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About BambooU

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bay Area/Los Altos, California
  • Cars
    1969 2-door 510
  • Interests
    Working on Cars, Hot rods, vintage Nissan and Japanese imports

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  1. My dad and brother and I have a big-ass bag of grommets that we have connected over the years. Both stock rubber and from kits we've bought. In my experience, they NEVER fit right. There's always wiggle room. I've widened firewall holes to make them work. If you just need a plug, Lots of hardware stores also sell aluminum button-like things. They are one-sided, with teeth that keep it tight. Wish i had a picture of it on the car. It's a really clean look and they have wiggle-room for diameters.
  2. I use bicycle and motorcycle cables for my throttle cable and my hood latch. The issue is you'd need some kind of housing along with it, and it needs to be long enough to wrap forward and then back by the transmission (almost 7 feet, i think?). You'd have better luck buying a parking cable or brake from another car and ripping the cable out and making it work for you.
  3. I kinda want to put a dead switch in the car, maybe next to my gauges. It won't be connected. It won't even have anything attached. Maybe I'll put a tiny red light above it, and tell people it's a kill switch or necessary to start the car, just to fuck with someone. I don't live in a terribly high crime area, but i dont trust my door locks these days, so if i leave the car overnight, not in my lot, i just pop the hood, open the Dist cap, and take the distributor rotor. The car can't start if it isn't there, and its more effective than a kill switch.
  4. Like hainz said, On the 510's, there are U-shims around the bolts. They are often hammered in and sandwich the diff in there. My stock diff took some serious muscle-work to get out. My problem was that it hadn't been removed in 25 years. Next time, if it still doesnt want to budge, use a shorty screwdriver and mallet to knock the shims loose. That'll give you the wiggle room needed. Don't lose those shims. I had to remanufacture my own because i lost one along the way 😤
  5. What do you mean by the hump? Do you mean the bezel? Going from the transmission tunnel, there should be a bezel of some kind and a boot, and the boot snuggly fits around the stick. Do you mean the metal bezel or the rubber boot? If you mean the bezel, you'll need to find something that works specifically for the 510 transmission tunnel and the hole that you have. Is it the original hole in the tunnel? Is it a long-tail 4-speed? Is the hole still the same size? If not the stock hole, you'll probably need a bezel... The boot can go from there, and can even be a piece of
  6. I DEMAND MORE YOUNG DATSUN DRIVERS We are the next generation of this community, and I'd love to keep these things on the road for another 50 years! My brother (24) and I (21) have been obsessed with cars and Datsuns since we were old enough to sit shotgun (~6). It was a bug that our dad implanted in us and has grown into an obsession. We both have 510 project cars, and have the continual urge to project-fy our daily drivers, a Mazda 3 or a Sentra SE-R. I think that the best thing about having a family of gear heads is the mass collective of stories. I have
  7. This kinda thing happens all the time with my 510. Most of the time, it's older gentlemen and gentlewomen having owned 510s as their first cars. Fond memories of youthful shenanigans, drugs and partying, and past girlfriends/boyfriends all seem to be linked in memory with their old Datsuns. As much as things change, they stay the same. I'm in my early 20's and forging similar memories with my Datsun (impromptu camping out on the side of the road with my girlfriend because the car broke down in the middle of the night 😬) .
  8. My Kyorad did need about a 1/4 inch spacer to get it off the supports. That did put it in a clearance issue with the alternator at the same hose/outlet that OP is having. I ended up using a slightly shorter belt (only about an inch shorter). I have been able to change the belt without totally disconnecting the alternator; start with the belt on the alternator, just need to work it around the fanbelt pulley with a small screwdriver.
  9. In true ratsun fashion, I bought a 7$ shower curtain, cut it to shape on the door, and used a 3M weatherstrip adhesive to make a water-tight seal. Takes about twenty minutes on each side. Make sure to clean the surface clean, otherwise you wont have a perfect seal. One full sized curtain will cover at least four doors. Pic:
  10. I'm pretty sure that clunking is normal. I also experience it at low speed turns, but ONLY after having driven it for a while and warmed it up.
  11. You might be surprised, the 510 hood has a weird cavity right there. My radiator, with no issues: image hosting websites Build's looking good. Look forward to everything.
  12. I've seen other kits, but none of them are as nice as 71Dimers. IF you're feeling up for it, I'd try laying down your own. Find a nice mat you like, a nice carpet, buy a bunch of yards, then custom fit and glue it in in as many pieces as you want (that's what I'm doing to mine, with a 3M adhesive and some jute for cheap sound deadening). I've seen people who carefully remove the leather and replace the foam itself with a thicker and more beefy foam. Not sure if it's worth the effort, though. I've used Simple Green to get gunk off my original door p
  13. Wow I can't argue with those results, looks great on the seat. I'm gonna ask the million dollar question: Why Pink and Blue?
  14. Very seamless. I'm sure it cuts down on the rats next behind the dash, too! I dig the old radio inset with the new sleek panel. Looks good ?
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