My First 720. And First Datsun!

[81SVN20]

Hey Buddy your truck is looking good! I have an 81 kingcab as well original color red but got repainted white from the previous owner... Your build is my motivation and im looking to change out my vacuum lines too if it is not too much to ask can you take a photo of your engine with the air cleaner off im going to use it as my reference as my lines some are missing. Thanks!

[84720FourWheel]

Gl4 in the transmission and transfer case, gl 5 in the diffs

[datzenmike]

Its a manual trans.

 

I really want to take care of the dieseling as it happens 95% of the time when i shut it down. Not sure what to do about it. I guess its running rich and thats the problem?

 

Causes of dieseling...

 

Once warmed up the engine idles only on the idle circuit. The idle circuit can only get fuel if the idle cut solenoid is on or open when the key is on. When key is turned off the solenoid closes and fuel flow stops and engine dies. If you have dieseling all you need is an outside source of fuel such as the choke not shutting off. Take the  top off air filter when the engine is warmed up. The choke plate should be fully open. If not check that the Blue wire to the choke is connected. If connected check that it has power while engine is running. If no power when running, splice it to the Red idle curt solenoid beside it to receive power..

 

 

 

 

 

Mine did that for a bit then I had to tinker with the carb and it finally stopped, used to back fire pretty bad too. The blue wire on mine has been cut, thinking of re attaching it to see if the choke still works, just haven't gotten around to it yet. 

 

 

A problem has appeared in the last two days.

WWhen i leave the truck for a few hours sometimes it wont start or even turn over, just a "click" sound that i havnt found the source of.

But if i try to start it in rapid succession, as in turn the key "click" turn it back and turn it again and repeat like 5 or more times quickly. If i dont do it quickly it doesnt do shit just the "click". It seems the rapid on and off of the key is what helps...

Please help as this one worries me. ive had alot of hell with starters in the past and my mind instantly thinks starter.

 

Well this could be the starter solenoid...but it could also be a weak voltage from the ignition switch to the solenoid. This is usually just old wiring. Pull the starter solenoid wire off (Black/Red stripe) and measure the voltage with the key in the start position. It should be 12 or battery voltage. If 6-8 volts, this is the problem.

[Rhino13]

Is there any specific gear oil i should use in the transmission, transfer case, and both differentials? Or do they all take standard api gl-4 80w90 gear oil?

I think i remember reading something about a specific brass part that is sensative to certain gear oils, but i cant remember what or where. Im wanting to change all fluids.

You've got a 2wd truck, no transfer case and only one diff in the rear. Transmission use GL-4, rear diff use GL-5.

[datzenmike]

Both the transmission and the differential drain bungs have a magnet on them to collect ferrous metal particles.  Have a look at them and then clean them off so you can see what's up the next time you change the fluids. A fine black paste is normal. Chunks are not. I found ball bearings on one trans bung once. Transmission and differential bungs are the same.

 

Transmission and differential oils should be changed every 30K miles or 5? years. The oil doesn't break down but the anti scuff additives do. Easy and cheap protection for them. 

 

Transmission 2 liters.... differential 1.25 liter. Full when you can't add more. Do NOT fill except through the fill hole.

[Brohemius]

Perfect! Thanks for the info everybody, i really appreciate it!

Im going to change all fluids including a coolant flush. Pictures soon!

 

81Svn20, ill grab you a picture of my lines soon. I can include a vacuum diagram also.

[81SVN20]

Perfect! Thanks for the info everybody, i really appreciate it!

Im going to change all fluids including a coolant flush. Pictures soon!

 

81Svn20, ill grab you a picture of my lines soon. I can include a vacuum diagram also.

 

Thanks Buddy I'd appreciate it very much!!

[Brohemius]

So i did a few things to my truck this evening...

 

Started with an oil change.

 

Plug:

Broke loose.

 

The rest by hand.

 

And its flowing!

 

I just left it alone at this point for a few minutes while i took the air cleaner off for vacuum photos and clearance.

 

All drained out.

 

New filter put in.

 

Then i moved onto the coolant flush...

Took this panel off to let fluid drain better.

 

Then all hell broke loose...

 

How the fuck do you drain your coolant without it raining under the truck? Crazy jet streams in tandom directions and shit... What a mess.

 

Then changed the air filter.

 

Then the fuel filter.

 

Could only find gl-5 gear oil today, gonna wait to do the differential until i have the gl-4 oil for the transmission. Also i was told i need to seal the bungs with rtv after changing fluid.

[Brohemius]

And dont worry 81SVN20!! Ive got you some vacuum line photos my friend.

 

My engine.

 

Closer to the left

 

Kinda better shot of around the carb

 

Over on the right.

 

Some diagrams:

 

1-

 

2-

 

Hopefully these help!

[84720FourWheel]

I don't know about RTV, but plumbers tape or some thread sealant on the bungs is what I'd suggest.

[Rhino13]

I didn't say rtv the drain bung, I said to use it when putting the diff cover back on. You don't want it on the bung.

