poopypants720 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 Alright! Got the pump and dizzy pulled and everything put back in correctly. Fired right up and my dizzy timing marks for stock timing and advance for where my weber likes to run best are both still spot on. Now just have to detune the carb again and go run it through the smog shop so I can get my Weber 38 put on and start playing with timing that! 4 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 crushed smog, 32/34dft9a did it yet again! Time to go home, yank if all these vacuum lines n get to tuning a real weber! 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 great got it running!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 crushed smog, 32/34dft9a did it yet again! Time to go home, yank if all these vacuum lines n get to tuning a real weber! :thumbup: to another successful run Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Welp... Spoke too soon... Started hearing a gurgling noise from my engine while running... Sure enough.... Milkshake. Nothing in the radiator. I knew the questionable reliability of the rental torque wrench was going to do me in... Thing didn't seem to be acting right at all, not giving extremely tactile clicks at lower torque settings (stepped 20,40,60) and seemed to be clicking all to early for 60lbs... Really didn't believe it was tight enough(should of gone with my gut), but I figured that maybe the leverage was making it feel easy(even though my brake bar is longer and still took more pressure to break the bolts loose to begin with... So what's the chance the head is actually ok and this is cause of my water pump? I've already dumped all the oil sludge from the engine and about to drain the radiator fluid... How do I go about getting the sludge out? I head it can be bad for the engine, right? Man... I was soooo happy for about 20 minutes there... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 What's milkshake??? the oil? It's hard to get coolant into the oil. Let the engine cool completely and re-torque head bolts properly. Change the oil and filter. For water to get past the rings and into the crankcase it would steam like hell and you would have noticed this. Won't be the water pump but possibly the cavity the water pump sits in is breached allowing water into the timing chain area and down into the oil pan. Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Yup.... Running perfectly fine... Great in fact... But it was bubbling inside the case, that's what I heard that sounded off and when I took off the valve cover cap, there was steam, but I was running about 75% coolant, 25% water... Temp read in range the whole trip(live 20mi from the smog shop and drove freeway the whole way) so no overheating occurred and I noticed the odd gurgling noise right when I pulled off the freeway. But yes, the oil is cream, or should I say was cream... And when I dumped it there was much more than 4.5qts, so plenty of coolant fluid got into the oil... About 1.5-2qts... But I even topped off the coolant with water when I noticed(still had a mile to go from the freeway exit) and the coolant was circulating into the clear water for and wasn't oil contaminated there... So coolant is getting into the oil, but not the other way around... I'll pull the spark plugs and check for wetness too... But again, truck was running top notch, tuned it again right after smogging and drove home running great... So I doubt the cylinders were breached... So really could be the timing cover and or water pump? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Again let cool off completely and torque the head to 60. Just in case. There is an oil return opening in the back of the L head to drain valve train oil back down into the crankcase. It's surrounded by coolant ports. If the head is not tigh,t water might be able to force it's way over 1/4" under the gasket. Tighten the head bolts. Water can get into the timing chain case by a hole behind the water pump. (Unlikely but corrosion over time can breach this. Was the timing cover off?? If the timing cover and the block are not clean it won't seal around the water pump outlet into the front of the block. There is a small groove around this port so that escaping water will be directed outside but if RTV sealant was used on the gasket (another good reason not to) this grove may be plugged up and not doing it's job. Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Yes, timing cover had to come off to retrieve the loose chain and put back in place the chain tensioner. I cleaned the face of the block and the timing cover thoroughly of the old gasket and only used rtv in the 4 corners of the timing cover as noted in my Haynes manual, but no where near the water port and groove you mentioned, and otherwise went on clean and dry... The gasket I got was paper thin though... Felpro... And I was surprised that it didn't come with a thicker, stronger gasket.... Are you aware of a company that makes a decent gasket for the timing cover? Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 Yes, timing cover had to come off to retrieve the loose chain and put back in place the chain tensioner. I cleaned the face of the block and the timing cover thoroughly of the old gasket and only used rtv in the 4 corners of the timing cover as noted in my Haynes manual, but no where near the water port and groove you mentioned, and otherwise went on clean and dry... The gasket I got was paper thin though... Felpro... And I was surprised that it didn't come with a thicker, stronger gasket.... Are you aware of a company that makes a decent gasket for the timing cover? Nothing wrong w/FelPro. My preference for a sealer here is Indianhead Gasket Shellac AND RTV in the corners. Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2016 http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/fpr/TCS27155/image/4/ Can someone tell me why the gasket is doubled up in this kit? It's one bolt shorter on one of the sets, so assumed they are just using the same all in one kit for both the Z22, and maybe the Z20 or L series motors... Considering my old gasket was extra paper thin(the original removed the first time) I gotta figure they aren't expecting me to double up gaskets or anything... Right? Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2016 hmmmm 3 of 5 gasket sets on rockauto have similar doubled up gaskets for the 81 z22 timing cover gasket set options... Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2016 So out now after dinner... Drained the radiator... Not even a gallon(put in almost 3). Checked the oil catch pan though since I left it open to drip drain all night.... Well there was about a 1/4 inch of fluid in it when I left it needle streaming into a drip-drip-drip, and now the catch pan is about half full... Definitely NOT a head gasket issue, it has to be something around the timing cover leaking into the chain case and down into the pan, cause no way I'd loose that much more radiator fluid with it just sitting here if it was the head... Somewhat happy about that and not having to pull the intake and headers again... Not so excited about the timing cover still and figuring out why it failed when I was so meticulous on cleaning and drying it first... