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hello fellas!!!


dat521kid

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yeah the carb is giving me trouble........ you guys know if the l24 from a 240z will be a direct swap i wanna go fast i tried searching but nothing found

 

Nope. The experts can correct me, but I believe you have to do massive firewall cutting to get a straight 6 in there. Besides, a well-running L will go fast enough to get you all the tickets you want. :D

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Welcome! Always nice to have another 521 on teh scene! And yours looks to be in great shape. i believe you have the rare red knob on that dash too, cool.

 

Think l20b for ease and a little more umph.

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welcome, 521's rule!! nice truck have you had it long? how much did you pay? i like your gas pedal rubber pad. 521's never came with gas pedal rubber pads. if you plan on keeping your stock fuse box i may have a top for it you can have.:) cool dash cover also. all 4 hub caps is a plus and it looks like you have a fm radio without cutting up the dash.:cool: looks like you may need some heater parts like the duct boot and valve knob.

 

are you sure it's your carb giving you grief? remove your distributor cap and rotate your engine to make sure the magnets aren't rubbing on the hub. you should see a air gap on all four sides. if they rub your engine will backfire and run like shit. although it's not a common problem it did happen to me. also pull the spark plugs and check them. they should be gaped at .040-.044 if that is a electronic distributor. looks like it is. hmm it looks like i see a ballast resister. if it's still hooked up and not bypassed then your not getting the full benefits of the electronic distributor. if the ballast is still hooked up run your spark plug gaps at .032

 

i see your running 2 fuel filters. i too have a club on mine.

 

tell us your story.

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thanks!!! im proud owner since march of this year, cost: $1,200 cause dude said carb was rebuilt (he lied) since ive owned it i have installed new ngk spark plugs, lowered it with 2 inch blocks, flushed radiator, added electronic distributor, starter gave up and replaced it, tranny broke so i had to replace that with another 4 speed, added amber lights off a benz and went to the yard in search of seatbelts, found some off a volvo and tadah!!! i have 3 point belts. i got some ellipsoid bmw lights but need to fabricate to fit on my truck.. i do need a fuse box cover cause my lights randomly turn off while im driving due to exposed fuse box and i need driver side window regulator and a diff carb. in due time i want to add bumperetts, disk brakes and 5 speed.

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also, my fuel gage always says empty i think its the thing (i dunno what its called) on top of the tank, you know the one thats visible from the little panel on the bed phew!! that was alot

 

Does your temp gage work in your cluster? If both meters are dead it could be the regulator on the back of the cluster pod.

 

There is also a ground that comes off the tank and connects to the frame, can't hurt to clean that too!

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i see something hanging, is it a cylinder silver color? how do i get to the ground?

 

 

That is the flasher (for your blinkers).

The float in the tank could be bad or it could be a cluster issue. Are your dash lights (light, blinkers) working? the regulater is on the back of the cluster - hard to see..

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my dash lights work although i wish they be brighter, my blinkers work most of the time but they are a little dim and slow

 

Slow blinkers, no temp gauge, no fuel gauge. Common link is poor ground. Next is the voltage regulator behind the printed circuit board in the gauge cluster. Rectangular box with tab that bolts to the PC board. Clean the tab and tighter the mounting screw before doing anything heroic.

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yeah after reading many threads and posts, seems like best idea is to clean connections first and guess what my truck wasnt giving me spark so i cleaned a couple of connections and yeah she starts right up... anyhow, where do i find the ground for my gagues? and how do i get to my voltage regulator? do i take my whole dash apart?

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