MattC55 Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 I have been googling for several days and have yet to find a definitive answer in regards to if this were the right place to plug. I have the "loop" in place that the PO put in due to leaky old hoses, and I have marked in red where I believe the plugs should be put. Am I correct? And should i just do the ol' bolt and hose clamp trick? Here is a shot of the rest of the line: Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Instead of a bolt use a copper pipe cap that fits into the size of heater hose you now have and of course a hose clamp. E.G. one half inch copper pipe end cap in a three quarter inch hose. Copper pipe caps usually have a one sixteenth inch wall thickness. Pipe size is ID. Quote Link to comment
MattC55 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 I appreciate that, will go by lowes this wkd and grab a couple. About placement, are my pictures correct? Or am I to remove that black hose running the length of my block and meets at the larger hose, and plug there instead? Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Run a hose from the fitting on the back of the head to the fitting on the back of the lower radiator hose inlet. Makes a loop for collant to run through until you can get the new hoses in place. No need to plug anything. Quote Link to comment
MattC55 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Copy that Doc, although I already have that in place (see pic 1), And I was told by Datzenmike that this was a serious no-no but after all the threads I have read.. It seems like a heated debate still. What's your take on it? Is my loop safe to run? Appreciate any opinions, for better or worse! 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 I live in AZ and have no use for a heater in my car, 72 & 68 510 wagons and a 74 620. I have run that by-pass in many race prepped 510's with no issues. Due respect to Datzenmike. Quote Link to comment
MattC55 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Of course, no slander meant for Mike in any way, I brought him up because of his status on the forum. Seems like a nice guy! I will not be using the heater regardless so I suppose if it ain't broke.... Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 I have a loop, no issues. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 This was already asked and answered here... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/67778-a-kansas-z-rescue/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1308951 It will hook up and run either correctly or in a loop. BUT if you loop it, you are by passing some hot water past the rad. It would be better to plug the hose ends and not flow using a loop. Best would be to get the heater working, winter is coming. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 It's best to plug them individually instead of looping a hose around. The way the coolant circulates, looping it creates a hot spot in the system, a hot spot that is normally cooled by the heater core. Plug them instead. Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Fine fine fine, I'll plug mine....before next Canby ;) Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 I do not know about all the other Datsuns, but a 521 when you turn the water valve for the heater to "cold" position, coolant is stopped in the heater hoses. So, if you need to eliminate the heater, plug the heater hoses. However, if your engine is starting to overheat, turning the heater on may be what makes it possible to drive far enough that you can deal with the problem, instead of being stranded. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 I've done this several times in hot weather. The heater core is simply a smaller rad and in a pinch it does add cooling at the expense of an over heated cab. Again, it's not the end of the world to run that loop but in the summer, but if hot. it could cause an over heat condition. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Kansas gets cold!!!!!!!!!window fogs up You really want to do this? Quote Link to comment
MattC55 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Actually Banzai, I have no choice as of now! The P/O did it, and I was just making sure he did it the RIGHT way, no hodge podge crap! Until I can replace the lines and/or the heater itself, it's the good ol shiver routine again. Of course, I had no heat or air in my el camino.... Or the impala..... Or the styleline.... And now my eclipse really isn't blowing as hot as it used to... :sweat: Guess I'm a sucker for freezing to death and then slow roasting in the summer.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 My 521 heater crapped one winter in Ontario. Took the heater assy out of my '69 Charger and stood it up between the seats and ran longer hoses to it. Not much room but it blew hot air forward along the roof and defrosted the windows really well. What ever it takes.... 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Actually Banzai, I have no choice as of now! The P/O did it, and I was just making sure he did it the RIGHT way, no hodge podge crap! Until I can replace the lines and/or the heater itself, it's the good ol shiver routine again. Of course, I had no heat or air in my el camino.... Or the impala..... Or the styleline.... And now my eclipse really isn't blowing as hot as it used to... :sweat: Guess I'm a sucker for freezing to death and then slow roasting in the summer.... Go to your nearest truck stop and buy a 12v ceramic heater, don't use the cigarette lighter plug in (its pop fuses) use the alternative straight wiring with inline fuse already included, $29.00 well spent, kept me from freezing couple winters ago in Montana when my heater decided to crap out in my truck. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Im sure JC whitney or other sell basic boxwater heater rads with fans Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Flex-a-lite makes some retrofit heaters that are really nice and also not too expensive. Some of them come with fans, others do not. Summit carries one of them, but you can get the idea from here: http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/cooling-heating/section/heaters/brand/flex-a-lite?N=4294950709%2B4294925636%2B400226&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I would not get an electric heater. To make heat, that requires watts. Even if you have a 100 amp alternator, that means you have about 1400 watts total to run all the electrical stuff in the car. Alternator watts are not free. The more current your alternator has to make, the greater load on the engine. Less power to move you down the road. More gasoline used to move you. Coolant heat is free. The engine is trying to get rid of heat. When the heater is off, the thermostat opens more, and that heat is dumped out the radiator. There are also heaters made for boats with inboard engines. Search for a company called Heatercraft. 1 Quote Link to comment
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