Mysta2 Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Has anyone found a place in the Seattle area, or anywhere I can order from that will make metric U bolts? All the spring places I've been are staffed by old timers who will only make standard because it "doesn't matter". It's true that standard will work fine to hold the thing together, but I don't want to put standard hardware on a metric truck and need two tool boxes to service it. I don't want to have to cut my own threads, but if that's the only option I may have to. If I do have to go this route, I'd probably want to do stainless. Stainless hardware tends to be a no no for suspension bits, but this application seems like it would be fine because there's little to no shear force. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 If the exterior diameter of the nut is 3/4", then you use a 19mm. If its 5/8, use a 17mm. If it's 7/8 use a 21mm. They are within thousandths of each other. I would agree with the old timers and say that you don't need to worry about it. Nor will you need to carry standard size tools to work on them. And if you use lowering blocks, you have shear on your bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment
2wheel-lee Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 What's the need for using metric instead of SAE? 1 Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Whats the need? Have you ever stripped a nut because of using the wrong size socket? 1 Quote Link to comment
2wheel-lee Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Whats the need? Have you ever stripped a nut because of using the wrong size socket? No, I have never stripped the head of a 19mm nut by using a 3/4" socket. ;) But even though I have both SAE and metric sockets, admittedly, I use 19mm and 3/4" interchangeably. Just the other night when I lowered the back of my 620, I used a 19mm socket to remove the stock bolts, and then continued to use the same socket on the replacement nuts, that were presumably SAE. The world didn't crumble, the sun still rose in the morning, and there were no marks on the nuts from using the wrong size. Some times those old timers aren't necessarily wrong, even if it's not technically correct. 2 Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 If you tried this with a 12-point socket, you may have issues, but 6-point impact sockets are under $20 a set (China Tool aka Harbor Freight). :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Think about it. Just how many times are you going to be removing the leaf springs? Probably.... never. It really does not matter. 2 Quote Link to comment
Mysta2 Posted April 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 So, sounds like the answer is no. Bummer. Thanks for the suggestions though. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 To me, lowering your truck is a bigger "away from stock" modification than having a different thread on the "U" bolts. Be careful with stainless steel bolts. A very brief metallurgy lesson. Carbon in steel makes it strong. Carbon in steel also makes it rust. The cheapest way to make stainless steel, reduce the carbon, so you do not need as much chromium in the steel alloy to make it not rust. Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 i was gonna correct you on the use of "stronger" vs harder. But i see that the internet uses it left and right Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 If the exterior diameter of the nut is 3/4", then you use a 19mm. If its 5/8, use a 17mm. If it's 7/8 use a 21mm. They are within thousandths of each other. I would agree with the old timers and say that you don't need to worry about it. Nor will you need to carry standard size tools to work on them. Probably better re-check your math on those conversions. You only got one out of three correct. And I agree, SAE u-bolts do not matter. I bet that the only way that you will get metric u-bolts is to get them made in a metric country. Quote Link to comment
sebpv Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 a metric country? Basically the whole world minus the States? 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 If I meant harder, I would of said that. I used to work at a Southeast Portland Oregon investment cast foundry. We made structural parts for gas turbine engines, both land and aircraft use, exhaust side turbocharger wheels, medical implants, and parts out of titanium. 17-4 ph stainless steel, 15-5 stainless, 718, and 713 nickel based "super alloys", that sort of stuff. Quote Link to comment
Mysta2 Posted April 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 In that case Daniel, what would you say about 17-4 U bolts? I would lean toward 17-4 because it machines really nice and easy. Otherwise I'll just be using some cold rolled steel rod. But stainless is a lot cleaner to cut. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 If you can find them. It would not surprise me, that if you can, they are about $100 to $250 each. 1 Quote Link to comment
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