mah clutch issue.

[Stupid_fast]

Just replaced the last piece of my clutch... the hard line.

 

Everything is new, and some parts have been swapped or replaced with less than 10k miles on them.

Roadster pressure plate & 510 clutch disk

new t/o bearing and NEW OEM nissan CORRECT sleeve

new slave and master 2nd set in 10k miles

new soft line within 8k miles

clutch fork is from a 510, greased in all proper spots when i installed it. 

 

 

When my clutch warms up, it gets 'sticky' on slow disengagements, like trying to pull away from a stop, the pedal will stick slightly then pop 2-5mm back making my clutch almost unusable ... 

I've bled probably 10 liters through that damn system.  The fluid is good.

 

Play is ~1/8" at the pedal.  A good 2-3mm of wiggle at the slave all within spec.

 

Anyone got any ideas?  When I started driving it felt great, smooth and felt like a normal clutch ... comes home after its all hot (it was backroad driving, not much stopping.) and same sticky thing ive been trying to deal with forever. ..

[bananahamuck]

Bad pressure plate?? i read it was new but did it do this before you put new one in?

[datzenmike]

 

Anyone got any ideas?  When I started driving it felt great, smooth and felt like a normal clutch ... comes home after its all hot (it was backroad driving, not much stopping.) and same sticky thing ive been trying to deal with forever. ..

.

forever? so this was an ongoing problem before all thwe new parts? Pressure plare then most likely. Bent diaphragm finger? Spring in the clutch disc broken?  

[Stupid_fast]

second pressure plate since I fragged my first one.  Old one had the same issue.

 

 

Had the wrong t/o sleeve on the old one, clutch always engaged and bent the fingers on the plate.  New clutch hasn't degraded or frozen the t/o bearing yet and this problem started immediately after I put it in properly so ...

 

If I bleed the fluid, it goes away for a few mlies, then comes back when everything is hot.

 

My fluid used to turn black after some time driving, I thought this was the cause and its why I replaced my hardline, but last night after replacing the hard line and driving it was perfectly clear. 

 

I'm going to try bleeding it again, but I don't know if it'll do any good. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

do a couple burn outs maybe it just needs to get worn in.

 

sure flywheel was resurfaced?????????

[Stupid_fast]

New flywheel has about 11k miles. 

 

Clutch pad has about 11k miles, pressure plate has about 4k miles.

 

Do some burnouts ??? I've launched it a few times after the break-in period ... Done some clutch kicks ... Feels like a hydraulic problem rather than mechanical, but I could be wrong. 

 

 

Why not ... I'll wear it a bit and see what happens. 

[510T]

Yeah a few good burnouts should help.  At least you will have a big smile on your face :D

[LenRobertson]

Roadster pressure plate & 510 clutch disk

new t/o bearing and NEW OEM nissan CORRECT sleeve

 

 

When you say correct sleeve, what part number did you get, and does it measure the same as the N1601 here?

http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6981&title=200mm-clutch-t-2fo-bearing-sleeve-specs&cat=3129

Maybe you have already posted the info. There have been a few clutch problem posts recently and I'm losing track of them. I think the N1601 is the correct sleeve for the roadster PP, but I'm not absolutely sure. If anyone knows it is the right one, please post.

 

Len.

[datzenmike]

30501-N1601 is correct Len.

[LenRobertson]

30501-N1601 is correct Len.

However, according to this post http://community.ratsun.net/topic/57407-510-clutch-sleeve/

 Nissan may have changed the part number to 30501-N1604. Or the N1604 is a replacement sleeve for the N1601? Does that seem likely? I can check at Nissan, but it may be awhile before I get there when Parts is open.

 

Len

[Stupid_fast]

I checked the reciept, what I ordered was 30501-N1601  listed as REPLACED BY 30501-N1604.

 

EIther way it measured as the correct length.

[datzenmike]

A small number change can be the maker or supplier, maybe a different technique to make them, different alloy, some small improvement but totally interchangeable.

[Stupid_fast]

Also I'd like to point out.

 

 

It is installed the exact same way I installed the clutch on my 280zx.

 

 

The clutch on my 280zx works flawlessly.

