ratsun73 Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 finally got some work done, floor is cut now i need to order headers and a body lift Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 i think i will have to do a spring over due to my clearance issue :sneaky: Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 i also might FINALLY get a welder at my place :w00t: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :frantics: :wub: Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 i also might FINALLY get a welder at my place :w00t: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :frantics: :wub: ...lucky... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 3" body lift might be a bit much. Congrats on the welder :) Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted July 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 yes i will be going with a 2 or 1 1/4 inch if i can swing it. heres the welder i got this, the bottle, the regulator, a extra hood, gloves, a welding cabinet full of supplies and a miller 220 stick welder for $500, but my dad will also be using it and he is paying half so i only have $250 into all of this so far. 1 Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 so I tried to bolt the flex plate to the torque converter today and I noticed about a 1/8 inch gap between them and I didn't want to pull the torque converter out of the pump so I figured I should ask, is this going to mess anything up or will it be fine? Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 also I pulled the front axle to take it to a shop so I can have the rotors turned, the knuckle milled and taped, the bearings repacked, and the ball joints replaced. I would have liked to learn how to do this myself but I am out of patience, i don't have the tools, and time to spend screwing with stuff. Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Spoa / 1" shackle lift and a 1" body lift will gain you 7" .- 8" of extra lift. Try to limit the body lift to as little as possible. If you need dimensions on the set up, let me know. 1 Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Spoa / 1" shackle lift and a 1" body lift will gain you 7" .- 8" of extra lift. Try to limit the body lift to as little as possible. If you need dimensions on the set up, let me know. ok thanks, what rear leaf springs are you running? also any ideas on the torque converter to flex plate clearance? Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 I'm running modified Datsun rears. Datsun main lief and a blend of Datsun and Wag. springs tuned to the weight and needs of my rig. I haven't had the rat in my shop for a few months ( paying jobs come first ) And the kid has shown no interest in finishing it. :mad: Haven't herd from the kid in 3 mos. A VERRRRRRRRRRRRY BAD SUBJECT WITH ME RIGHT NOW.....1.5 years of my time , and it's become yard art in my shop lot. But I can measure my rear stack for you if needed and give exact specs if you want. Just remember What works on mine , won't be right on yours. My design is different. Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 this project had to take a short brake from this to earn money i now have enough to get pretty close to done, the axle is getting full service and i will order a 10 degree correction passenger side steering arm and the stud kit from parts mike on monday. i am in the midst of negotiations to trade the rear for a centered one and next weekend im gonna go to the the and pull to get the steering column. 1 Quote Link to comment
ratsun73 Posted August 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 i am SOOOO close to pulling the trigger on the 4 link, nothing fancy just chrome molly joints from jegs, chrome molly tubing coil springs and cheap shocks. let me know what you think if i do it i will be buying all the parts next weekend. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 4 link is always a good way to go if you can do it right, and the way the rest of this build has gone I would say you would have no problem with it. It will be more time and money but a better system. Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Well that's a horse of a different color. ( JMHO ) Building a workable and drivable 4 link takes major fab and math skills. Lots of frame and running gear mods. It should never be done on the cheap. And rarely do they end up being a good DD. ( One of your prerequisites. ) For your first build ( AGAIN JMHO ) you should stick to what you are doing now. You are doing a great job. Just stick with it . 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 I agree with Boxcar, keep it simple for now. I would also advise against using a Jegs kit, most of them seem geared to street cars. You might want to look into systems designed for off road. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/4LINK-KITS.html I will probably go with these guys when I am ready to link mine, but for now I am keeping it simple ;) Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Not to change the subject, But FAWK it's hot and muggy at the beach today....... And lucky me, I'm painting the 110 year old 3 story house. Just thought I'd throw that in for ya ratsun73. Just when ya think you'r screwed , you find out someone else is screwed harder. Have a great day........... Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 I wonder if you could cheat the system and find a rig that that make a 4 link kit for that shares the same wheel base. Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 One could try. But there are other considerations. A Yota kit (on paper) seems like a good candidate. But frame widths are different as are steering designs and geometry, etc. The geometry can't be just close, it has to be exactly right or it won't work. A kit might save some time ( bracket and hanger fab) but as the bracket's would have been designed for a different rig and frame , maybe not. I think if I were to do a DATSUN 4 link. I'd be starting from scratch. Interesting topic though. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 That all depends on the purpose of the rig, mostly street driven it might be a problem but in a dedicated wheeling rig it would just have to flex and not bind Quote Link to comment
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