on me on a super long downhill, me throwing the car in neutral and starting her again. Or having to bypass the ignition with another ignition block hanging like an orange from the steering column (and going on a parade lap at LAGUNA SECA like that). I will always be grateful to those that have facilitated this unhealthy obsession with these cars.
  7. This kinda thing happens all the time with my 510. Most of the time, it's older gentlemen and gentlewomen having owned 510s as their first cars. Fond memories of youthful shenanigans, drugs and partying, and past girlfriends/boyfriends all seem to be linked in memory with their old Datsuns. As much as things change, they stay the same. I'm in my early 20's and forging similar memories with my Datsun (impromptu camping out on the side of the road with my girlfriend because the car broke down in the middle of the night 😬) .
  8. BambooU


    My Kyorad did need about a 1/4 inch spacer to get it off the supports. That did put it in a clearance issue with the alternator at the same hose/outlet that OP is having. I ended up using a slightly shorter belt (only about an inch shorter). I have been able to change the belt without totally disconnecting the alternator; start with the belt on the alternator, just need to work it around the fanbelt pulley with a small screwdriver.
  9. In true ratsun fashion, I bought a 7$ shower curtain, cut it to shape on the door, and used a 3M weatherstrip adhesive to make a water-tight seal. Takes about twenty minutes on each side. Make sure to clean the surface clean, otherwise you wont have a perfect seal. One full sized curtain will cover at least four doors. Pic:
  10. I'm pretty sure that clunking is normal. I also experience it at low speed turns, but ONLY after having driven it for a while and warmed it up.
  11. You might be surprised, the 510 hood has a weird cavity right there. My radiator, with no issues: image hosting websites Build's looking good. Look forward to everything.
  12. I've seen other kits, but none of them are as nice as 71Dimers. IF you're feeling up for it, I'd try laying down your own. Find a nice mat you like, a nice carpet, buy a bunch of yards, then custom fit and glue it in in as many pieces as you want (that's what I'm doing to mine, with a 3M adhesive and some jute for cheap sound deadening). I've seen people who carefully remove the leather and replace the foam itself with a thicker and more beefy foam. Not sure if it's worth the effort, though. I've used Simple Green to get gunk off my original door panels, then hitting it with a vinyl polish makes them shine. If they are fraying at the edges, re-gluing them at the edges or even stapling them can work. Mine have really crappy and old wood backing, so I glued a thin plywood to bolster it in one or two places. If they are REALLY fucked, you can buy really nice OEM replicas from Datsun Garage. As for seat belts, unless you are super invested in keeping the car original, Seatbelt Planet is a great place to get aftermarket belts that dont look offensively modern.
  13. Wow I can't argue with those results, looks great on the seat. I'm gonna ask the million dollar question: Why Pink and Blue?
  14. Very seamless. I'm sure it cuts down on the rats next behind the dash, too! I dig the old radio inset with the new sleek panel. Looks good ?
  15. I would have thought sourcing a r200 would be more difficult than a r180. Maybe not new or rebuilt, but junkyard fun times! r180 came in maximas and 810s and things (not that you can find 810s in junkyards anymore ?). Either way, you're working with a R200. I know that you have a bunch of things already converted for the 5-lugs and such, but I'm wondering if, like the sedan, there is a clearance issue for the larger diff casings. People have needed to chop or modify the spare tire well in the sedans to get the r200s into the stock crossmember, or pull out or modify the rear crossmember entirely. Do you have the same problem with the wagon, or is there more room for the swap?
  16. Wait, like stock-setup alternators? Or something like a ZX Intrnal reg.? How much are they charging for them? EDIT: I found a ZX one on RockAuto for 70$ ? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6678256&cc=1209394&jsn=371 Ah I see what you mean, makes sense. I mean, I suppose anything will hold if you tighten the shit out of it. ?
  17. While you are doing alternator work, I would fix that turnbuckle! It's supposed to replace that stock bar that it is mounted to right now. Mount it to the same waterpump bolt that the stock bar is on. I honestly don't know how your belt isn't screaming at you right now. Seems like it wouldn't hold...
  18. My rudimentary understanding of LSD's and differentials in general is that a clutch pack LSD is affected by the breakaway weight or breakaway torque from the friction on your wheel. Ex, if the breakaway "weight" is 35 lbs, then there will need to be at least 35 lbs of friction on the inside wheel to make the LSD engage and do its job. A street car and autocross car should probably have a lower breakaway so you can still actuate the LSD on slow turns. I don't think that you'll need to worry about the power you're pulling from your motor with that R200. I am right now rebuilding a r160 LSD. It's a clutch pack LSD and has a 45-lbs breakaway. Is the Tomei a clutch pack or Quaife/Gleason-Torsen or what? If it's a clutch pack, the breakaway is adjusted by shims inside the spool (i would imagine they tell you somewhere what the setting is). I have heard people measure their breakaways by putting a torque wrench on one half shaft and a prybar on the other and seeing at what weight it, well, breaks loose. Somebody should check everything I just said. ^^^ I am currently going through the same kind of rebuild, and with a r160, not a r200.
  19. I am out of State right now, but as long as you have the connection correct, and the wiper motor installed, the joint or connection should be on the passenger side. If I recall correctly, the SHORT arm (the one with NO wiper mount) is the one that connects to the wiper motor, and it immediately goes across to the passenger side. PLEASE CORRECT IF INCORRECT. It has been a few years since I put mine in.
  20. I never noticed that there was a dump from the grate's big basin down there. I always assumed it went to the ends and through the rubber hoses. It's actually a really annoying little piece, because it juts into the interior of the car and if it leaks (or outright rotted off), it dumps into the car. But Mike is right that the "main" dumps on the side of the drain go out into the fenders. I don't have any pictures, but I'm pretty sure that it outs right behind the front wheel. As for the really small slit, I can't say I have EVER noticed it. I live in California so it doesn't rain enough for me to notice it, but I can see how it'd be annoying, the water just dumping on top of the tranny. I don't know whether you are looking to open it up or seal it, but either way, is there a way to hammer the slit closed or use a prybar to open it up a bit? I feel like tacking on that 16$ piece of steel is overkill. I worry about rust more so than crud gathering in that crevice. I don't want to know what the metal on the inside looked like... I actually lathered Por15 in that entire basin. It's super prone to rusting and is something that you never see until it's way too late and rusted through. I would try to seal the opening up at it's top, inside the basin. That way no water OR crud gets down there. Let the water gather and flow out the sides. If you're already looking at tacking work, a simple steel plate would close the gap (and it would be unseen).
  21. To give you an idea of the kind of clearance issues I was dealing with on the other side, this is AFTER the 3 cm nylon spacer:
  22. Of course, of course! I wanted to wait to get good lighting. It's also hard to get a good shot since the rollbar is in the way.
  23. All said and done, I think the finished product looks pretty good, black on black on black
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