[LenRobertson]

Do you have the same freeplay at the pedal after everything warms up and starts acting weird? Did you bench bleed the master cylinder (this may not even be needed for a clutch master. Don't know)? Do you have a good strong return spring on the pedal arm? Any chance anything can be binding in the pedal arm travel? I suspect these are all useless questions, but just trying to think of something.

 

Len

[Stupid_fast]

@LenRobertson,

 

There is the same amount of play cold and warm.

 

I bench bled it before installation with the new master.

 

I have a sufficient return spring on the slave.  No change in behavior cold/hot that I can tell.  Slave always returns to the same position.

 

Binding the pedal arm ? I've had everything somewhat apart, I screwed around with the pedal for about an hour once trying to grease and check for binding ... No change, didn't find anything wrong with the mechanism.

 

 

 

So I drove the car tonight again, started out fine because its freshly bled(again!!!) drove for a few miles of windy roads so no stop/go ... got home and clutch is same sticky behavior as I maneuvered into my garage. 

 

 

Could it be binding inside the bell housing somehow ???  But this gearbox was in the 280zx before and the clutch was working perfectly ... Everything was packed with grease on installation correctly ... 

 

 

Next step is taking it to a shop ... after that take it to a Datsun guy and see if he can figure it out. 

 

 

 

 

Edit-  Alex Datsun said something interesting ... I am running valvoline DOT 3&4 fluid and the only other fluid I tried was a DOT 3&4 fluid ...

 

I'm going to try bleeding it out with DOT3 rated fluid ... see what happens. 

[Stupid_fast]

I'm pulling the gearbox in a few days.

 

What should I do to the clutch mechanism while its out ??? 

 

 

 

Changed to generic DOT3 ... fluid still turning dark after a bit of driving.  Same issue.  Clutch works fine when I first bleed it and drive, come back and its sticky and hard to use as ever. 

[datzenmike]

It shouldn't be turning dark. This is usually rubber from the seals wearing away naturally.

 

 

When you bleed it do you get air out???

[Stupid_fast]

Theres no more air in the system because I've bled it so many times.  yes, when I replaced the components it was full of air of course.  I bench bled the master and  filled the slave with fluid before installation

 

all of the air was bled out the first time I bled it. 

 

took about a liter of fluid through the system. 

[datzenmike]

You said it works after you bleed it and then it starts acting up after driving. I thought maybe air is getting in.

 

Still odd that the fluid goes darker.

[Stupid_fast]

Air doesn't come out if I go bleed it again right now. 

 

 

Heat ?  Clutch arm linkage binding when transmission is warm ?! idk ... I put grease on everything there ... 

[Rays74]

It's been a few days since this thread was active but it COULD be the TB collar hanging up on the nose of the trans mid way through it's travel? Long shot.

--Ray

[Stupid_fast]

Swapped the gearbox ... I was only able to drive for a few minutes because this "low milage" gearbox I bought has bearing growl louder than a banshee wail. 

 

 

But I think I found the reason... and I "THINK" its gone but I didn't post because I won't be able to tell until I get my gearbox back from the rebuilder.

 

 

On the 83 box there was a washer under the clutch pivot knob thing ... I think that may have been causing some of it ... I don't understand how though. 

 

 

I'll report back when I have my gearbox put back in.

[Stupid_fast]

Okay.

 

 

the issue went away for a good 100 miles.

 

 

I was at the track last weekend and the clutch wasn't fully disengaging (grinding into 2nd, reverse from a stop).

 

I adjusted the slave a little bit just so the clutch would disengage when on the floor.

 

When I got home, I threw the front on jack stand and played with it so I have 2-3mm play at the clutch fork when the clutch is released.

 

Few miles later, this clutch problem sticky clutch started coming back.

 

 

 

Maybe something at the slave is adjusted wrong and causing a bind ??? I don't know what to do.

[edekalil]

I know you replaced the flexible line, so you are loosing the traveling the peddle after driving a while. I guess what I mean is when pressing on the clutch it does not travel far enough to completely disengage after using it for some time. Could the flexible line be collapsing and stoping the fluid from traveling to the slave after using it a while?

[Stupid_fast]

Move along.

 

 

Nothing to see here.

 

 

 

Just another kid adjusting his slave rod incorrectly. 

 

 

 

:mellow: