Brohemius Posted June 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 Pulled my seats to clean the floor of my cab. It was pretty dirty. Found some rust. More. Seats out. Innards. It cleaned up pretty good. See you all at canby!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 13, 2015 Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 Looks good, Enjoy Canby! Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted June 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Grabbed an engine stand tonight, only paid 20 bucks! Now i have a stand to build the lz23 on :) Also while at harlows today he hooked me up with a connector to make my tachometer works! Oics of the working tac next time i drive it. That photo of my interior without seats if before cleanup fyi, i didnt get one after. Ratsun pin will be mounted in my shift knob soon aswell. Still need to install this stuff! Along with bearings. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 So after talking with my machinist/engine builder friend i think im going to do a v6 swap. My questions to ratsun are, how much fabrication should i expect to do? And how long do you think my rear end will hold up to the power increase? The machinist told me there should be very little fab necessary with the engine he is thinking about using. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Minimum motor mounts, trans mount, driveshaft(s). Rear end will take a good flogging for a good while. The 200mm rear ends can survive mid 200s hp just fine. If it goes beyond that just swap to a hardbody hb233 rear axle. It's a little wider but manageable and can handle almost anything you throw at it. Everything else will just have to be figured out as you go along. What engine are you thinking? 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Thanks for the input lockleaf! We had already discussed my machinist customizing my driveshaft. And the motor/tranny mounts are a must. As for the rear end, we had discussed a ford 9 inch in the future. not sure how that stacks against the hb233 axle though? Al chime in here since your the only person who i know of who has done a v6 swap in a datsun!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Hb233 measures out at 9 1/4 inches. Strength wise, it is considered by off-road guys to be noticeably stronger than a Dana 44, but a little bit weaker than a Dana 60. That ring and pinion is also what was installed in turbo z32s so it can take a serious beating. They also have disc brake options available and hey it keeps it in the Nissan family. Also there is this guys build. http://steverr.tripod.com/Index.html 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted June 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 Thanks for the info again lockleaf!! Ill look into rear end options once i get a down payment on the motor. What would you guys say is a fair price for a complete engine rebuild, complete remachining of everything, ported head, custom drive shaft, motor mounts, tranny support, fab work, and basically everything it needs to get into my truck and run? Would love some feedback. 1 Quote Link to comment
arizonajones Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 is your current engine not working out, or are you just looking to increase your HP? 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted June 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 The engine is flat and needs rebuilding in my opinion, so i want to just swap it and go for some hp. Again what would you guys say is a decent price on a my above question? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 What would you guys say is a fair price for a complete engine rebuild, complete remachining of everything, ported head, custom drive shaft, motor mounts, tranny support, fab work, and basically everything it needs to get into my truck and run? This is actually an incredibly difficult question. There are a huge number of variables. Most important questions - what engine, attached to what trans. Machining prices vary by where you are located. Cheap engine rebuild kits cost 1/3 of what top quality rebuild kits cost. Custom fabrication prices are all over the place. Where I live, a six cylinder head, decking it and machining valve seats, New valve stern seals, but insisting using old valve train will run about $200 a head. Bore and hone is about $25 per cylinder. Decking block around $125. Line bore about $100. Any other work is about $100 -125 an hour. Custom fab is around $75-125 per hour around here. How many hours of work it will take will depend on how much effort it takes to install the engine swap and how good/fast the fabricator is. Exhaust, plan on at least $300. Driveshafts, very minimum I would expect is $200 but likely more. Custom electrical work gets stupid expensive stupid fast. Honestly, I wouldn't plan on less than $4000 total if you are paying someone to do the work. It could easily go beyond that. If you are doing things yourself, everything changes and be done for much less. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted July 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 Thanks for the feedback lockleaf! Very helpful. I was quited considerably less than 4k for all i mentioned, so im glad to know ill be getting a deal. Swapped my wheels/tires last night, for some slotted mags. No pics of the wheels. My lady got this pic though lol. Ill throw some oics up of the wheels tonight. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted July 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 Wheel oics. Im liking these alot. Got a set of rallys in the works also, thinkin a white powdercoat on the rallys. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 It's always hard to go wrong with a classic like slot mags. Looks good, even the offset seems decent. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted July 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 Headed over to Denmarkboy's house yesterday and finally did my front end work! Unbolted all the old bs hardware. Seems long overdue. Shit was crusty and worn. Lower ball joint area also crazy dirty. Hub off and ready for the ball joints to be pounded out. This is where the lower ball joint bolts on... So nasty. New parts installed on drivers side. Spindle back on and ready for bearings on driver side. Onto the passenger side. And midway through the day, here is the mess so far. Tie rods and idler arm installed on passenger side. (Despite the major nasty when the lower ball joints bolts up there was no rust when i cleaned it up a bit) Ball joints bolted up. And spindle back on passenger side ready for bearings. No pictures of the bearing job because, well... GREASE! And on a side note the little hookers radiator blew while Al took me for a ride to the auto parts store... Bum deal. Atleast it was a good ride :) . Thanks again for the help and knowledge Al. I appreciate it greatly. 4 Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 Great job on your truck, you did a great job for your first time rebuilding the front end. What little help I supplied only kept you flying right along. And yeah splitting that radiator wasn't fun . But the crazy ass burn out'S " completely worth it!" 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 Nice work guys. Need to do same to my king cab. 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 Did you do a driveway alignment or have it put up on a rack? 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted July 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 Thanks guys! It was fun but my brain was burnt out by the end... I lost my ratchet and then al pointed at the caliper wich the ratchet was hanging from :) . Alignment... I basically tried to set the tie rods to match the old ones. So not really an alignment to speak of haha. Im gonna get it aligned by the weekend, the tires squeal pretty good around even moderate turns. Merging onto 126 it was a long enough squeal to smell some rubber. Atleast my bearing dont sound like railway hand carts now. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted July 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 Decided to mount up a delete plate while i was bored tonight. Masked of the big areas, just cause. Touched up with some silver. Backing plate mocked up. (i painted it black before mounting it.) And the delete plate done and mounted. Looks better than the giant hole did. I made it so it should pop out when i get a better center console. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 16, 2015 Report Share Posted July 16, 2015 Brohemius are you interested in a set of the voly oil gauges that go on the console? I have a console I do not need. I will take pictures in the next couple of days and post them. Is you console a 2WD or a 4WD? I will pm you. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted July 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Thanks charlie, my truck is 2wd, and so is the console i believe. Found a new bed for my truck! Getting the bed and floorboards from a donor rig. Maybe some other stuff. Also have paint in the works... Lots of plans... Lets see how much i execute. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 You will need the longer console piece. I hope to get some pictures soon for you. Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Got the truck aligned today... Still pulls left slightly, probably gonna take it back in and ask them to make it better. Thats the only update for now. 1 Quote Link to comment
Justin Berni Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Didn't they give you a piece of paper with your specs and what factory specs are?? 1 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.