hobospyder Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 also, i would suggest picking up or finding a link to a datsun fsm for your year. they really do come in handy and are specific to year and model. not generic like chiltons. i don't know how good the road king is though. currently there is one on ebay for 100$ which is ridiculous, i don't think i spent that much on 2 of them combined (probably did) http://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-DATSUN-MODEL-620-TRUCK-FACTORY-SERVICE-MANUAL-SHOP-MANUAL-REPAIR-MANUAL-/161502327569?hash=item259a49f311:g:ElYAAOSwiCRUefHR&vxp=mtr also might want to check through this thread for a link or something. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/49090-manuals-i-just-got-a-motherload-of-datsun-books/ 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Olddatsuns.com has everything you need. Everything! 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Water chokes are heated by the coolant to open them. They work, but they have a reputation for being super slow to open fully. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 What's the purpose? Thermostat does the same thing. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Instead of a manual choke or electric choke, it's a hot water choke. No idea why a person would choose one over the other options though. 1 Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 The problem with a hot water choke is that you don't want to heat your intake manifold. They chose it for production because the manifold design was so poor that fuel would drop out of suspension if it cooled, and it was cheap. And it met emissions standards. An electric or manual choke will do better, and run better overall due to a cooler manifold. The carb metering was the bigger issue with fuel staying in suspension (large droplets versus fine mist). Rebuilding the Weber is just a matter of cleaning it and adjusting the floats in most cases. The float bowl and the emulsion tubes get plugged up. Google "Float level - DGV" and print out the spec sheet. Match it up to your carb and follow the simple direections. At this point, your needle and seat are likely stuck closed preventing fuel from entering the carb. 1 Quote Link to comment
snapp_hunter Posted March 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 The problem with a hot water choke is that you don't want to heat your intake manifold. They chose it for production because the manifold design was so poor that fuel would drop out of suspension if it cooled, and it was cheap. And it met emissions standards. An electric or manual choke will do better, and run better overall due to a cooler manifold. The carb metering was the bigger issue with fuel staying in suspension (large droplets versus fine mist). Rebuilding the Weber is just a matter of cleaning it and adjusting the floats in most cases. The float bowl and the emulsion tubes get plugged up. Google "Float level - DGV" and print out the spec sheet. Match it up to your carb and follow the simple direections. At this point, your needle and seat are likely stuck closed preventing fuel from entering the carb. hmm, sounds like a silly system to me, but as long as it continues to run decently with it, I see no need to change it. this truck isn't going to be a daily driver, just a toy so im not super concerned with it. i was figuring some part of the carb was stuck closed, hopefully i can tear into it this weekend and get it straightened out 1 Quote Link to comment
snapp_hunter Posted March 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 had fellow member UnderControl stop by yesterday in need of a drive shaft off the parts truck, he kindly repaid me with getting me through pulling the dash apart so I can get the parts out I have sold to some folks. everything came apart too easily, so the very last screw had to strip out, keeping me from actually removing the bezel. Oh, and here's more pictures of the hot water choke as requested. showed him my wiring I was having concerns about, and his advice was the same as everyone elses, start over with it. I neglected to take a picture of it at the other side of the carb, but it runs into a type of thermostat housing mounted horizontally. Have another Indiana datsun guy coming Saturday night to take the L20 and 4 speed home out of the parts truck, after that it is off to the scrap heap so I can get the new truck in its new home to start on wiring and floors. 2 Quote Link to comment
snapp_hunter Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 drilled out what was supposed to be the last screw to pull the dash bezel out, but it still won't come out. both sides of the bezel are loose, but something towards the middle is keeping it solid. the screw I just removed was the one that is just to the right of the column by the dimmer switch. it goes up through a bracket with a relay attached to it. i pulled my delete plate out and found a screw behind it that i removed as well. do the gauges bolt down somewhere else and act as an anchor, or should I be able to pull the bezel forward and detach the gauges from there? i thought the speedo cable seemed to be hanging it up, but i cant find a way to get an adjustable onto the collar of it. any suggestions? i know pics would've been helpful, but I was so busy getting it done I forgot to. also got the steering wheel ready to be pulled, but forgot to grab a wheel puller while I was in town, will be doing that tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment
