The ratty/low/back to life/u.s.s/daily/ka24de 521 thread

[datson4life]

I thought the opposite, less or no vibration, without cutting or the way ive had it before the transmission rubs the tunnel

[uberkevin]

Wait what?? Haha.

 

Mine is like a 1/4 from the sheet metal, is yours not? You don't think that will cause a lot of vibration?

[datson4life]

Wait what?? Haha.

 

Mine is like a 1/4 from the sheet metal, is yours not? You don't think that will cause a lot of vibration?

It shouldn' . As long as its not rubbing

[datson4life]

Can anybody shoot me some tips in removing lower control arm, ive had no luck

 

[uberkevin]

It shouldn' . As long as its not rubbing

Sweet.

 

Fuck it, it doesn't really matter if it does... it's a Datsun with a damn ka in it. Haha

[uberkevin]

But really. No vibration is the plan. Hha

[datson4life]

That's what im aiming for too, watch the exhaust too, that was hideous vibrations for my previous ka 521s, i went to 2 shops, one did a bad job, the other did a worst job, seem challenging for them to route it down without hitting the frame

[flatcat19]

Straight dump to a Super Trap?

[datson4life]

Is there a trick to removing the lower control arm bolt, or they just get stuck on there good?

 

[wayno]

OK, so I take the nut off like you have, remove the lock nut, and then put the nut back on the way you have yours in the photo above, then I stick a punch inside the nut on the end of the bolt and start pounding, the reason I leave the nut on is so it doesn't flare/mushroom the end of the bolt, I pound on it until the bolt moves, I pound till the nut is flush, then I back off the nut a little and pound some more till the nut is flush again, I do it this way till the nut has no more threads, then I use the punch without the nut, by that time it usually moves a lot easier.

I have failed to remove one in my 1963 Datsun 320, I could not get it out, I even made a setup so I could use a sledge on it and I still could not get it out, so I gave up, as all I succeeded in doing was dent my perfect valance.

I put a long piece of re-bar in the end of the nut and held it in position with my floor jack and I would hit the end of the re-bar like in the photo below, all I did was miss once and dent my valance.

So then I found a big piece of flat metal and leaned it against the re-bar, then I could swing really hard without missing and hitting the valance or bumper.

I finally gave up after pounding on it a couple dozen times like in the photo above as hard as I could, I put it back together the way it was, but I was able to put it back together because I had not ruined the end of the bolt pounding on it without the nut on it, it did turn harder, but it turned back on because I never took it off so I didn't care, I don't think I even put the lock nut back on, as it turned so hard that there was no way it would ever come off without extreme effort, it certainly would not rattle or vibrate off.

[datson4life]

Thanks wayno, the nut might not work no more as i hit it too many times and started to flatten, but ill go at it again this weekend, the bolt still survived

[spdcrazy]

awesome thread here. look forward to seeing/hearing it fire up with the itb's as well.

[datson4life]

awesome thread here. look forward to seeing/hearing it fire up with the itb's as well.

Thanks spdcrazy

[datson4life]

Would i ruin the structure/strenght of the chassis by removing the welded transmission crossmember and making its removable/bolt-on?

 

[Charlie69]

I was going to do this on my 620 frame and realized to do it I would have to change out to 620 or 720 torsion bars and the torsion bar cross members as well.  This is why after all the work I did customizing my 520 chassis I swapped a 720 chassis under it.

 

[datson4life]

I plan on running coilovers up front

[uberkevin]

Would i ruin the structure/strenght of the chassis by removing the welded transmission crossmember and making its removable/bolt-on?

I mean how often do you plan on removing it..

[uberkevin]

I do like the way tour thinking tho hahaha

[datson4life]

For several reason, to run a fatter exhaust and be low, and to not have to remove engine each time i do clutch or replace transmission

[wayno]

For several reason, to run a fatter exhaust and be low, and to not have to remove engine each time i do clutch or replace transmission

 

 

I wouldn't remove it, but you could make the holes the torsion bars went thru larger for the exhaust.

I would also remove the carrier bearing cross member and put one in that doesn't hang down if your going really low.

I suppose you could put a flat one in back of the one you have, and then cut that one out and put mounts on using a 720 transmission mount cross member, but when you do that plan on the exhaust going thru the cross member instead of above or below it under the cab itself.

There is a lot involved when you start messing with the cross members, I would just leave it myself, I mean how often do you have to replace the transmission or the clutch, but if your going to do it, now is the time.

Here is my carrier bearing cross member.

It doesn't hang down at all now, and I didn't need to put a spacer under the bearing either.

The E-brake junction on the carrier cross member.

My frame in back of the front wheels is my issue now, and the front mounts for the rear leafs will hit speed bumps also, and I even raised them.

This is a 1986 Nissan 720 frame under my 1966 Datsun 520 cab/box.

My shocks are not stock either, I used 1968 thru 1973 Datsun 510 wagon rear lower mounts.

Here is the truck, it can be lower, but it starts dragging pulling into my driveway and I don't like it so I raised it about an inch, the only way I can get it to look lower now is to do a body drop or drive it into a hole.

Here is when the front was lower.

[Elkie]

How I did mine if it helps.

[datson4life]

Nice! Thanks fellas, i have a different idea, ill post a picture when i start it

[mrbigtanker]

First off once you remove the torsion bars you will have a lot of room under there for just that, Second what are you doing exactly, making a bad ass build or making your life hard for some strange reason. You can easily modify the cross members for tucked exhaust and to go more low. Also if you do coil overs do it right my front end rides like shit.I will redo all of it sooner or later well if i don't stuff a LS2 under the hood anyway right spring ratings and make sure the lower you go the coil is mounted right for the compression and rebound geometry..

 

Merry Christmas

[datson4life]

First off once you remove the torsion bars you will have a lot of room under there for just that, Second what are you doing exactly, making a bad ass build or making your life hard for some strange reason. You can easily modify the cross members for tucked exhaust and to go more low. Also if you do coil overs do it right my front end rides like shit.I will redo all of it sooner or later well if i don't stuff a LS2 under the hood anyway right spring ratings and make sure the lower you go the coil is mounted right for the compression and rebound geometry..

 

Merry Christmas

Blackmarkit's custom spindles should soon see the light of the world, coilovers would be comfortable, i wanna finish this one cause an ls1 drag truck is growing in me lol

 

 

Merry Christmas Tanker

[datson4life]

But in this one im aiming towards track truck