d.p Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 One of those two front bolts broke so I just have the one underneath the fuel pump. Which one is the emission pump? I pulled the manifold, back, set it to TDC and now I break the cam bolt loose, set the wedge then remove the bolt? OR set the wedge then break the cam bolt loose? What the easiest way to break the cam bolt loose? I looked down towards the bottom of the chain and there looks to be a dowel/pin, the wedge sits on top of that pin? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Love the can opener.... I'm guessing magnetic? I'd put it back when you done... or leave it.... good luck charm... plus it will be a good party trick if anyone needs a beer opened.... As far as the cam bolt what you said will work.... i would leave the wedge out for now just incase. If things move you may need to reset one last time.. when you go to actually remove the pulley from the cam is when you'll want that wedge in.... Looking good so far.... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 So I can put a crescent wrench on the cam as long as I don't do it on a lobe? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Yes that's an acceptable way. .. there should be a spot with 2 ears you can put a wrench on.... protect the head from the wrench too.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 I wish you and others were closer.... I would have just stopped over and helped... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Yeah perils of being on the east coast. I tried the vise and wood block but I don't think mine are big enough. Every time I tried to break it loose the cam moves and I have to move it back to TDC. Tried turning the wood lengthwise but I cant get it to stay. :( I think I am done for the day. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Eastcoast here too.... a bit further north i believe.. Your best bet is let it move.... once it breaks loose then move things back to the tdc marks and continue on.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Is the truck in neutral or in gear... having it in gear might help to.... everything provides resistance.... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Yeah you are in MA right? One other dude around here but he is kind of weird. Ok break it loose then move it back to TDC? I thought I had to keep it at TDC while I broke it loose. It was neutral but will put it in gear, 4th work? Going to buy a big crescent wrench tomorrow and will be back at it. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 8, 2017 Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 Yup masshole here (not really, but I am from mass) Ya break it loose then just reset. Once you start removing things is when you wanna make sure the crank doesn't move. If you put it in gear to break it loose just chock and ebrake the wheels so it doesn't move... Check on you tomorrow Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Manifolds are a lot easier to remove after the head is off. You can leave the carb in place. Loosen cam sprocket bolt before setting TDC, block chain and then remove it. To remove the rockers with the head off, set the cam lobe upward so the valve is closed. Get an 18" pry bar/screwdriver and slip under the cam from the manifold side and pry down on the side of the valve spring retainer to depress the valve spring. Be sure you are between lobes when you pry. This will increase the clearance and you can lift the rocker off to the side of the adjusting post. If you do it this way nothing changes and when put back you don't have to adjust the valve clearances. Keep the rockers and the lash pads together and in order. Cam does not come out until the thrust plate is removed. It's the thing with the horizontal etch mark for setting the cam timing. The cam is fitted with alignment dowels so if careful and keep them in each tower and marked so they go back in the same positions and you should have no problems. Many places that mill heads just take them off anyway and who knows how well they are treated or replaced. Have a care, the threads are small and take very little torque to strip... another good reason to do yourself. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 I'd check with the machine shop your gonna use.... see what they say... if they can do the job with the towers installed leave them alone.... if they want them off then definitely do it yourself like mike said.. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 I couldn't let sleeping dogs lie so I broke it loose last night. Putting it in gear and flipping the vise grips upside down helped a ton. Cam bolt is loose and the motor is at TDC...just need to wedge the chain, remove the head bolts and then I should be all gravy. Will call the machine shop and ask about having them take the towers off for me. Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Take your own cam towers off; just make sure you mark them so they go back on in the same position Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Some times you just sleep better knowing that one thing is done.... I've gone back out to my garage in my pajamas and slippers to do one last thing or check something.... As far as cam towers ... up to you... what ever your comfortable with .... just make sure every thing goes back in square.... maybe I'm paranoid because of the damaged caused to my cam due to the tower being crooked.... but they were also shimmed because the head was milled, and they were not put in right.... Just make a mental note about how smooth it slides in and out of the towers and make sure it feels the same when putting back together.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 When the cam is in but before the rockers, turn the cam by hand. If the towers are right it should spin easy enough. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 most L 16s don't have the 2 lobes in center where one can use a big cresent to break the cam bolt loose removinging the exhaust manifold as Mike said may result in broken studs. I just move it off to the side and pull the head. I don't trust machine shops as they off load it to a kid and then wont mark the rockers Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 I found this link about removing cam towers, this work? http://community.ratsun.net/topic/10760-cam-towers-removal-and-install-on-engine/ Do I have to remove the rockers, springs and retainers? Or can I get by with just sliding the rocker arms off like mike said? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 I'd like to point out previous owner caused my head issues.... found all my problems disassembling my old head... new head came completely reconditioned and ready to bolt on.. so personally I have no experience realigning the towers... I'm sure you can trust what datzenmike and doc510 are saying.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Banzai... didnt realize the 210 head cam didnt have that... gotta luv the small differences... And dp that info looks real good on that link. You ll pull the rockers like mike said and the little retaining spring above the adjuster... And take the lash pads out and keep with the rockers.... Do you mean valve springs and retainers? They will stay in... atleast I would. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Idk, not familiar with all the terms..thought I was just going to remove the rocker arms and retaining springs but now dr 510 talking about cam towers. Still got to get the head off. lol Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Cam bolt, another trick is socket extension thru a cam hole. Use tower to hold extension. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 One head bolt back left towards the firewall doesn't want to come out. Its up and spins but seems like its threaded even though it shouldn't be that high up. I doubt its holding the head attached as all the other head bolts are out so is it OK to remove the head with it like that? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Yeah it's just crusty in the hole, threads are wider than the bolt shaft 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 9, 2017 Report Share Posted May 9, 2017 Hey Mike should he pull the rockers and cam before he pulls the head.... or is it easy enough to do on the bench?.... Quote Link to comment
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