q-tip Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 The front crank seal on my ka in my 510 started leaking pretty bad and I need to change it. The question is should I pull the motor out to change it or drop the cross members and drop the engine just enough to get the crank pulley off? And I want to get this done so I can drive the dime to canby this year Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 IM not a KA expert but can you pull the radiator out and get to it that way? 2 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted May 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 That might work, I just don't remember, the engine has been in the car for almost 9 years Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Pull the radiator. 3 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted May 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 That is going to be my first attempt for sure. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 I'm with the "pull the radiator" crowd. 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted May 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 I over thought it for sure. :lol: 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 No Typical 510 mentality. I had a buddy with 2 510. 1 510 he blow the motor. so he took the motor out of the other 510 and stuck it in. I said why didnt you just put the battery from the blown motor car in the other car and your driving. He said, he never thought of that. 3 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted May 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 Atleast it wasnt that bad. :lol: I got the rad and the fan pulled, the belts off and proceeded to roll the car over the wheel chalk trying to get the crank bolt loose.....looks like km going to need to enlist some help.... 1 Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 i found with bolts like that a hammer works best. put a wrench on there and hammer it rather than a big ass cheater bar. do you have an air compressor? an air impact really helps too 2 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted May 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 No room for an impact, with the radiator and everything out there is only about 6" from the pulley to the core support, bringing home Bertha today Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted May 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Got the pulley off, it has about a .005-.010 groove in it, am I going to have to replace it? Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 if the motor cranks in the proper direction you can also put a breaker bar wedged on the frame and bump the starter for future removals of course as you already have the pulley removed side note pull the coil wire before doing it this way Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Got the pulley off, it has about a .005-.010 groove in it, am I going to have to replace it? They have(repair) speedi-sleeves or redi-sleeves to help repair worn grooves just like yours. You can get them from rockauto or a parts house. Here's a thread related to your occurence = http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=176667 As another option... if you cheat with how far the seal (in accordance to where the actual lip rides ..not sure that will even work for your engine) goes in "exactly" in relation to the groove.. you "may" be able to get away with it sealing up. I've done it on a rear-main seal on my L28 in a pinch (as a surprise I didn't plan for + I needed the car the next day for work) when it needed to get done that night (otherwords I would have ordered a repair sleeve). It's never so much as seeped or leaked to this day. Although I would not do this if I had the choice of time to replace either the part itself (whole crankshaft in my case) or obtain a repair-sleeve the right way for longest life and less chance of butt lice. :) Just make sure the pulley itself is not bent or wobbling (like my truck was) , and it should be "ok". Ah yeah.. I'm not with the pull the radiator crowd ..... I am with the "cut the front half of yo car off to replace a seal or engine" crowd ... :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted May 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 I got the new seal in and the pulley on, tomorrow will tell if then new seal is the fix or if it will have to be a repair or replace with the crank pulley 2 Quote Link to comment
Guest Rick-rat Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Just drive the truck to Canby and don't worry aboot the leek 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted May 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Truck still has its battle scars from its tangle with a lincoln. The car is much better in the highway too. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Be sure to grease the seal lips so it doesn't start up dry. Chevy replacement front seals are different from the factory. When pounded in they seat farther in and ride on the unworn portion of the crank. I found this true of the 71B rear seal. It was slightly thinner and tapped in further onto the tranny spline. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted May 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Seal is greased, and it was slightly different but I think it was just the shape of the seal lips not the location Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted May 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 No more oil leak, damn water pump belt was a real pain in the ass to get on, actually broke one. Problem nownis I think the thermostat isn't working properly, going to try a just taking it out and seeing if it still gets hot. 1 Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Is it reading too hot or too cold? 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted May 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Too hot, its thermostat or heater core, thermostat is easier to get out Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Was just the thermostat, running great now 1 Quote Link to comment
RJRACIN240 Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 if the motor cranks in the proper direction you can also put a breaker bar wedged on the frame and bump the starter for future removals of course as you already have the pulley removed side note pull the coil wire before doing it this way Just saying maybe put the car in gear and then have someone step on the brake! Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Just saying maybe put the car in gear and then have someone step on the brake! Eventually got it by putting the car in 5th and chalking the rears, 1st and 2nd it just rolled over the wheels chalks. :lol: Quote Link to comment
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