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Everything posted by gen4maxima536

  1. From what I've been able to understand, ported vacuum from the carb is - nothing at idle and air moves past the throttle plate this is where the vacuum comes from. But when hooking up to the manifold you will have full vacuum at idle and nothing at WOT. so at idle - full vacuum advance and no mechanical advance at WOT - no vacuum advance and full mechanical just flips your vacuum advance curve backwards Have a single DCOE on Dallas' 521, messed with the matchbox for a while and just decided to go MegaJolt JR. Bit of a jump but it is working out well so far.
  2. I'm looking for a set of Z car injectors and the associated plastic mounts, seals, and mounting screws. shipping would be to 98028.
  3. As far as I know it only came on 82/83 turbo 280zx. When you take the cap off it will have a flat metal disk inside rather than a six pointed star looking piece.
  4. As topic says, looking for the optical distributor that has the disk not the reluctor setup. need a pigtail for it also.
  5. I'll put my money on M6x1 for most of the body panels
  6. I've got these two one locking gas caps, i'm not sure what they fit. Looking for $20/each shipped, but will entertain offers This first one bought on ebay listed for a 510 wagon, but does not fit my early wagon. First one sold This second one might fit a late wagon, no idea.
  7. 100x100 http://www.whatupwilly.com/2006/01/in-n-out-100x100.html
  8. Is the motor mount (isolator) upside down?
  9. LKs Auto http://www.lksauto.com/ Give them a call, they did a friends fiero that has fully adjustable suspension, I've taken my daily there also
  10. Had a 510 line that was plugged, left it propped up in the sun for a couple days and the had varnish melted out
  11. gen4maxima536


    Woah, didn't notice. Good eye
  12. gen4maxima536


    The pipe plug in the block is probably tapered, if it isn't leaking i would leave it alone. Regarding the drums, just looks like they are bare steel/iron and the water trapped between the wheel and the drum was flowing out carrying rust with it, leaving the marks. Maybe clean them and hit them with some caliper paint.
  13. Just crappy used clutch disk/pressure plate. that's what i get for trying to skimp
  14. Well after trying out a different used clutch on the same flywheel and having the same issue; I had a different flywheel turned and picked up a new clutch. The new clutch worked. I had the correct throwout bearing collar already and the clutch slave was working fine, it was just something wrong with the clutch itself. now on to other issues.
  15. With Some stuff lately I have been checking prices on amazon also. With prime I get free two day shipping, and was able to find hawk pads for the maxima and clutch for the 510 cheaper than other online parts stores.
  16. So, Started out with an L16 + dogleg + 200mm flywheel and std 510 clutch Swapped in an L20 + 225mm flywheel and clutch and correct throwout bearing collar. While the car was in the air with the motor running, i could put in the clutch and shift just fine, this makes me think that the clutch and everything is working properly But upon putting the car back on the ground with the motor running and putting the clutch in, you can not shift into gear. it feels like the input shaft is still spinning with the clutch in, as the car will start to move. It will grind if you try to put it into reverse. Swapped in a different clutch but the problem continued. I'm running out of ideas.
  17. Weber looks like it has an adapter to put a stock air cleaner on it
  18. I got one from Chris, so i am no longer in need of one.
  19. doesn't Design Products Racing make a kit like this? http://designproductsracing.com/510_RearSuspension.html
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