snapp_hunter Posted April 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 pulled and sold the L20 out of the parts truck Saturday night, took about 3 1/2 hours to do so. found out my garage is not conducive to this type of work. the guy who purchased it has a caged 510 racecar that it is going to be transplanted into, so Im glad its going to have a future somewhere. alot of people told me that I should swap it into my 74, but i want to KA swap down the road so I didn't feel it was necessary. I'm a few steps closer to getting that truck out of my garage. still have the 4 spd trans that I'll probably put away in case I need it, and I still need to get the gauge bezel and steering wheel pulled. im also going to pull the headliner because my 74 is sans headliner. after that I nave no more use for the truck! Oh, and Im going to pull the wiring harness out and swap into my 74 thanks to PO's hackjob, figure this would be faster than recreating a harness. anyways, onto the pics. just getting started this last trans bolt was a total pain in the ass, took a good 45 minutes just to get it off. and its free! 2 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Nice plumbing in there. Never saw the guy with his ass hanging out install choke lines in a car before!! JK. Welcome to the house! Nice jump to a better truck and probably much safer in the end. Keep up the good work!! 2 Quote Link to comment
2wheel-lee Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 had fellow member UnderControl stop by yesterday in need of a drive shaft off the parts truck, he kindly repaid me with getting me through pulling the dash apart so I can get the parts out I have sold to some folks. everything came apart too easily, so the very last screw had to strip out, keeping me from actually removing the bezel. Oh, and here's more pictures of the hot water choke as requested. showed him my wiring I was having concerns about, and his advice was the same as everyone elses, start over with it. I neglected to take a picture of it at the other side of the carb, but it runs into a type of thermostat housing mounted horizontally. Have another Indiana datsun guy coming Saturday night to take the L20 and 4 speed home out of the parts truck, after that it is off to the scrap heap so I can get the new truck in its new home to start on wiring and floors. Do you have the Home Depot part numbers for all those adapters? Just kidding...sometimes it takes whatever you have to do! 1 Quote Link to comment
snapp_hunter Posted April 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Nice plumbing in there. Never saw the guy with his ass hanging out install choke lines in a car before!! JK. Welcome to the house! Nice jump to a better truck and probably much safer in the end. Keep up the good work!! Do you have the Home Depot part numbers for all those adapters? Just kidding...sometimes it takes whatever you have to do! yeah I had never even heard of a water choke! and I guess he drove it this way for some number of years, so tried and true I guess haha! 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Get some. Progress is progress. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 If you haven't gotten to them yet...keep your window regulators and your wiper li kage/motor/stuff. You're welcome. 2 Quote Link to comment
snapp_hunter Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 If you haven't gotten to them yet...keep your window regulators and your wiper li kage/motor/stuff. You're welcome. 10-4, will do. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Instead of a manual choke or electric choke, it's a hot water choke. No idea why a person would choose one over the other options though. The Toyota Webers had a water choke. Probably got it out of a junk yard. 1 Quote Link to comment
snapp_hunter Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 haven't made any progress on the truck, wife switched her schedule so I literally will never have a day off without my kid, he's only 10 months old, so i can't really leave him to play by himself and get to the garage. on top of that, we had snow this past week, the fuck is up with that in April? i have succeeded in printing out the wiring diagrams for 1974 and 1979 and am basically trying to familiarize myself with them. we have a big car show coming up on the first that I would really like to get the truck out to, the only thing stopping me is the wiring. the floor is rust, but it is solid enough to drive. my to do list on the truck (in order of importance) is as follows: 1. wire all the things! 2. bleed brakes 3. bleed clutch. 4. repair rear floor panel. have a good floor from parts truck that i'm going to tack in. 5. I should probably register and plate this thing at some point 6. replace front bumper and chin valence, both are tweaked a little and i have mint replacements, so why not? 7. also have a NoS hood, so might replace it too for the heck if it, factory hood has a dent. would rather just sell it personally. 1 Quote Link to comment
DatsuNissanLove Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 You guys gonna tow it out here for me? Because I sure as hell don't have the means. Only spent $100 on it, and then $400 for the brand new body panels, so regardless of what you guys think, I'm going to build it in spite of it allyah dont listen to them dude... glad to see that your digging this 620 out of the 10 ft hole it was in... would love to find one like this and restore it.. regardless ur gonna do nothing but good work on this thing cuz i dont think u can do any more bad too it..haha 1 Quote Link to comment
snapp_hunter Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 would love to find one like this and restore it. come to the midwest! if you have the good fortune of even finding one, they are all in similar condition lol Quote Link to comment
DatsuNissanLove Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 come to the midwest! if you have the good fortune of even finding one, they are all in similar condition loltoo far.. Quote Link to comment
snapp_hunter Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 oh, and forgot to mention, picked up a set of 3" lowering blocks to get the back end down to earth. local guy had a set for $15 and they're the steel ones, not aluminum Quote Link to comment
snapp_hunter Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 went to put my lowering blocks on yesterday, thinking that seeing some difference would motivate me. im glad i measured first, turns out my wheels are too wide and would hit the bedsides. guess i gotta pull em, or make room for flares sooner than anticipated haha Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 I agree, no flares please. Adjust the wheels to fit the truck not the truck to the wheels Quote Link to comment
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