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 20, 2016 Report Share Posted February 20, 2016 If you number the bottom 4 blue gaskets 1, 2, 3, 4 then the 1 and 3 are for the L16/18 and the 2 and 4 are for the L20B, Z20, Z22 timing covers. Pull water pump off and inspect the front of the timing cover behind the pump. Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Pulled the timing cover... Honestly can't tell if it failed around the port to the water pump or not.. The gasket tore a little right next to it while taking off the cover(no where else mind you) but otherwise seemed in good order... Also, no structural issues with the timing cover or water pump, both look great with no pitting or cracking in the surface, front or back. Tried using carb cleaner to clean off the timing cover innards and next to the face of the block and chain... Just turned the sludge into a sticky booger mess cause I think it just drew all the water out and left behind the other compounds... So had to wipe the face clean as good possible and scrape at all the mating surfaces to really get it good and dry there... Put it back together and torqued the head bolts again, loosening and tightening one by one in sequence... Letting the rtv set up over night tonight, then will install the radiator tomorrow and get to flushing the rest of the gunk out... Read up and using motor medic for two flushes... Just add it to the oil and run for five minutes... Then I'll dump that oil/filter and the water...... I'll then do it again and double check that both are clearing up, not just going all to sludge... N then hopefully all will be good n I can put in some good oil and more antifreeze. Oh also pulled the plugs, not a one of them were wet as I expected... Truck was running great, even with milkshake in the crank case so def not a typical head failure if that's what this was... Also, what's the opinion on seafoam or other cleansers on a situation like this? Read many use an additional quart of ATF to help clean this up?? Is that something that can be left in with oil, or should it be dumped within a given amount of run time or miles? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Never use Seafoam. You can get a the same results using water. Ever seen a piston top and combustion chamber that has a failed head gasket? It's always shiny clean from the coolant steam cleaning it. The deposits cool, crack and flake off from the steam. Just get the engine really hot, rev it up good as you and trickle water from a coke can directly into the carb. The engine will slow from the heat being used to make steam. Let warm up again and repeat. Expect crap to fly out the tail pipe and coat the driveway. Better would be to connect your windshield washer hose inside the air filter and go for a drive on the highway. Full throttle in third and hit the washer pump. Expect steam out the exhaust. ATF is highly detergent and will loosen and remove caked on oil and deposits usually within a weeks worth of driving. I would not run this if driving on the highway at high speeds or heavy throttle. If heavily grunged up this may overload the oil filter so check the dipstick often. If the oil is black and thick get it out for a change. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 I disagree on seafoam. Been using it with great results for ten years and I've sold thousands of cans of the stuff. I bought a pathfinder with low oil pressure and a knock that I flushed with it, then replaced the oil with 15-40. It was a little bit tired and rattly but I ran that engine as a daily driver for 2 years. I've also had cars fail emissions before and pass after using it, both running a tank of treated gas and sucking It through a vacuum line. I'm a firm believer. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Course it works, so does water. Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 Ummm... Mike... Sometimes I feel you reply to my last comment without taking into account the entire conversation, LoL. Not thinking of putting seafoam into my carb, but rather the crank case to help clear up the gunky radiator fluid/oil sludge that's in my engine now stuck to everything... Also, not worried about tons of carbon or oil deposits, the truck is a fairly recent rebuild that blew the head between cylinders(making I also never, and still don't, have fluid in my cylinders)... Already planned on doing multiple oil changes along with new filters and a motor medic treatment, but curious if other things are advisable to get this junk out of my engine? Will it happen quickly over a given period of mileage? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 It's a solvent and will dilute your oil, removing it's lubricating properties. Same as you wouldn't throw gas in with the oil either. Don't forget it has some dirty oil mixed with water still and a solvent isn't going to dissolve water, hell it floats on water. Get a couple of gallons of the cheapest oil you can buy and change it and the filter. Warm it up and drive around the block, change it again and the filter. There will be minimal water left and it will end up in the oil pan, and as it will float on top, it won't get circulated. It will come out with the next oil change. 1 Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Got two oil changes through it today. So far it's holding water and the oil is looking good. Want to go to electric fans. Not for hp, but for room AND I have a body lift, so the shroud mounts to the radiator, which mounts to the body and thusly sits 2" higher than the fan itself... The fan also flexes and comes close to the radiator. Closer than I like and I've become quite annoyed with the set up as it is with all this in and out... So I want to wire up an electric fan(or fans) in order to remove possible interference issues and to optimize cooling with directed air flow that a direct mounted fan/shroud offers. Any good suggestions of a donor to pull from? Any suggestions on a good fan controller? Quote Link to comment
poopypants720 Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Oh. N will get to installing the 38 and tuning it this week in short stints after work... Just happy for now it looks as though my coolant leak issues are remedied(I hope) and going back to here and there work for now... This push this weekend to finish, smog, then fix this issues has wore me out. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Just mount the radiator lower, that is what I would do and have done in the past. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 I'm a fan of 92-95 Ford Taurus. Two speed, high cfm, should fit that radiator ok. Also early 2000s Ford focus dual fan assemblies have a reputation for being high cfm quality units. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 so what was ther fix? Quote Link to comment
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