84720FourWheel Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Moog is a good choice. I'd do the pitman arm too. If your idler is bad the pitman probably isn't far behind. If you still have more than 1 inch of play in the steering, then adjust the steering box. Slowly, about 1/8th of a turn at a time, until you get to a little under an inch. Not sure where the adjustment bolt/nut is, as I don't have my FSM or truck in front of me. I'd guess if its anything like a chevy its on the top of the box. Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted April 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Im not assuming its the steering box rhino. I know its loose as hell. Thats also why i said i want to just tighten mine if i can. The idler arm is in pretty good shape even after having no bushing for a while. Seems solid And doesnt look warped or anything. Pitman arm seems totally fine also. 81Svn20 that seems like a really good deal. Do we know who makes those parts? And if they are durable and worth while. Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Todays update: Got some fresh new tires, feels good to have some nice rubber. Drives smoother and stops better too :) So... While in the process i discovered a few issues. Almost every lug nut was stripped to hell and full of metal burrs... So after seeing that i got new lugs... Only to discover one maybe 2 bent studs, while the rest are rusted and partially stripped also.. Fantastic! It Took almost an hour to put the lugs back on ONE wheel. Lots of wire wheel and wd later i have 5 out of 6 lugs on and torqued. Time to get full stud replacements on the front end... Maybe the back depending on the condition. Might as well just take the whole damn front end off a different 720 at this point. Are the wheel bearing always a bastard to replace? Seems like everytime ive seen a bearing replaced it had to be cut off or something drastic. 1 Quote Link to comment
arizonajones Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 What size tires are you running? Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 205 55r16 Quote Link to comment
petercscherer Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 The wheel bearings aren't that bad to replace on the 720. You'll still need to hammer or press the old bearing race out if the hub, but that only took me 10 minutes (And 1 smashed thumb...). :cool: ~Peter 2 Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 shit I love those welds ! looks good , see you Saturday 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted April 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Had fun on saturday Al! So im looking to order wheel bearings for the front end. Ive never done a bearing job before and never watched one done on a datsun. Rock auto shows inner and outer bearing for the front end. Do i need both of these? They seem the same to me. Also is there any other parts i need besides the bearings themselves? Sorry for the noob questions. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted April 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 Bump. Still wondering the above question. 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted April 12, 2015 Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 You'll need inner and outer bearings, and bearing races they may be the same part number. Some times the bearings come with races, or you have to buy them separate. You'll need a punch to drive out the old races, being careful to not hit the inside of the hub. Try to drive it out as straight as possible. You will also need grease to pack the bearing. You can do it by hand or with a bearing packer. Look up some videos on that, as that will explain it better than I can through text. You have to drive the new races into the hub, a seal driver roughly the size of the race works well. You also have to adjust the bearing preload. It's 2-4 lbs to rotate the hub on the 4x4, not sure if it's the same on 2wd. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted April 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 Thank you very much fourwheel!! Just what i wanted to know and then some. I appreciate it man. Here is the list Im finalizing of parts to order for the front end. Does anyone see any obvious things im missing that should be done while im doing all the rest? 1. Upper ball joint x2 2. Lower ball joint x2 3. Inner tie rod x2 4. Outer tie rod x2 5. Inner wheel bearings (front) x2 6. Outer wheel bearings (front) x2 Thats it for the steering/suspension on my list. Other list of stuff at the moment. 1. Distributor cap and rotor. 2. Valve cover gasket. 3. Lug studs 12x for now, may need more. 4. Carburetor rebuild kit. 5. All belts, gotta find the specs on sizes first. Chiltons doesnt list sizes that i can find. 6. Gl-4 gear oil. I cannot find this stuff locally!! Gl-5 is all ive found. After all that comes sound supression and some neon seats. 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted April 12, 2015 Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 Royal purple 75 90 is yellow metal safe. I know advance auto and auto zone stock it. It's 20 bucks a quart though. You can buy gl4 off amazon for cheaper though. 2 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted April 12, 2015 Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 Don't forget the wheel bearing grease, multi purpose grease tube and gun, assuming the new ball joints and tie rods have grease zerks. Your local auto parts store should probably be able to look up the belts for it, if not they can measure it and get you the right one. 2 Quote Link to comment
denmarkboy Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 Sorry for the noob questions. Some day you will be the one passing on the knowledge , so no worries . Sorry for the slow reply dude , just been spinning in circles busy . And it looks like 84720fourwheel gave you some great insight to what you need . And if your going that far you might as well get it all, and do it all . 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 These are the wheel bearings I use. TIMKEN Part # SET3 Wheel Bearing & Race Set Front Outer; RWD $5.54 each set TIMKEN Part # SET5 Wheel Bearing & Race Set Front Inner; RWD $5.92 each set 2 sets of each part # needed for doing left and right sides 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 I don't know if the bearings are the same for the earlier 720s. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted April 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 Thanks for the knowledge everybody!! Charlie, i have those same ones in my rockauto cart. Al! Thanks im hoping to make this truck badass! As for the repairs, ya mind if i bring it to your place for the action? Youve got lots more tools than me :) 2 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 2WD are usually zero preload -- check your repair manual. Do it right the first time. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brohemius Posted April 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Alrighty so tonight i ordered: 1. inner tie rod ×2 2. Outer tie rod ×2 3. Tie rod adjusting sleeves ×2 4. Upper ball joint ×2 5. Lower ball joint ×2 6. Inner bearings ×2 7. Outer bearings ×2 8. Idler arm 9. Distributor cap 10. Distributor rotor 11. Carb repair kit 12. Valve cover gasket I still need to source a pitman arm for 2wd. Thinking on doing the center link but im broke after that order. New priority list: 1. Install everything ordered. 2. Ignition cylinder. 3. Seats. 4. Install windshield. 5. Sound reduction. 6. Drive to santa cruz 7. remove bed rust, use rust converter and paint black for now. (inner bed rust) Again thanks to everyone for the knowledge and advice! 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Bearing preload is less than 6 lbs to rotate the hub for new bearings as per the FSM. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 The bearings I listed are for 2WD trucks. Sorry for any inconvenience. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 These bearings cover the years of 2 WD Datsun/Nissan trucks 1978 - 2004 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 That's quite the interchange. Thanks for the info! 1 Quote Link to comment
petercscherer Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Pitman arm is a pressed fit onto the steering box. When I was working on mine, I figured no way that it could wear and was unable to detect any wobbles or shimmy's to the pitman arm's movement. I replaced everything else, but left the stock pitman arm on the truck and it's handled just fine. I have 1,200 miles since my front-end rebuild with no problems at all. ~Peter 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 You are welcome. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.