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About BambooU

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Bay Area/Los Altos, California
  • Cars
    1969 2-door 510
  • Interests
    Working on Cars, Hot rods, vintage Nissan and Japanese imports

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  1. I'm pretty sure that clunking is normal. I also experience it at low speed turns, but ONLY after having driven it for a while and warmed it up.
  2. You might be surprised, the 510 hood has a weird cavity right there. My radiator, with no issues: image hosting websites Build's looking good. Look forward to everything.
  3. I've seen other kits, but none of them are as nice as 71Dimers. IF you're feeling up for it, I'd try laying down your own. Find a nice mat you like, a nice carpet, buy a bunch of yards, then custom fit and glue it in in as many pieces as you want (that's what I'm doing to mine, with a 3M adhesive and some jute for cheap sound deadening). I've seen people who carefully remove the leather and replace the foam itself with a thicker and more beefy foam. Not sure if it's worth the effort, though. I've used Simple Green to get gunk off my original door panels, then hitting it with a vinyl polish makes them shine. If they are fraying at the edges, re-gluing them at the edges or even stapling them can work. Mine have really crappy and old wood backing, so I glued a thin plywood to bolster it in one or two places. If they are REALLY fucked, you can buy really nice OEM replicas from Datsun Garage. As for seat belts, unless you are super invested in keeping the car original, Seatbelt Planet is a great place to get aftermarket belts that dont look offensively modern.
  4. Wow I can't argue with those results, looks great on the seat. I'm gonna ask the million dollar question: Why Pink and Blue?
  5. Very seamless. I'm sure it cuts down on the rats next behind the dash, too! I dig the old radio inset with the new sleek panel. Looks good ?
  6. I would have thought sourcing a r200 would be more difficult than a r180. Maybe not new or rebuilt, but junkyard fun times! r180 came in maximas and 810s and things (not that you can find 810s in junkyards anymore ?). Either way, you're working with a R200. I know that you have a bunch of things already converted for the 5-lugs and such, but I'm wondering if, like the sedan, there is a clearance issue for the larger diff casings. People have needed to chop or modify the spare tire well in the sedans to get the r200s into the stock crossmember, or pull out or modify the rear crossmember entirely. Do you have the same problem with the wagon, or is there more room for the swap?
  7. Wait, like stock-setup alternators? Or something like a ZX Intrnal reg.? How much are they charging for them? EDIT: I found a ZX one on RockAuto for 70$ ? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6678256&cc=1209394&jsn=371 Ah I see what you mean, makes sense. I mean, I suppose anything will hold if you tighten the shit out of it. ?
  8. While you are doing alternator work, I would fix that turnbuckle! It's supposed to replace that stock bar that it is mounted to right now. Mount it to the same waterpump bolt that the stock bar is on. I honestly don't know how your belt isn't screaming at you right now. Seems like it wouldn't hold...
  9. My rudimentary understanding of LSD's and differentials in general is that a clutch pack LSD is affected by the breakaway weight or breakaway torque from the friction on your wheel. Ex, if the breakaway "weight" is 35 lbs, then there will need to be at least 35 lbs of friction on the inside wheel to make the LSD engage and do its job. A street car and autocross car should probably have a lower breakaway so you can still actuate the LSD on slow turns. I don't think that you'll need to worry about the power you're pulling from your motor with that R200. I am right now rebuilding a r160 LSD. It's a clutch pack LSD and has a 45-lbs breakaway. Is the Tomei a clutch pack or Quaife/Gleason-Torsen or what? If it's a clutch pack, the breakaway is adjusted by shims inside the spool (i would imagine they tell you somewhere what the setting is). I have heard people measure their breakaways by putting a torque wrench on one half shaft and a prybar on the other and seeing at what weight it, well, breaks loose. Somebody should check everything I just said. ^^^ I am currently going through the same kind of rebuild, and with a r160, not a r200.
  10. I am out of State right now, but as long as you have the connection correct, and the wiper motor installed, the joint or connection should be on the passenger side. If I recall correctly, the SHORT arm (the one with NO wiper mount) is the one that connects to the wiper motor, and it immediately goes across to the passenger side. PLEASE CORRECT IF INCORRECT. It has been a few years since I put mine in.
  11. I never noticed that there was a dump from the grate's big basin down there. I always assumed it went to the ends and through the rubber hoses. It's actually a really annoying little piece, because it juts into the interior of the car and if it leaks (or outright rotted off), it dumps into the car. But Mike is right that the "main" dumps on the side of the drain go out into the fenders. I don't have any pictures, but I'm pretty sure that it outs right behind the front wheel. As for the really small slit, I can't say I have EVER noticed it. I live in California so it doesn't rain enough for me to notice it, but I can see how it'd be annoying, the water just dumping on top of the tranny. I don't know whether you are looking to open it up or seal it, but either way, is there a way to hammer the slit closed or use a prybar to open it up a bit? I feel like tacking on that 16$ piece of steel is overkill. I worry about rust more so than crud gathering in that crevice. I don't want to know what the metal on the inside looked like... I actually lathered Por15 in that entire basin. It's super prone to rusting and is something that you never see until it's way too late and rusted through. I would try to seal the opening up at it's top, inside the basin. That way no water OR crud gets down there. Let the water gather and flow out the sides. If you're already looking at tacking work, a simple steel plate would close the gap (and it would be unseen).
  12. To give you an idea of the kind of clearance issues I was dealing with on the other side, this is AFTER the 3 cm nylon spacer:
  13. Of course, of course! I wanted to wait to get good lighting. It's also hard to get a good shot since the rollbar is in the way.
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