Icehouse Posted December 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 Where is your keyed power hooked to the car? I would unhook it where it hooks to the 510 harness and see if it shuts off when you do that. If it does something in the original harness is keeping it on. Great looking wiring!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
grannyknot Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 5 hours ago, Icehouse said: Where is your keyed power hooked to the car? I would unhook it where it hooks to the 510 harness and see if it shuts off when you do that. If it does something in the original harness is keeping it on. Great looking wiring!!! Thanks for replying Jeff, the Key Pwr is the 12ga blue/red stripe which is taking power from the black/white wire that use to go to the old coil. I just disconnected it and the ECCS and Fuel pump continue to run so I guess I should check the #46 & #109 ECU Bup next? I just edited the 1st post, all 3 circuits come on with the ignition key, turn the key off and only the RUN circuit turns off, ECCS and Fuel pump remain on until the battery is disconnected. 1 Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted December 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 3 hours ago, grannyknot said: Thanks for replying Jeff, the Key Pwr is the 12ga blue/red stripe which is taking power from the black/white wire that use to go to the old coil. I just disconnected it and the ECCS and Fuel pump continue to run so I guess I should check the #46 & #109 ECU Bup next? I just edited the 1st post, all 3 circuits come on with the ignition key, turn the key off and only the RUN circuit turns off, ECCS and Fuel pump remain on until the battery is disconnected. Hmm that is an odd one. Something is back feeding but everything looks correct. My only guess is there is 1 black with white stripe wire that comes out of the ecu that does not need to be hooked up to the others. I think it's for powering a component we don't use. That wire could be back feeding the system and not allowing the ecu to shut down. keep us posted 1 Quote Link to comment
grannyknot Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 You were right, #47 black/white. All the lights and the fuel pump turn off with the key, Thanks. I was wondering if was possible to hook up the OBD 1 wires so I could read the codes? 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 22, 2020 Report Share Posted December 22, 2020 Super easy to read the codes from the ecu 1 Quote Link to comment
Mxvxc Posted February 5, 2021 Report Share Posted February 5, 2021 Ok, stupid question about to be asked, and yes I’ve already poured over the 42 pages of this forum numerous times before I gave up and decided to ask for help. Single cam KA into ‘69 goon. Question is regarding the ECCS portion of the CAN/AM box. I’ve stripped the engine harness and tagged all of the required wiring to run into the box, however, the black w/ white stripe wires are my problem so far. Wire 109 is easy to chase and ends at at a unused plug, BUT, my 38/47 black w/ white stripe wires are actually tied back together about halfway down the harness and end at the plug that attaches to the MAF sensor? So what do I do with those two wires? I can’t imagine I’m supposed to cut it from the MAF sensor plug, or do I only tie wire 109 into the eccs block?? Appreciate the help, I might have been a little too ambitious as I’ve never done an FI swap and am on my own as far this build and don’t know of any local vehicles, that I’m aware of, to just physically go look at their setups. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted February 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 22 hours ago, Mxvxc said: Ok, stupid question about to be asked, and yes I’ve already poured over the 42 pages of this forum numerous times before I gave up and decided to ask for help. Single cam KA into ‘69 goon. Question is regarding the ECCS portion of the CAN/AM box. I’ve stripped the engine harness and tagged all of the required wiring to run into the box, however, the black w/ white stripe wires are my problem so far. Wire 109 is easy to chase and ends at at a unused plug, BUT, my 38/47 black w/ white stripe wires are actually tied back together about halfway down the harness and end at the plug that attaches to the MAF sensor? So what do I do with those two wires? I can’t imagine I’m supposed to cut it from the MAF sensor plug, or do I only tie wire 109 into the eccs block?? Appreciate the help, I might have been a little too ambitious as I’ve never done an FI swap and am on my own as far this build and don’t know of any local vehicles, that I’m aware of, to just physically go look at their setups. All the black with white stripe wires hook together and connect into eccs1 . If you just connect from chassis plug you don't need to trace them all out. There is just one black with white stripe wire at the chassis plug. Quote Link to comment
Mxvxc Posted February 6, 2021 Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 2 hours ago, Icehouse said: All the black with white stripe wires hook together and connect into eccs1 . If you just connect from chassis plug you don't need to trace them all out. There is just one black with white stripe wire at the chassis plug. Thank you. I’m sure I’m overthinking most of it. Just always try to remember to “measure twice, cut once” kinda thing. Quote Link to comment
Jessip Posted March 6, 2021 Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 Got my box all wired up and it functioned correctly.. BUT I went to town to grab an ignition coil. And I came back, ran one more test and all I get is a solid green and yellow light with with no delay on green... 89 ka24e ECU #11... 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 23, 2021 Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 I’m in need of help finding the wiring for my can am s14 harness I have mostly everything set beside the eccs part having trouble figuring out what is the actual wires I need to look for I found the ecu back up power don’t know he other two Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 23, 2021 Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 Is this where we get all our eccs wire from? 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 23, 2021 Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 (edited) There’s a lot of wires I’m gonna be getting rid off now haha Edited April 23, 2021 by Zonargx 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 23, 2021 Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 this is how I have my wiring does anyone see anything wrong all the help is appreciated thanks 1 Quote Link to comment
