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L16 swap questions


jalen

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So just finishing up my first swap. I swapped in a l16 in a 510. I did not take enough detailed pictures so I'm stuck.

 

My first question is where do I connect the valve hanging off of the intake manifold?

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My second question is where does the valve by the crank breather get connected to?

 

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So just finishing up my first swap. I swapped in a l16 in a 510. I did not take enough detailed pictures so I'm stuck.

 

My first question is where do I connect the valve hanging off of the intake manifold?

null_zps9cfe0705.jpg

It just a vacuum source, if not used seal it up. Normally it might be used for an automatic or for the temperature controlled air cleaner.

 

 

My second question is where does the valve by the crank breather get connected to?

 

null_zpsfd37042d.jpg

That goes over to the inner fender and connects to the flow guide valve. The flow guide valve allows the PCV to draw fumes from the gas tank and burn them.

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So just finishing up my first swap. I swapped in a l16 in a 510. I did not take enough detailed pictures so I'm stuck.

 

My first question is where do I connect the valve hanging off of the intake manifold?

null_zps9cfe0705.jpg

 

isn't that the water passage?

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So just finishing up my first swap. I swapped in a l16 in a 510. I did not take enough detailed pictures so I'm stuck.

 

My first question is where do I connect the valve hanging off of the intake manifold?

null_zps9cfe0705.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

From what I see, the hose you have going to the themostat housing should be going to the barb on the intake mani, and the one on the thermostat housing should get plugged, or have your coolant temp sensor in it.

 

And as hainz said, move your fuel line

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From what I see, the hose you have going to the themostat housing should be going to the barb on the intake mani, and the one on the thermostat housing should get plugged, or have your coolant temp sensor in it.

 

 

 

There were two systems used on the L20B. One used engine coolant to stabilize intake temperatures by running coolant up both runners to the base of the carb and then out and piped back to the lower rad inlet to the water pump. The other did not have coolant lines in the intake but used exhaust heat to warm it.

 

Additionally, all had a coolant line running out from the thermostat housing that was piped down to the lower rad hose inlet to the water pump. On intakes with the coolant lines the out let from it and the thermostat were joined by a 'Y' pipe near the dizzy. The purpose of the coolant line from the thermostat housing was because the thermostat is not IN the motor at all, but sits outside the head. When the thermostat is cold and closed there is no water circulation past it so the motor tends to get very hot elsewhere while the stagnant cooler water stays around the thermostat. By having a small pipe from the thermostat to the lower inlet, the thermostat can sample the coolant as the motor warms and react to it.

 

 

Early '75 through '77 L20Bs used the hot exhaust to warm the intake. The '78-'80 motors and I think all earlier L16/18 motors, use coolant in the intake runners. This is the more desirable of the two as it also prevents the intake from being too hot from radiant heat from the very close exhaust manifold. A motor will give best performance and lower emissions if it can be run in a narrower controlled temperature range. Easier to tune too.

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We actually dyno tested the water cooling in the manifold before. We also tested the bypass pipe on the front. Turns out, with the cooler-than-exhaust temp of the water running through the intake manifold, the L16 we tested made almost 5 HP more. This was on an engine dyno at Rebello's.

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And if you want further protection from radiant heat, you can build a heat shield that bolts inbetween the carb and manifold to protect the float bowl from radiant heat. Those weren't legal for the SCCA class we raced in so we never pursued it. But I have seen them.

 

Googled pics. https://www.google.com/search?q=Weber+DGV+heat+shield&hl=en&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.48572450,d.cGE&biw=1024&bih=636&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=fi&ei=TsrMUYrNIYTtiwKP0YG4Cw

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We actually dyno tested the water cooling in the manifold before. We also tested the bypass pipe on the front. Turns out, with the cooler-than-exhaust temp of the water running through the intake manifold, the L16 we tested made almost 5 HP more. This was on an engine dyno at Rebello's.

Interesting.Where did you see the 5 HP increase.And i take it this was vs. a dry intake-correct?
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Alright so I finished wiring everything in to my dime. Turned the key no power at all. I have a brand new battery as of 10 minutes ago.

Anybody see anything wrong?

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Take the Black/Yellow stripe wire off (not that Yellow/Black strip) and short the small terminal to the starter lug with the positive battery cable on it. Make sure you're in neutral and brake on... it might start. It should turn over. If key on it should start.

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I had my starter wired wrong. Now it will click but not turnover I'm thinking the starter is bad. We tried to compression start it but didn't have enough room so the wheels locked up when I let I the clutch

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