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well i picked up a 71 2 door the other day, it hasn't been run since 05 and now we're trying to get it running after some kids had messed with it.


so far we know we're not getting spark.

the coil is good, but no spark from it directly.

taking the ballast resistor out of the line didn't change anything

we're getting voltage to the distributer, but no from the coil


so.. any ideas on where to go from here? any common items to check.

it also has a new voltage regulator and a new relay, the plastic on next to the voltage regulator.


also, on the branch of the wiring harness that goes to the distributer, there is a yellow wire that currently doesn't have a connector on it, so i have no idea where that goes.


any insight would be great. and if this isn't clear let me know and i'll try to rephrase it.

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to add to this. we are getting voltage all the way to the coil, but still no spark. tried two coils, no luck. also it loook like someone wired the dizzy up so that it is no longer dual points but single points. anyone have a picture of a wired up complete factory dizzy with the cap taken off. this could help with some of our wiring problems.

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Who is who here? Velvet pants same as Gen4maxima?


1st get a haynes manual


Sounds like the points are not opening to me . Open the dist cap and make sure the points open up when its on a lobe. say .020 gap



when key is ON there will be 12volts on the positive side of the ballast(Put ballast back in line like it should be,what were you thinking?). Should be voltage at the coil if yes then adjust the points and that should be it. if not maybe there is a kill switch on the minus side grounding it out. Does the wiring look stock.


There will be a Hot start wire also that will go to the Plus side of the coil. Blk/blu wire. This will have 12v only in the start position this gives the coil a full 12v during a Load. make sure it goes to the + side coil. the other wire will be a blk/grn this should go to the down side of the ballst resistor. Really they are just "Y" spliced under the tape so when the key goes back to ON the power goes to the coil via tha ballast since a point system wants a Point resistance coil.


If a dual point car disconnect the wire goin to the distributor. this will be going to the smaller capicitor side. Where the bigger capcitor is hooked up is the main point wire(main points that you need)



So after you gap the points pull the center coil wire then put it near the chassis and hopefully it will spark cuase the point is charging and discharging the coil

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Im going from memeory here but the Blk/wht wire going to the ballst will have the 12volts Key ON .

I like the Test light cause it faster to use. Then go to the other side of ballast and hopefully the light will com ON. or if using a volt meter will be above 6 volts or so. 9,10 11volts I dont really know myself. If you have that then I asssume its OK.


The main point wire I think is a blk wire with a red stripe. You can ohn it out and should go to the minus side of the coil. if in dought just remove the wire from the coil then ohm it out.


what Jeff does in a situation lke this is get a test light and taKE THE ALLIGATOR CLIP END and put it on the distributor connector and put the other on the + side of battery. so when you start the car the distrbutor will spin and since the distributor is grounded altread the light should flash on and OFF, if it does then the distributor is ok. But make sure its about .020 gap on high side of the point lobe. Als ck anythin inside there that could be shorting this out.

I have done some L20 points (one with capcitor inside) and change them then car dont start and put back the old set then it runs. Then put the new set back in then it runs. I dont know what I did wrong the fisrt time but always ck



for some reason I cant load my diagram on here(attachments) I have a diagram on this


also if the points are open and the light doesnt flash or you ohm ck it for short and you physicall see the points opn maybe the cap is shorted.

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genfourmaxima also, on the branch of the wiring harness that goes to the distributer, there is a yellow wire that currently doesn't have a connector on it, so i have no idea where that goes.


Might be the wire to the temperature sender mounted in the base of the thermostat housing.

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the yellow wire isn't for the brake block, have to check the temp sensor.


The wire to the temp sender is Yellow with a smaller white stripe.

The wire to the second set of points (I didn't have a 510 so used several other vehicle wire diagrams with dual points, and they were all Blue with small yellow stripe, so this could be wrong.)

