1lo620 Posted April 30, 2017 Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 Ok I know this is generic but I will explain. My truck has picked up and nice sputter and popping issue. Was running decent and then just started sputtering and popping and overall running like crap. I have put new points timed it fuel pump filter etc It has been into a shop and they didn't seem to improve the situation. It does have a 32/36 carb. Offenhauser intake. If that matters. I tried to get it to start today and it won't even start now. I am at a loss. Never had this problem with any of my 620. Any advice or info to check would be nice and appreciated. And not living in the NW anymore sucks. I could always count on Redeye and Hainz to help me out. Quote Link to comment
willz Posted April 30, 2017 Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 Has the exhaust note changed at all? Check the compression on the cylinders? Maybe check the plugs to see how you're running Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted April 30, 2017 Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 Point Gap if they're still there Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 30, 2017 Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 Popping????? Like out the carb??? Check valve lash for a too tight one. Check the distributor cap, rotor and wires. Clean (file) or replace the points and condenser and properly gap them. 1 Quote Link to comment
1lo620 Posted April 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 It has new points and cap and rotor. I am thinking it might be wires and plugs. Next thing I check before I go internal. Because that involves a shop because I am not a mechanic. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 30, 2017 Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 Ok I know this is generic but I will explain. My truck has picked up and nice sputter and popping issue. Was running decent and then just started sputtering and popping and overall running like crap. What popping? out the carb? Only under acceleration? Quote Link to comment
1lo620 Posted April 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 Out of carb and only one I accelerate. The guy at shop said it be jetted wrong. It is a new carb.. But I have been driving it without issue. Then it just picked up this issue.. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 How old is your ignition coil? Have u ohmed it out. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 recheack the point gap. if point distributor. Use a stock coil with ballast resisitor maybe bushing is worn on the distributor make sure wire screws are tight on wires and the point mounting screws otherwise it might go out of adjustment again. simple fix carbs rarely go bad esp if new. if this was running fine then you changed the points then that would be my 1st suspect. if you loose a cylinder ck for a lash pad falling out Quote Link to comment
1lo620 Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Damn Hainz you and Datzenmike make it sound easy..lol. Be easier and nicer if I could bring to you Hainz.. But I don't live in the state anymore. I will do my best to trouble shoot and get it running again. Thanks for the help guys.. I may need more.. Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Sure sounds like a bad condenser to me. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 I assume you put a new condenser in also when you did this point swap but I opnly had one go bad when I drove points. Most were bushing worn out/gap I think it will be the same as the last fix on your other truck point wasn't opening enough. I assume this is a different truck. but we swapped to a Pertronix Point suck. But yes it is EZ but its a best guess from a keyboard trouble shooter. where you move? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Always the chance of a bad new part. Just disconnect the condenser and try. A tight intake that is not closing tight enough will let the cylinder fire back into the intake under load. Set to TDC compresasion on #1 cylinder, and try to wiggle the rockers on valve #1 #2 #3 and #5. Turn engine ONE turn back to TDC and check rockers #4 #6 #7 and #8. As long as you can wiggle the rocker very slightly there is some clearance and the valve will be closed. If you find one so tight you can't move it you should loosen it. Might as well check all the valves with a feeler gauge. There is a tutorial by Mklotz and the tools needed wouldn't be over $20. No sense working 3 hours to pay a mechanic for 1/2 hour of his time to do this. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 we did a valve adjust and I showed How to do a Point adjust if I remember right. on his chop top. set point on lobe and then use slotted screw driver ,set gap, then lock down but went Pertronix after that.never look back 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Valves were adjusted?? Maybe a bad valve or seat then. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 that was his other truck I did. I don't know what 620 this one is Quote Link to comment
1lo620 Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 It is my Blue show truck. It has a new condenser and points.. I gapped them etc. I took it to a shop and they did all that and it ran fine at shop then started doing it again. And haven't driven it since it doesn't go out in the winter. I want to go electronic ignition like my chop top. what should I get. Tired of points. I am going to put it back in the shop and have them look at all that stuff. I don't feel like I know what I am doing and I don't want to make it worse. And Hainz I moved to Minneapolis last summer. Need a change and this is where we ended up. My son lives out here. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Cold out there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and hot in summer Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Have u checked the ignition coil like i mentioned earlier. Issue u are having sounds like what happened to my datsun many moons ago Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 I went up to his place last fall and got the truck running. It was a simple corrosion issue at the side screw on the distributor. I suspect corrosion is setting in everywhere (it IS MN after all) and the engine grounding and numerous other maintenance things are plaguing the truck. Parking in a damp underground garage makes it all worse. I wish I had time to help out, but this is the insane season for rebuilding distributors. 130+ on the shelf waiting... There is a local Datsun/Nissan club if you can find them. I'm not sure if they attend the local Intermarque Import show or not? http://www.intermarque.org/imm.kickoff.html If I find time to paint the hood on the race truck, I may bring it up there. 1 Quote Link to comment
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