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Janksun

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Cast or malleable iron is a fairly soft metal. They would work fine in crankcase casting. They can be drilled out if necessary. The material inserted in just needs to be soft enough to drive the lockers in, but they are actually driven into the threaded area. Might be not so good in stainless. I believe that the locking tangs are stainless. They work real well in our aluminum tooling.

 

I have also used them in wood in which they work well, except in endgrain. I build tools to repair/restore violins from various woods for my use and sometime want to use SAE fasteners instead of wood screws.

 

There is a chart for the keenserts that lists drill and tap size for hole prep for an insert of specific internal thread. If you need info, let me know.

 

Steve

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I just watched the YouTube video. We don't use the special tool to drive the lock tangs down. Just a drift punch and be careful to drive straight down so as not to bend them over. Greasy simple procedure. Save the $$ for the special tool to use on more Datsun stuff.

 

Unlike heli-coils, you don't need special taps; just something that you might have or can borrow.

 

To run the insert in I don't use special inserters which are available. Just use a bolt with the internal thread with a tube sleeve slightly bigger than the bolt but smaller than the inside of the lock tangs to drive against the face of the insert.

 

Does that make sense or did I turn it into a bunch of jibberish??

 

Steve

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So I got my inserts today. And they call for a m16x2 tap, which I have, but the tap hole needs to be 14mm which is a decimal of 0.5512. If I went with a 9/16 drill bit which is a decimal of 0.5625, can I get away with this? Or should I buy a 35/64 which is a decimal point of 0.5469 which is smaller?

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Go with the smaller if you can snag the proper drill. The tap will cut out the excess in hole if there is any. Only talking about a couple of thousandths of an inch. Less than a human hair; Average hair that is. 

 

The drills are generally sized to leave a tiny flat on the inner peak of the thread form and the tap cuts a little radius on the outer valley of the thread ( on an internal thread). Just the opposite on an external thread (flat & radius trade places). It might look like it, but there are no sharps on a thread. Creates a stress riser that could very well result in a crack from vibration, pressure forces, etc.

 

Steve

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Well turns out that the top of the hole was 14mm and it tapered down to a smaller size, I used a 1/2" drill bit to ream the hole a little. Went in with the tap. I had no cutting fluid so I just used a stick of butter for both drilling the hole and tapping it. It worked out great! The hole is straight.threads line up perfectly. The tap was a little hard to turn but I got the job done.

 

IMAG0172_zpsi128ugme.jpg

 

IMAG0173_zpsuugi8a7x.jpg

 

IMAG0174_zpsw5b36gyb.jpg

 

 

For those interested here is a link to the insert I used.

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#97084a250/=q9zojg

 

It came out to $20.01 shipped to my door. I bought a m16x2 tap from orielly auto parts. They didnt have any in stock so they had to order one out of the books. If you can get the correct sized drill bit for the job which is a 14mm bit I would advise you to do so. I couldn't get one in time so I used a 1/2" drill bit. It was a little harder but it worked. You could also use 35/64" and it would be a little easier. Then screw in the insert as far as you need and it should be good to go!

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