starting issue

[gen4maxima536]

http://www.guba.com/general/search?query=datsun&set=5&x=13&y=10

 

watch closely how different dist are pointing different ways. and the different mounts.

 

i was talking about the oil pump shaft, not the direction of the rotor once the distributor is on.

 

looks like i'll have to get back out there and get some work done

[banzai510(hainz)]

Well just put motor to TDC O on crank. #2 cam lobe will be close to the 10 oclock position.

Now look thru at the oil pump/dist drive spindal it should be in the famous 11.28 position. If this is correct drop the dist in and the rotor should point to a plug wire(hopefully #1) the dist should have enough movement to adjust to 10deg BTEC using a timming light.

 

 

But Ill tell you I have one motor which was lined up correct as above but I had to move the spindal off a tooth to get the motor timmed cause the precvios owner grabed a differnt dist mount and the tang was in the wrong location cause there were 2 matchbox type distributors and it was off. So when we had it timmed as per my instruction the rotor was in between 1&3 plug wires(motor was hard to start and run correctly. But we found it by putting a timming light on there and find out iw wasnt even near 10deg BTDC. so that s when we loosen the 10mm bolt that holds down the distributor and just turn it untell it ran good. Then you know you have something misaligned and start on that.

 

But look at the accell pump also if gas is squirting in there. You never aid if it was working or not.

[gen4maxima536]

But look at the accell pump also if gas is squirting in there. You never aid if it was working or not.

 

yea i've been working 10-12 hours days, kinda killing all my car time

[gen4maxima536]

Well just put motor to TDC O on crank. #2 cam lobe will be close to the 10 oclock position.

Now look thru at the oil pump/dist drive spindal it should be in the famous 11.28 position. If this is correct drop the dist in and the rotor should point to a plug wire(hopefully #1) the dist should have enough movement to adjust to 10deg BTEC using a timming light.

 

 

But Ill tell you I have one motor which was lined up correct as above but I had to move the spindal off a tooth to get the motor timmed cause the precvios owner grabed a differnt dist mount and the tang was in the wrong location cause there were 2 matchbox type distributors and it was off. So when we had it timmed as per my instruction the rotor was in between 1&3 plug wires(motor was hard to start and run correctly. But we found it by putting a timming light on there and find out iw wasnt even near 10deg BTDC. so that s when we loosen the 10mm bolt that holds down the distributor and just turn it untell it ran good. Then you know you have something misaligned and start on that.

 

But look at the accell pump also if gas is squirting in there. You never aid if it was working or not.

 

so i pulled the valve cover and got the cyl 1 intake and exhaust cam lobes at 2 and ten respectively, but the oil pump shaft its self was at about a 12:30 position. so put the dizzy back on and the rotor was pointing south-west. once the cam shaft was in the right spot, looking at the timing marks on the crank pulley, the pointer was about 5 degrees (distance between the other timing marks) before the first timing mark on the crank pulley.

 

so at this point the car will start, but usually takes a little starting fluid. once it starts it revs up and then dies. we swapped carbs with one that was previously good and still have the same problem, but it is running better for those two seconds. also it is back-firing out of the carb so there has to be something else wrong.

 

so new list of things to check: fuel pump, timing again.

 

i'm really hoping the crank and cam aren't out of sync.

 

hainz, whats it take to get the weber dgv going as far as fuel and throttle linkage is concerned? its looking like a good option

[banzai510(hainz)]

to put a DGV on is ez and you just use the linkage from the 510.But you need the DGV carb adapter!!!!!

The stock carb just unscrew that12mm nut and pull that funky linkage where the datsun bar/arm goes thru to cycle the carb.

 

 

YOu never said if gas was squirting in the carb when the linkage is cycled. Should see gas going in there. If not there is no gas in the float bowl or the diaphrame is bad or stuck in the IN posistion.

 

Now as for timming. Put motor to TDC!!!!!!! should be the far most left notch on crank. or the Big one on the left. Now everything should line up.

