metalmonkey47 Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 Holfuckingtorquebatman.jpg by metalmonkey47, on Flickr Lookatthatsunrisebobby.jpg by metalmonkey47, on Flickr Ready?? Go. 1 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 1 Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 so where are the numbers after they fixed there dyno 1 Quote Link to comment
GRpufnstuf Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 900+ ftlb torque? Better turn your boost down a little 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 103 RWHP? shit that's about 120 at the motor!!!! Fuck that's right in the ball park for an LZ23. Nice going!!! You have a 15% larger displacement At what RPMs??? 1 Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 Was that in 3rd gear? Damn awesome to see some dyno results for a LZ. Do you have your SUs on yet or was this with the 38/38? 1 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 103 RWHP? shit that's about 120 at the motor!!!! Fuck that's right in the ball park for an LZ23. Nice going!!! You have a 15% larger displacement At what RPMs??? Yessir! About 104 if you round it up which was pretty satisfying, and quite honestly what I expected. Only a 2150 ;) But I call it a LZ22 since it's close enough. It's still loosing power somewhere and Mike, you might be able to explain something to me here. You can hear it start to break up at the end of the dyno here which is why he ended the pull. I kinda wonder if it's timing related..... checked the timing via the crank mark on my gun and it reads (with no advance hooked up) around 25-30 degrees! I backed it down to around 12 degrees but it would hardly run and lost a shit ton of power. I also had to turn the idle screw in nearly all the way. I have no pinging at all, and the motors strong/consistent. Is it possible for something to be misaligned and cause a false reading?? Was that in 3rd gear? Damn awesome to see some dyno results for a LZ. Do you have your SUs on yet or was this with the 38/38? I think it was...the hell? I dunno...these guys....meh after this experience I can say I'm not satisfied. Which is weird because they're a highly reputable shop. This was still with the 38/38. I'm very unhappy about not having a torque reading. I'd really have loved to get an accurate number, because I know this thing makes a ton of torque. The SU's are still being worked on in my spare time... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 2150 is even better! L20B is about 90-95 RWHP on a good day. Hard to tell he may have been lifting off about the same time. Do you have an a/f meter? Maye slight lean at full out RPMs It's still loosing power somewhere and Mike, you might be able to explain something to me here. You can hear it start to break up at the end of the dyno here which is why he ended the pull. I kinda wonder if it's timing related..... checked the timing via the crank mark on my gun and it reads (with no advance hooked up) around 25-30 degrees! I backed it down to around 12 degrees but it would hardly run and lost a shit ton of power. I also had to turn the idle screw in nearly all the way. I have no pinging at all, and the motors strong/consistent. Is it possible for something to be misaligned and cause a false reading?? Vacuum advance does not enter into this if you are at full throttle. Vacuum advance is used at part throttle. Mechanical advance, about 20 degrees, is built into the dizzy and starts at about 1,000 and increases with RPMs. It is usually full in by 2,500/3,000. You say 25-30 degrees but don't mention the RPM read at. Mechanical advance cannot be easily adjusted. The rate that the advance increases can be 'tailored' by taking apart and changing the counter weights and springs inside. Static advance (12 degrees for an L series) is easily adjustable, and usually set at idle with a timing gun and like the name static implies... it's fixed and does not change. At 1,000 RPMs you have the static timing of 12 degrees plus any mechanical (if any) added together. By 3K it's 12 plus 20 = 32 total advance. L engines run well at about 32-34 degrees total advance. Naturally, higher compressions will burn faster, so the static timing can be reduced. Was that a third gear pull????? sounded like it. Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 very nice! i have been wanting to build a lz22 for my 510 but z22 blocks are hard to find. someday i will come across one for a good deal and build one. Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 The motor is a 2138cc Z20/L20B block .Z22 crank, Z20E 6" rods and lightweight 86mm Mahle Forged pistons with their low drag rings. Needs a good long tube header and proper carbs... or the turbo setup I was working on for that motor before selling it to metalmonkey. From what I can figure on the dyno chart is they only ran it to ~6500 in 3rd. It started to die off at 5700ish RPMs. A lil better than the 50hp on the old L20B. Its a stout little motor. Begging for 8.5:1 compression and 15psi boost 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 Awsome, sounds bad ass man :D Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 From what I can figure on the dyno chart is they only ran it to ~6500 in 3rd. It started to die off at 5700ish RPMs. . Third gear is cheating. Still it sure sounds good and there is more power yet to be discovered here I think. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 There's always HP to be found. Mine's still lacking, and I goof with it a lot just looking. I need to check valve lash. I have the Racer Brown specs for the cam somewhere, since the lash on the cam is supposed to be set at the cam (between lash pad/rocker tip) vs. the factory method. Couple other little things to look at. I've probably lost a few HP rolling the timing back to make the motor more stable (M_o_T recommendation, and makes it more streetable) but I've pulled the clutch fan off in favor of just my electric and fan t-stat to free up a little power (minimal) and allow me to warm the engine up faster in our colder temps. I've got an issue that's reared it's big ugly head in the last couple weeks. Only happened twice, but under the same conditions. Pulled out of work the first time, and revved it out goofing off for our district manager that was asking about it. Motor made it to 5500 fine but once it got there it choked and shut off with no sign or heads up. Pulled off in the parking lot and I had fuel in the bowl, checked all my IGN wiring which was fine. Got back in, turned the key and it fired right up. Blam no hesitation, nothing. It ran like a top. Drove it home with no issue. Since then revved the snot out of it, lots of clutch dumps, goofy donuts on the side of the road, etc with no issue until tonight. Just like the first time, pulled out, hit second gear, hit 5500 and it was off. Pulled off, didn't even get out this time. Turned the key off then on again, turned the starter and after a few short revolutions it roared to life and drove off without a hitch. I figure it's got to be ignition related. Checked for any loose connections that might be rattling around at high RPM's but I hadn't found anything. At this point, I'm a little stumped. I'm gonna take my ohm meter to the IGN parts tomorrow and check coil primary/secondary resistance, I'm sure it's not related to the ICM. For now I'll just keep driving it. I'm working on the SU's slowly day by day. I will start working on the heat shield some day soon when I find some time to start making measurements. I also need to get some fittings for the brake booster on the manifold. Hoping for a 20+HP gain with the Z car SU's once properly setup. The motors pretty stout and with enough air should throw down some epic numbers. it's very strong with a 38/38 but it's not nearly enough. Intake ports are about 41mm fed by two small 38mm barrel's. Z car SU's are around 46-48mm iirc so it should feed the motor a lot more. The engine felt substantially better with the 38/38 over the 32/36. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 IM thinking sidedraft Mikuni 40s(street) or 44s!!!!!!!!!!!next might loose soem torq but In top end goes better. think you need a muffler on there to get rid of soem raspyness maybe the 38/38 is running out of air at 5800? that 90deg bend dont help from carb to manifold. 103hp with a down draft I think is really good!!!!!!!!!!!!!for a L motor bet its more than my L16 with PHH sidedrafts Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.