Creepy Cruiser Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 All of the 95+ KAs I done, I've used this chart. Here is a pic of one installed in the orange car I just finished (as per request). A most excellent product BTW. Here's a couple pics of the finished motor. It's a 96 OBDII motor, and I retained all of the smog equipment (except EGR), and tucked everything away to clean it up nicely. 4 Quote Link to comment
ratsunissan Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 very nicely done thank you Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Ok so here is a new one to me. I've got the can/am box and have had the engine run with it before (not for very long, but engine issue not wiring). I recently unplugged my fuel pump to do some work. Today when I plugged her back in she came on a few times. However now I'm having an issue. With the fuel pump + wiring attached to the can/am box, my ecu does NOT turn on, the red fuel pump light on the can/am does NOT turn on, my run and ECCS relay lights are ON. When I detach the fuel pump + wire from the can/am box, my ecu does NOT turn on, but the all the relay lights come on, and the fuel pump relay light STAYS lit. ***edit, did some more testing. the can/am box has the lights to let you know the fuse is blown. If I pull the ECCS or the fuel pump fuse, their corresponding lights DON'T come on. When I pull the RUN fuse, the corresponding light does come on. When I pull out the ECCS/Fuel pump relays, the relay lights stay lit. When I pull the RUN relay, the lights shut off (even if the other two relays are plugged in.) Did I fry my can/am box? **edit #2 Ok weird, now can/am box seems fine. I let the battery sit and charge over dinner and now the can/am seems to be fine. But the lights on the ECU turn on at the ON position, but turn off when I crank to START. Is that normal? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Those are some interesting symptoms. Yes the green LED can be lit even if that fuse is bad. We decided to not add extra circuits to fix a not really problem. We figured if a car didn't start a looking at the can/am box would be the first thing someone would do and they would notice the fuse LED on even if the green LED was on. Feww that barely makes sense to even me :) My first guess on your car would be bad grounds. Are you sure all of them are good? Double check ALL your wiring. I can't remember if the lights on the ECU stay on during cranking but the CAN/AM ones should even during cranking. Have you had the car running with this setup? Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Makes perfect sense. Yeah it was really weird, I have had the car running (for a brief minute then shut her off) with the can/am box. I went down after dinner and things looked better, I'm wondering if maybe my battery was almost dead and needed to charge. I'll play with her tomorrow and see what is going on. At least from what I can tell I didn't screw up the can/am box lol. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I'd be more worried about the ECU, the can/am box is very rugged and pretty fail safe. Quote Link to comment
Bkhuft Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I am having the same problem with my fuel pump not turning on all of the time as well. The light comes on like the pump should be on but the relay doesn't close. If you ground the relay you can hear it close. Then all of a sudden it starts to work fine wich tells me its a ground issue but I can't figure out where or why. Quote Link to comment
Bkhuft Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Any ideas why my car would back fire and shoot flames out of the tail pipe. Also running very rich. Quote Link to comment
Bkhuft Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Sorry I know you are going to ask this. 71 510 S14 ka wired as s13 s13 throttle body, distributer and maf. Quote Link to comment
FiveSeventyZee Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 the flames are because youre running rich, the backfiring as well. Your car could probably do with a tune up, timing (cam and spark ideally) and air/fuel mix (find out why youre running rich and fix it, leaky injectors, bad ecu, bad o2 sensor could even do it) can't help you with the can/am stuff, but the setup i have is essentially a can/am box just not in a box, and there isn't a whole lot in it to go wrong. like icehouse said, it could be an ecu problem, try another ecu from a running car if possible Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 Wiring wise, what does every body have wired up on the engine room harness no. 2, the one for the transmission, starter and alternator. Things were working before, but a lot of the plugs I wasn't using so I removed them. I'm wondering if I removed something I needed. Right now the only things I have hooked up down there is: Power wire from Battery, connected to starter + terminal, wire from starter + terminal to power terminal, wire from starter + terminal to can/am box, black/yellow wire to starter solenoid, ground wire from alternator to body, reverse lights. I don't have anything else plugged in or connected. Things were working before (engine started and ran for a few minutes), but now my issue is the when the key is in the ON position, all can/am lights on, ecu lights on, fuel pump pushing. Key in the START position, all can/am lights on, engine cranks, ecu lights shut off. HOWEVER if I REMOVE the black/yellow wiring going to the starter solenoid and turn the key to START, the ECU lights stay on. Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted October 13, 2012 Report Share Posted October 13, 2012 I've been searching around with my volt meter. With a volt meter hooked to the Red wire of the injectors and then to a ground, I get 12 volts coming to all four injectors when the key is in the OFF, ON, ACC, and Start positions. With the volt meter across the injectors wires (red, and the corresponding color/black wire of the injector), in the OFF, ON, ACC positions I get 0, in the START (While cranking) I get 9.4 max. Decided to test at the ecu, put the volt meter on the back of the pins of the wires coming from the injector going into the ECU, and then to a ground point, OFF/ON/START I was getting 13 volts, in the START position I got a max of 10.1. But I did notice something weird. The can/am box shuts off the fuel pump if it doesn't get a running/starting signal from the ECU after a few seconds (I like this feature), but I noticed when trying to get to the back of the pins on the connector, that I would push the bundle of wires out of the way and the fuel pump relay would kick back on, turning on the fuel pump. Then it would stop like it suppose to, but if I pushed the wires again, it would do it all over again. Loose wire in the bundle? Maybe a bad ground? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 What are you using for the crossover tube? Is that a factory piece? Clean swap, looks fantastic :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Thanks dude. It started life as a cheap ebay S14 intake tube setup. (you need to make sure to get the ones with the single 90 degree bend, not the two 45s). Then I just cut it down to fit and put new ports in it. Then I powder coated it texture black. I also used the flex rubber coupler that I cut from the stock oem S14 tube. Here it is before all the powder coating. 1 Quote Link to comment
91b22 Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Do you guys still sell these boxes? I would be interested in one. Looking to do a KA in my 85 720. So I'm gathering all the info I can. Quote Link to comment
71kat510 Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 ^^^ same here if still for sale pm me so i can pick one up Quote Link to comment
hammer_down Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Woohoo! I just got my two CAn-Am boxes! Look great. Can't wait to get started wiring up the engines to the chassis. One of them is being used to power a 1997 Ford Explorer v8 in a 1967 Bronco chassis. Thanks Jeff! Good work! Quote Link to comment
StrtchdKHL620 Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 ^^^ same here if still for sale pm me so i can pick one up Same also, I am desperate to get my truck running. Please send me a pm when you get the time. Quote Link to comment
86rolla Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 Same also, I am desperate to get my truck running. Please send me a pm when you get the time. hey interested in one of these boxs!!! txt or pm with prices and details!!!! asap! thanks=) Quote Link to comment
Josh V. Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 Did anyone ever get info on a VH45DE wiring? 1 Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted November 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 No I haven't looked into the VH yet Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 Anybody got a spare S13 KA24DE ECU sitting around I can purchase on the cheap. Starting to wonder if mine is blown and why my injectors won't fire. Quote Link to comment
Hermistonkilla Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 so if im understanding correctly all i need to do is just cut the wires off these plugs and plug them into their designated spots on the can am box? Reading through this thread looking for useful info... Anyone else notice his pink toenail?? Lol 1 Quote Link to comment
Great Dane Posted November 7, 2012 Report Share Posted November 7, 2012 I cant seem to find a Diagram for a Frontier harness? Is there a reason i should stay away from that one and if so what might i use in place. Im using a 98 Frontier motor in a 85 720 Thanks Quote Link to comment
E40_Guy Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Hey guys, im new to the bored. Just wanted to say great thread. Im a wiring idiot and need some help though. Iv got a s13 ka24de, 5 speed in a bmw. My whole car is super simple it'll run on toggle switches and push to start switch. no key necessary. This is the only forum iv found that actually talks about the wiring to get a nissan motor started. Iv got constant power to pins 46, 47, and 38. Pins 48, and 39 are grounded directly to the chassis. Like i said im a wiring idiot. Iv got power on my ecu, (led light is on). I cant get spark to my coil? iv pulled the coil wire off the dizzy and tried arching it to a raw spot on the chassis and can't get anything. Like i said my setup is supper simple, i just dont know what wires need to go where.... and whats constant hot and what isnt. Can someone please help me. eventually it'll be full megasquirt setup, and turbo'ed. But i just wanna make sure this motor runs first. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment
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