theeoracle Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 Well I had an eventful Christmas. I went to start my fresh L20b rebuild and a con rod cap fell off, chalk it up to experience on my first rebuild. ;( Well at least the damage isn't all that bad. It'll just cost me more time and money. So i'm thinking if i just get it bored that bolt imprint shouldn't be a big problem. What do you guys think? and does anybody have some l20b pistons ITM or something, with rings if possible, any compression in the 8s, or 9s will work, .040 also since one of my con rod caps got bent, ill also need a l20b conrod. The stock con rods are numbered for the cylinder, does it matter if they don't go back in the original position? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 Any 145.9mm L20B or early Z22 rod will do the trick. In this instance any number will do but get a matched rod and cap for the broken one. If the bore is measured and found within tolerance you can hone and reuse your pistons with cheap cast iron rings. If over boring get over size pistons first and have bored to match. If a fresh bore and finish you can use chrome rings. Next time get a check list and have someone check your work. 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 wow! what do you think caused it not torqued? forgot a nut? 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 and that looks like the bolt imprint is at the very bottom of the cyl. it it is i would just hit the very bottom with a honer to make sure no burrs are in the cylinder. sooo ARP con rod bolts this time :angel: ? 1 Quote Link to comment
theeoracle Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 i'm planning on getting the cylinders bored .04" over and getting ITM pistons. and definitely going to use ARP studs this time. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 That's a bummer! Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 I've relieved hits like that with a die grinder and a flap wheel and they've lived, gotta make sure it's not going to pinch the piston in there, measure around the area verrry carefully if doing that, wouldn't hurt to magnaflux where it hurt to make sure there isn't a crack. Wouldn't hurt to check your torque wrench too. Also helps not using 40 year old used bolts too 1 Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 Sorry to see that. Good luck with it. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 ARP bolts will do that also if skipped over when torquing them down. It would have made a hell of a noise before doing that. A good reason to run a muffler so you can hear things. I think SB chevy rod bolts will fit also. Quote Link to comment
theeoracle Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 ARP bolts will do that also if skipped over when torquing them down. It would have made a hell of a noise before doing that. A good reason to run a muffler so you can hear things. I think SB chevy rod bolts will fit also. yea it was header only. Do you have or know of anyone who has a 145.9mm conrod? 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 yea it was header only. Do you have or know of anyone who has a 145.9mm conrod? I have a full set and maybe just one if you cannot find one nearer you. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 check with the datlife crew 1 Quote Link to comment
theeoracle Posted December 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 Well my crank actually is f'ed up after all. It's indented on the num 1 cylinder. I think it would be cheaper if I just get a z22 bottom end and slap on my l20b head. Rather then getting a new crank and ge ting the block bored. Plus I get a few extra hp. What do you guys think? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 Just depends on what parts you can find and how much they cost. What is your goal? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 pics of indent on crank? can it be ground out? why do you need to overbore, the dent is on the very bottom of the cylinder right? over sized bearings and a crank grind would probably be cheaper easier, as you would probably have to go through the whole bottom end on the z block as it is, bored out new bearings, rings... Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 this pic is telling me it's at the bottom, due to the rough casted iron. and if thats the case hit smushed metal with a stick honer or hand sand it out Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 or i dont think the water jackets go that low so dremel it out a bit, rings will never go that low maybe a piston lobe but if worked flush or even indented a cunt hair you will be fine, now the crank is hard to say Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 Best to rebuild a Z22 block. (everything below the head) Swap EVERYTHING from the L20B except the block/crank/rods/pistons onto the Z22 block. Any L20B U67 or W58 head will work with manifolds. Quote Link to comment
theeoracle Posted December 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 Best to rebuild a Z22 block. (everything below the head) Swap EVERYTHING from the L20B except the block/crank/rods/pistons onto the Z22 block. Any L20B U67 or W58 head will work with manifolds.Ok so the bore on the z22 is the same as the l20b. I want new pistons. And rings. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 And if you decide to rebuild the Z22, be sure you tighten the rod bolts. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 Ok so the bore on the z22 is the same as the l20b. I want new pistons. And rings. Of course not. The Z22 is 87mm. You could over bore the L20B's 85mm by 2mm to '87mm and fit Z22 crank/rods/pistons too. Lots of options here. The Z22 block is already 87mm and could be bored 2mm to 89mm and KA pistons fitted for a 2.3 liter engine. That would be 4mm over bore on an L20B block which is a bit much. 1 Quote Link to comment
theeoracle Posted December 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 And if you decide to rebuild the Z22, be sure you tighten the rod bolts. Nah I think I'm going to stick with a l20b for now. I don't want to port match the head and block. In trying to get this rebuild done quick. check with the datlife crewDatlife crew? I'm a noob Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 http://community.ratsun.net/user/12107-busta-nut/ ask him Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 When I build a L motor with stock rod bolts, I use red Loctite on the threads. Always have, always will. ARP bolts get a special anti seize lube. Quote Link to comment
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