If the spindal you say is in the 12.30 position what you can do to trouble shoot is just remove the 10mm bolt that holds down that distributor and just rotate by hand the rotor to #1 plug wire. Now hold it with your hand and have someone start the car. The car should now start ezer if it is WAS truely out of distributor time(not being able to dial it in) If this happens then the oil pump might be installed off one tooth. Now if it run ok then your carb is fine.

 

Of coarse you have the correct coil installed. just leave it stock untill you figure this out

 

If points still using the stock resisitve 1.6 ohm coil and the 1.6 ohm ballast resistor

 

if using a later 200sx Matchbox Ignition you use the correct coil from the car and Bypass the ballast resisitor.

 

 

Just make sure the motor is eleltrically and mechanically timmed before looking at a carb but I need INFO. You never said that the carb was squirting gas in and now the spindal is OFF so you have to tell us. So right now it can be 2 things!!!!!!!!! Carb or distributor timming.

 

I always thought my vid was good but maybe I should make another one on this issue of distributor install. As in the vid Motor is tdc. SPINDAL IS 11.28 and install the distributor then dial it in to the #1 plug wire with the rotor using the timming plate adjustemnts. Now it should dial in and motor should start and then tim it with a light. It should dial in to 10deg BTDC. and have enought movement for the timming.

 

But going to a earlier post you said you guys got this running!!!!!!!!!!!So what changed since then?????????

 

answer all the questions otherwise I dont want to repeat myself. alot of people dont say I did this and that and I find something obvious!!!!!!!that should have not been done.

 

 

Now look at the photos closely below.

1 is the crank and its the most left timming mark should be bigger(0)

2 is the spindal and it should look like its in the 11.28 position. if you put a screw driver across it it will be right of the top hole left on the bottom hole.

3 if the crank is on zero the cam sprocket V will line up to the dash on the plate.

 

But this is in the vid I sent you and if this is all correct it you make it correct and the coil fires then well look else where.

[banzai510(hainz)]

photo of oil/pump and spindal

Should be installed at 0 deg TDC and when locked down comes out in the 1128 position

[gen4maxima536]

to put a DGV on is ez and you just use the linkage from the 510.But you need the DGV carb adapter!!!!!

The stock carb just unscrew that12mm nut and pull that funky linkage where the datsun bar/arm goes thru to cycle the carb.

 

 

YOu never said if gas was squirting in the carb when the linkage is cycled. Should see gas going in there. If not there is no gas in the float bowl or the diaphrame is bad or stuck in the IN posistion.

 

Now as for timming. Put motor to TDC!!!!!!! should be the far most left notch on crank. or the Big one on the left. Now everything should line up.

If the spindal you say is in the 12.30 position what you can do to trouble shoot is just remove the 10mm bolt that holds down that distributor and just rotate by hand the rotor to #1 plug wire. Now hold it with your hand and have someone start the car. The car should now start ezer if it is WAS truely out of distributor time(not being able to dial it in) If this happens then the oil pump might be installed off one tooth. Now if it run ok then your carb is fine.

 

Of coarse you have the correct coil installed. just leave it stock untill you figure this out

 

If points still using the stock resisitve 1.6 ohm coil and the 1.6 ohm ballast resistor

 

if using a later 200sx Matchbox Ignition you use the correct coil from the car and Bypass the ballast resisitor.

 

 

Just make sure the motor is eleltrically and mechanically timmed before looking at a carb but I need INFO. You never said that the carb was squirting gas in and now the spindal is OFF so you have to tell us. So right now it can be 2 things!!!!!!!!! Carb or distributor timming.

 

I always thought my vid was good but maybe I should make another one on this issue of distributor install. As in the vid Motor is tdc. SPINDAL IS 11.28 and install the distributor then dial it in to the #1 plug wire with the rotor using the timming plate adjustemnts. Now it should dial in and motor should start and then tim it with a light. It should dial in to 10deg BTDC. and have enought movement for the timming.

 

But going to a earlier post you said you guys got this running!!!!!!!!!!!So what changed since then?????????