Matts_datto_wontstart Posted June 6, 2021 Report Share Posted June 6, 2021 Hi everyone, Can anyone shed light on "ECT", im under the impression its a engine coolant temp sensor for the ecu I've consulted the FSM with a s14 Zenki Sr20det however it shows it wired to ecu and ground sensors, the wiring diagrams ive been going off of shows it hooked up to 12v with O2, VTC. Just want to confirm its not wired to 12v Thanks Matt 1 Quote Link to comment
grannyknot Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 I got the KA24DE in the 510 started, couple of problems, I can't start the engine while cranking with the key, only by using a remote connected to the starter. The fuel pump and ECCS on the canam box are on and lit but while starting with the key but the amber led light on the canam box for RUN is not lit, when I let the key go and it springs back to ON the RUN led comes back and the FP turns off, any ideas? Also once the engine warms up it starts cycling with the revs moving up and down, video can be seen here on this thread, thanks. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Little help with an SR swapped 510 with fuel pump issues. The car's with my brother in Ashland so I've been helping by phone. We're running the car on a Link stand alone ECU and a Wiring Specialties harness. Normally when the key is switched on the 2 pumps (run in parallel) fire up, run until the fuel system is pressurized, and then shuts off. Intermittently when the key is switched on the electrical system powers up but the pumps doesn't fire up. It acts like a lose connection, but he's checked the wiring connections, fuse, relay, pumps, but nothing found. Any advice I can pass on? 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 I put a video together going over the factory 89-90 KA24E ECU and wiring harness and what it takes to wire it into a 74 620 This includes the starter and alternator/voltage regulator bypass wiring as well as gauges as well. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 On 6/27/2021 at 9:26 PM, paradime said: Little help with an SR swapped 510 with fuel pump issues. The car's with my brother in Ashland so I've been helping by phone. We're running the car on a Link stand alone ECU and a Wiring Specialties harness. Normally when the key is switched on the 2 pumps (run in parallel) fire up, run until the fuel system is pressurized, and then shuts off. Intermittently when the key is switched on the electrical system powers up but the pumps doesn't fire up. It acts like a lose connection, but he's checked the wiring connections, fuse, relay, pumps, but nothing found. Any advice I can pass on? I was having a fuel pump issue that ended up being a bad ground circuit in my ECU. It was weird as I could manually trigger the relay and get the pump to run. I had to disconnect the battery to kill it. New ECU fixed it. Not sure if that is the issue, but maybe a bad ground somewhere? 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 On 2/6/2021 at 9:14 AM, Icehouse said: All the black with white stripe wires hook together and connect into eccs1 . If you just connect from chassis plug you don't need to trace them all out. There is just one black with white stripe wire at the chassis plug. I found these. They plug right into those. 🙂 S13 240sx Power Interface Connector MALE https://www.wiringspecialties.com/s13... Brown 240sx S13 Chassis Interface Connector MALE https://www.wiringspecialties.com/bro... and the white one for the dash. RHD 180sx S13 Dash Interface Male connector - Engine harness side https://www.wiringspecialties.com/cop... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 On 6/27/2021 at 2:05 PM, grannyknot said: I got the KA24DE in the 510 started, couple of problems, I can't start the engine while cranking with the key, only by using a remote connected to the starter. The fuel pump and ECCS on the canam box are on and lit but while starting with the key but the amber led light on the canam box for RUN is not lit, when I let the key go and it springs back to ON the RUN led comes back and the FP turns off, any ideas? Also once the engine warms up it starts cycling with the revs moving up and down, video can be seen here on this thread, thanks. Did you hook the starter wire up from the 510 harness to the KA starter? The 620 is a B/Y wire, not sure on the 510 revs up and down is sometimes a vacuum leak. Quote Link to comment
Patty D Posted April 13, 2022 Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 Hi all Currently wiring up a sr20det (red top) to a custom diy harness that I've made, I'm looking for advice on what needs power from the new loom as I don't have the factory fuse box in the engine bay, I know the ecu, eccs relays, ignition, fuel pump, cas, maf and so forth will all need a source of power, just wanted to see if anyone has done the same, full diy body(chassis) loom spliced into factory engine loom. Currently with the prices of looms for our 30 year on cars it wasn't worth buying another factory loom only to find out it was hacked up, hence why I've went diy which will suit my needs as a drift car with a bare minimum harness. Quote Link to comment
Cahoon520 Posted June 8, 2022 Report Share Posted June 8, 2022 On 12/23/2013 at 12:10 AM, Icehouse said: The ECU provides the ground when needed, that's how it controls the relay. hello I just reading though this post and I see this same question coming up over and over again. I know why some are confused about this. The ECU actually provides a 0-1 v signal to control the relay not an actual earth ground. The signal from the ECU when the relay is supposed to be open would be 12-14 v. Quote Link to comment
MH60M Posted January 1, 2023 Report Share Posted January 1, 2023 I bought a basket case KA Swapped AE86 project. 1996 ECU and KA24DE. Following the 1995 Schematic. Where does the Black/Yellow come from? I don't see it in my ECU. I do see it in my Chassis Harness, but I can't trace it back to the ECU. Car will not run. Just pops and sputters. 1996 Does not have an ECU LED because it's ODB2? Does 1996 require a crank sensor to run? There is no provision on my transmission for a Crank Sensor. Any help would be appreciated......I'm at a no-start situation. Quote Link to comment
MH60M Posted January 1, 2023 Report Share Posted January 1, 2023 On 4/23/2021 at 12:20 AM, Zonargx said: this is how I have my wiring does anyone see anything wrong all the help is appreciated thanks Did this work for you? I see you have different color wires. I have a 1996 and it looks similar to you schematic. My car won't start. Do you have the Crank sensor wired? Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 3, 2023 Report Share Posted January 3, 2023 Black with yellow goes to the cold start regulator. It is on the intake. You likely need the crank sensor hooked up to run. Quote Link to comment
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