q-tip Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 I was thinking the scout 2 44 needed up at 62" with a disc kit, I just wasn't sure......information stored...... Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 ok thanks...would i need to buy a disk brake kit for the wagoneer rear axle? Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 If you want it the same width as your front yes. Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 ok...if i left it drums then would i just have to run spacers right? Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 i just found a 12 bolt really close to me and i am wondering if i should just go ahead and pull the trigger on it. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 You dont HAVE to have the same track width front and rear. Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Look, if you run a 12 bolt or a Dana 60 you are going to need the 38" tires just to maintain the ground clearance at the third member that you will have with a 33" tire and a 44... You will also need 8 lug 16" wheels. 8 lug because that's what a 12 bolt is, and 16" wheels to clear the brakes. Get it? Just plug the 58" rear in and worry about the track width when you can afford the disk brake kit. Or run spacers in the rear. Or run a heavier offset wheel in the rear...... Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 forgive my ignorance, this is the first time i have built anything and i do not yet posses the vast stores of knowledge and experience that you all do. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Just some tough love buddy, we will teach you. Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Sorry to sound so short tempered . Roofing the house will do that to you. 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Where in Washington are you, I might just have a scout 2 Dana 44 I would be willing to give up Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 im up near Stevenson Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Hhmmmm bit far.... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 You dont HAVE to have the same track width front and rear. It is helpful though. The best way to pick lengths for axles is to have a rear that is slightly narrower than the front. This gives a tighter turning radius and the steering components don't have to work as hard to bring the rear through it's scrub. Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 It is helpful though. The best way to pick lengths for axles is to have a rear that is slightly narrower than the front. This gives a tighter turning radius and the steering components don't have to work as hard to bring the rear through it's scrub. ok that makes sense Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Hhmmmm bit far.... thats ok i will fine something closer...thanks for the offer Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted June 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 so my front springs are really stiff and i have about 3 inches of clearance between the front diff and the oil pan...i think i will pull some packs out of the springs and do a spring over to gain clearance but still keep it as low as possible. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 It is helpful though. The best way to pick lengths for axles is to have a rear that is slightly narrower than the front. This gives a tighter turning radius and the steering components don't have to work as hard to bring the rear through it's scrub. I knew there was an advantage having a more narrow rear but I for the life of me could not remember what it was :lol: Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 so my front springs are really stiff and i have about 3 inches of clearance between the front diff and the oil pan...i think i will pull some packs out of the springs and do a spring over to gain clearance but still keep it as low as possible. You might also try different springs all together. Do you current springs have arch? You might look for some flatter springs if the are and you want to spring over. You can also run longer springs as they tend to flex more. Longer springs would move your axle forward so that is something else to consider. I knew there was an advantage having a more narrow rear but I for the life of me could not remember what it was :lol: turning radius is often overlooked, but around here the trees demand that it be considered :) 1 Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 i just got back from FB camp so no progress yet, i will make a pick and pull run soon once i figure out what i need as far as steering goes. Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 ok here are the questions i have: what steering column should i use, will the stock tank work, and how do i take the passenger side knuckle off? Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 The passenger side knuckle comes off the same as the drivers side but left is right and right is left Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Dana 44 knuckles come off the same way was tie rods. Loosen both the ball joint nuts and hit the housing with a BFH where the ear wraps around the ball joint shaft. Lower first then upper, the knuckle should fall off. I used a steering column from a 1980 720, the splined shaft is the same as the spline shaft that comes out of the yota box, steering U-joint from a Toyota to connect them. get rid of the rag joint as the 720 shaft is collapsible. 1 Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Dana 44 knuckles come off the same way was tie rods. Loosen both the ball joint nuts and hit the housing with a BFH where the ear wraps around the ball joint shaft. Lower first then upper, the knuckle should fall off. I used a steering column from a 1980 720, the splined shaft is the same as the spline shaft that comes out of the yota box, steering U-joint from a Toyota to connect them. get rid of the rag joint as the 720 shaft is collapsible. ok thanks that helps a bunch Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 And the knuckle comes down off of the housing do don't have your feet under it Quote Link to comment
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