 

answer all the questions otherwise I dont want to repeat myself. alot of people dont say I did this and that and I find something obvious!!!!!!!that should have not been done.

 

 

Now look at the photos closely below.

1 is the crank and its the most left timming mark should be bigger(0)

2 is the spindal and it should look like its in the 11.28 position. if you put a screw driver across it it will be right of the top hole left on the bottom hole.

3 if the crank is on zero the cam sprocket V will line up to the dash on the plate.

 

But this is in the vid I sent you and if this is all correct it you make it correct and the coil fires then well look else where.

 

ok so when cycling the carb you can hear gas going into the manifold, i'm not sure if it was spraying but i could hear it.

 

yea so it looks like the oil pump shaft is off but a tooth or two, so i did just that. put the motor at tdc (by looking at the cam lobes) then adjusted the dizzy with the bolt that holds it to the pedestal, i was about out of adjusting room when i got it to the correct position.

 

earlier dallas said it was running, but that was just that we had figured out the wiring situation and got some spark going. but then we found carb issues.

 

so today i switched out fuel pumps also since the old one was shooting lots of gas into the oil. but i left the spacer on, now i think i need to take it off since i didn't have one previously and now its not getting enough gas to fill the float bowl.

 

i think i answered all the questions.

 

so i started it up with some starting fluid and it ran well for about ten seconds, no backfiring out either end, no reving up on its own. so its getting better, but just the fuel issue now.

 

we swapped in a Hitachi carb that has an electric choke and a different emissions thing on it, but the linkage on the carb is too short for the linkage thats mounted on the firewall, so minor issue at the moment. i'm not sure what its off. hopefully the jets aren't too big.

 

there is only one way for the crank pulley to go on, correct? so i'm guessing i'm going to have to tear into the front of this thing and get the crank and the cam lined up, since the timing marks are still off before the pointer when the cam is at TDC.

[banzai510(hainz)]

ok so when cycling the carb you can hear gas going into the manifold, i'm not sure if it was spraying but i could hear it.

 

Did you look in there and SEE IT Squirting and HOW did it look like. Like a solid squirt or like when your done Peeing? It matters

 

yea so it looks like the oil pump shaft is off but a tooth or two, so i did just that. put the motor at tdc (by looking at the cam lobes) then adjusted the dizzy with the bolt that holds it to the pedestal, i was about out of adjusting room when i got it to the correct position.

 

If your maxed out on the adjustment to get it timmed I still think the pump could be off. LIke I said 0 on crank then install the distributor and the distrbutor mount should like be in the middle position(timming plate) why I say this is I think once you give it gas the distributor goes out of its timming range and can CUT OUT. Thats why I say for trouble shooting porpose just take out that 10mm hold down screw and just keep turning the dist to see if it runs better.

 

earlier dallas said it was running, but that was just that we had figured out the wiring situation and got some spark going. but then we found carb issues.

 

watch closly fast fwd to the parts you need

http://www.guba.com/general/search?query=datsun&set=5

 

so today i switched out fuel pumps also since the old one was shooting lots of gas into the oil. but i left the spacer on, now i think i need to take it off since i didn't have one previously and now its not getting enough gas to fill the float bowl.

This can be a proplem!!!!!!

 

i think i answered all the questions.

 

so i started it up with some starting fluid and it ran well for about ten seconds, no backfiring out either end, no reving up on its own. so its getting better, but just the fuel issue now.

 

we swapped in a Hitachi carb that has an electric choke and a different emissions thing on it, but the linkage on the carb is too short for the linkage thats mounted on the firewall, so minor issue at the moment. i'm not sure what its off. hopefully the jets aren't too big.

 

there is only one way for the crank pulley to go on, correct? so i'm guessing i'm going to have to tear into the front of this thing and get the crank and the cam lined up, since the timing marks are still off before the pointer when the cam is at TDC.

 

Dude You go by the crank timming on 0(zero) The crank only goes on one way!!!!!

You put the crank to Zero then see where the cam is. Most of the time unless someone else did the motor the chain could be off a tooth but if it hasnt been apart its probaply fine.

 

Remember if the distributor /oil pump spindaAL IS off IT CAN MAKE THE CAR LOOK LIKE THE CARB IS BAD.

But I dont know if this car was running before you guys got it or what but this is a ez fix.

[banzai510(hainz)]

From beginning

 

Put crank on 0 deg go clockwise and keep the chain titie. Just look thru the valve cover the lobe should be close to the 10 o clock poistion.

 

Now remove the distributor and see if its in the 11.28 position. You seen the photos!!!!!!! If not fix this first.

 

Once fixed put the distributor in and see if the rotor will be right on the #1 plug wire. You should have some movemnt in the distributor timming ppLATE FWD/RETARD. that car should be able to be timmined to 10deg ezily.

 

If proplems still exists ck the point gap/condensor(POUINTS SHOULD BE OPEN) but then look at the carb.

See if gas squirts in there. If a good solid stream then the car at least will start. If dies after you let off the gas a Idle jeyt could be plugged. Just keep pushing on the gas to use the acell pump on the carb to inject gas in to the manifold and motor should still run.

 

But do the things I said first.

 

really the vid covers it all.

 

 

PS the fuel pump needs a spacer otherwise it BENDS THE ARM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! one spacer

Who in the fuck didnt put the spacer on??????

[gen4maxima536]

so i can get it to run and drive it around a bit after it warms up but still when the cam lobes for the #1 cyl are at 10&2 the crank pulley looks like this

 

 

so i'm going to pull the front cover and follow hainz's video which i downloaded, so i can get the timing totally right. i dont know how someone screwed this up in the past.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Put the mark on the 2nd notch(the big one) FIRST on the pulley!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I say again to this FIRST!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

That is TDC top dead center then look at where the V is on the cam sprocket and the cam tower dash. if very close to the photo shown then its OK.

 

Then ck to see if spindal is 11.28 position and rotor lines up on #31 plug wire.

 

 

So I hope you understand what Im saying. Line up the block to TDC first. everything is based on this. so put crack to 0deg which is the big notch on the crank pully. then you go up top and see that the lobes are in the 10 2 position but really look at where the V notch is on the sprocket and see if it lines up with the dach on the plate as in the photo. This will be cam timming(based on crank timming at 0)

[gen4maxima536]

Well after a set back that required a new head, or helicoiling the spark plug hole that stripped out, its finally running great. maybe i'll drive it around a little next weekend.

i ended up getting a u67 head to put on.

 

hainz, that video was a great help, i watched it quite a few times just to make sure i was going to do everything right. i don't want to do it again.

 

i'm still using a points dizzy, but i know it works so i wanted to start with that before putting my matchbox dizzy on it.

also got a weber dgev. its a hell of a lot better than that Hitachi i started out with that had a botched rebuild.

 

next step, remove automatic tranny, and tune the carb

[dat521gatherer]

ahh so its the second notch thats bigger than the rest. tdc on the older l16's.

 

i have webers on both my 521's and wont look back.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Gen4 maxima

The big notch on the crank is O .this is what I line everything up.

 

when running the motor 10BTDC is about the normal timming setting

as for being 20degs on the crank this will stlill look like its 10 & 2 oclock position on the cam lobes

It all close enough to get it running and do some adjustments

[gen4maxima536]

Gen4 maxima

The big notch on the crank is O .this is what I line everything up.

 

when running the motor 10BTDC is about the normal timming setting

as for being 20degs on the crank this will stlill look like its 10 & 2 oclock position on the cam lobes

It all close enough to get it running and do some adjustments

 

 

that pic was from before i opened up the timing cover and re did the timing, it was off a link or two.

then i had it all back together and i started it and a spark plug shot out of the hole, hit the battery, broke in half and landed on the carb. it was freaking loud.

 

so put the new head on, and re did the timing again, when i should have put a block in to hold the chain.

now it holds a good idle unlike over the summer it would die after a bit.