[84720FourWheel]

I think the 2wd have an h190 in the rear that does not have a diff cover. Only drain bungs. The c200 has a cover, but it does not need to be removed to change fluids as it also has a drain bung. 

 

The H190 is similar in design to a Ford 9 inch. The c200 looks like a Chevy 8.8 axle. 

[Rhino13]

Yup you're right, I forgot the 2wd didn't have a bolt on cover. My last vehicle was a Cherokee, a ranger before that, and a 4wd 720 before that so I'm used to seeing a cover under there haha.

[Lockleaf]

When I drain the coolant, I used to take apart the lower radiator house at the union in the middle. I'm not sure if 2wd have that, but I think all the trucks with power steering have the metal pipe union in the middle. I would jam a funnel down there and split the union over it. Still makes a pretty decent mess, but it's less than half of the joke you get using the bung. Isn't it awesome how they put it dead center over the frame rail?

 

Last year I got a bunch of brass fittings and a brass valve and built a drain that replaces the bung and hangs the drain out past that frame rail, so I can just open the valve and drain the dumb thing.

[81SVN20]

And dont worry 81SVN20!! Ive got you some vacuum line photos my friend.

 

My engine.

 

Closer to the left

 

Kinda better shot of around the carb

 

Over on the right.

 

Some diagrams:

 

1-

 

2-

 

Hopefully these help!

 

Thanks alot buddy will tackle this!

[Brohemius]

No problem sir.

 

Edit: fixed the signals. Thanks rhino, turned out to be a finicky hazard switch.

 

Also my front right tire is losing air like a mofo, so if anyone can hook me up with some decent daily driver wheels and tires that would be amazing. It loses all air after 2 days. Really not fun to drive with and constantly having to check.

[84720FourWheel]

Slide the hazard switch back and forth a few times, usually that helps.

[Brohemius]

Anybody know where to get a windshield gasket? Got the new windshield waiting i just need the gasket, if i can get one that accepts the trim that would be amazing.

[Lockleaf]

I had my last windshield installed by safelite auto glass and they had both the black gasket and the chrome trim version available at the time. That was a couple years back now, but worth a try

[81SVN20]

Anybody know where to get a windshield gasket? Got the new windshield waiting i just need the gasket, if i can get one that accepts the trim that would be amazing.

 

Here ya go!

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1986-NISSAN-720-P-U-WINDSHIELD-WEATHERSTRIP-SEAL-1-PC-/321075642514

[Gradyfest]

Super nice of you to post those photos for the other member and his vacuum line dilemma! I've been in a bind before where a nice gesture (photos in this case,) can really help in a situation. When I drain coolant I first find the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, duh right. Then I decide which one of the funnels I own "fits" best underneath it and allows the nozzle, or flow of coolant, to reach down under the chassis free of restriction. On my 4x4 720 I remove a splash guard for a straight shot. After positioning the funnel securely duct tape it in anyway to whatever, so it won't move. Next you slide whatever vessel you have to collect it underneath. Then lastly and maybe most importantly, after removing the drain petcock (just let it fall in the funnel,) I quickly put a finger over the hole with coolant pouring out. Now I'm in control of the flow and let just enough out so my funnel isn't overflowing. Boom! Do it right and you won't spill a drop buddy. The mess in the photos doesn't look fun to clean.

[Gradyfest]

Oh, I'd also use some kind of pipe tape over RTV for your bungs. Cleaning that coolant disaster is easier than cleaning RTV. I personally use Teflon tape. Until I find something better. Go around the threads at least three times.

[Brohemius]

Thanks for the info everybody!! Great community on this forum.

 

I love ptfe thread seal tape! It is amazing for so many applications.

Gradyfest if you havnt already, try the super heavy duty yellow "gas and chemical resistant" plumbers or ptfe thread tape. Its much thicker so requires less wraps and is made to stand up to solvents such as petrolium oils and gases. Although the normal stuff is still teflon so its chemically innert already.

 

As for my tire situation. Im going to get a set of tires either new or in really good shape tomorrow. And as a result i want my steering and front end to be solid. I dont want to eat through new tires on a loose as hell front end.

 

So heres my priority list.

1:order this steering/suspension kit. Seems like a good value for all thats in it.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=6385434&cc=1210217&jnid=428&jpid=0

Order front wheel bearings. and upper ball joints, possibly a idler arm.

 

My steering gear box is very loose so i want to change the fluid and tighten it if possible also. Or if anyones got one in good shape, for cheap... Or free :) that might be even better.

 

2.change the rest of the fluids.

 

3.sound deaden interior/new seats...

 

4.drive it to santa cruz california. About 14 hours...

 

Anything else important i should do to the front end while im doing everything else?

[81SVN20]

Hey buddy here is the front suspension set that I ordered and have installed it already great products...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161219877646?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Rhino13]

Before assuming it's your steering box, do all the front end work, including an idler arm because yours got smacked around so much. Also check the small u joints on the steering column to see if there's any play. Once that's done, you'll be able to see if there's much play in the gear box. It can be deceiving when there's a lot of worn out parts.