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bamn bitches!!!!!!! i kick ass. ok so i was like fuck it, its time for some more volt meter and a little factory service manual. figured out where all the wires went. and yes all 4 of those mystery wires were for the dual points. so that solved that problem. then my father came out and was like, "the coils not going to spark when u test it becuase it has to be grounded to spark" and it all made sence after that. so now it made sense that the coil was good and why i wasnt getting a signal from it. so then i realized i had a bad wire and thats why the low speed coil wasnt working. put a new wire in it, now i have good wires. soon after this i realized that the dizzy was the final problem. upon tearing it apart and putting the dual points back together, i saw the problem. the lash pad on the low speed and hi speed were not right. the low speed pad was completely gone. and the high speed was missing a small spring. so i went to my race 16, pulled the single point dizzy, instaled it with the 4 wires run together (hi and low speed points running at the same time). set it to top dead center and it fired on starting fluid. there is a fuck ton of jelled gas in the carb, so now im letting that clean out.

ps the honawitz race book came in handy, and hainz that video was great for the timing.

:D:D:Dyeah now rob is going to help me strip my engine bay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D:D:D

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The 2nd set of points(wire is for the 3rd gear switch which works of the switch that is on the firewall with that plasic box by the carb linkage. It donest kick in till 3rd gear to retard the ignition.

Thats why I say disconnect it. what ever the yellow wire going to the dist is I just remove it and tuck under some tape. I believe the is a red/blk wire of some short that is the main point wire that will go back to the minus side of the coil.(I was going to say just bypass them and route one wire to the - side coil.


No need to splice all them wire to gether. Since you said you have a L16 single point you could just get a Pertronix and use that and remove all theose wire and tuck them away.


Glad you got it running. it was EZ now find another Datsun and get it running!!!!!



For some reason I cant post photos anymore .

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  • 4 weeks later...

so back on topic.


i flushed out all the old gas and now theres some good fresh gas flowing though it.

the car will start but doesn't want to hold an idle and will die in a couple seconds. when opening up the throttle it doesn't change the engine speed.


this is the first time i've worked on a carb'd car, so any tips on tuning and rebuilding these stock carbs would be helpful.


from this point my plan is to recheck the timing, pull off the carb and give it a good cleaning, get the jets cleaned out in case their clogged. anything else i should add to the list to check?

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Stock carbs are hard to rebuild. Too many little pcs


does the accell pump work on the carb? see gas squirting in there? or is it stuck?


I worked on Tanas 521

she had carb issues, The carb looked good but I swapped out the coil and cked the distributor, The spark was fine and it was timmed to 10deg BTDC


Looked at the carb later and found it was also hard to start(sometimes)

I watch the accell pump squirt in but did notice it wasnt a steady streem of gas shooting in the main side barrel. She bought a weber DGV with the adapter and it has been good ever since.


Stock carbs after they are worn are more or less worthless in my book,Hard to rebuild correctly and better getting a Weber DGV if possible.


I always ck my coil wires to see if correct(another car)

ck mechanical timming and electrical timming at the dist,see if rorot is pointing on a wire(if motor,front cover removed,oil pump was removed ect)


this is a ez car to keep running but most dont want to spend on new parts

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which side of the carb would i be looking down for the accel pump?


when i was trying to check the timing going off the marks on the crank pulley and looking at the oil shaft its self it wasn't at that 11:30ish position more noon to 1. so i don't know if the oil pump/front cover have been messed with somewhere along the line.


thats also the thing i just want to get it running before trying to replace parts and wind up having more problems than i started with.


for reference, the timing marks on the crank pulley are (right to left) 15 B, 10 B, 5 B, 0, and 5ATDC correct?

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watch closely how differnt dist are pointing different ways. and the different mounts.


Well use a timming light first to see where it is timmed to.(MAKE SURE IT HAS FULL MOVEMENT. SHOULD GET 10DEG btdc EZILY

Maybe he rigged it up were it still is timmed.(Timming plate ,mount, oil pump might be adjeusted so it works)


My timming marks are 0 5 10 15 20 on my L16 on the craNK PULLEY


Look in the carb on the left side will be the accell pump.a lever will push on a diaphram ans should squirt gas in the left side of carb(valve cover side) see a stream of gas in there, this happens when cycling the carb

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