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How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything


Icehouse

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Where is your keyed power hooked to the car?  I would unhook it where it hooks to the 510 harness and see if it shuts off when you do that.  If it does something in the original harness is keeping it on.  Great looking wiring!!! 

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5 hours ago, Icehouse said:

Where is your keyed power hooked to the car?  I would unhook it where it hooks to the 510 harness and see if it shuts off when you do that.  If it does something in the original harness is keeping it on.  Great looking wiring!!! 

 

Thanks for replying Jeff, the Key Pwr is the 12ga blue/red stripe which is taking power from the black/white wire that use to go to the old coil.  I just disconnected it and the ECCS and Fuel pump continue to run so I guess I should check the #46 & #109 ECU Bup next? 

I just edited the 1st post, all 3 circuits come on with the ignition key, turn the key off and only the RUN circuit turns off, ECCS and Fuel pump remain on until the battery is disconnected.

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3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

 

Thanks for replying Jeff, the Key Pwr is the 12ga blue/red stripe which is taking power from the black/white wire that use to go to the old coil.  I just disconnected it and the ECCS and Fuel pump continue to run so I guess I should check the #46 & #109 ECU Bup next? 

I just edited the 1st post, all 3 circuits come on with the ignition key, turn the key off and only the RUN circuit turns off, ECCS and Fuel pump remain on until the battery is disconnected.

 

Hmm that is an odd one.  Something is back feeding but everything looks correct. My only guess is there is 1 black with white stripe wire that comes out of the ecu that does not need to be hooked up to the others.  I think it's for powering a component we don't use.  That wire could be back feeding the system and not allowing the ecu to shut down.  keep us posted

 

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  • 1 month later...

Ok, stupid question about to be asked, and yes I’ve already poured over the 42 pages of this forum numerous times before I gave up and decided to ask for help. Single cam KA into ‘69 goon. Question is regarding the ECCS portion of the CAN/AM box. I’ve stripped the engine harness and tagged all of the required wiring to run into the box, however, the black w/ white stripe wires are my problem so far. Wire 109 is easy to chase and ends at at a unused plug, BUT, my 38/47 black  w/ white stripe wires are actually tied back together about halfway down the harness and end at the plug that attaches to the MAF sensor? So what do I do with those two wires? I can’t imagine I’m supposed to cut it from the MAF sensor plug, or do I only tie wire 109 into the eccs block??

 

Appreciate the help, I might have been a little too ambitious as I’ve never done an FI swap and am on my own as far this build and don’t know of any local vehicles, that I’m aware of, to just physically go look at their setups. 
 

 

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22 hours ago, Mxvxc said:

Ok, stupid question about to be asked, and yes I’ve already poured over the 42 pages of this forum numerous times before I gave up and decided to ask for help. Single cam KA into ‘69 goon. Question is regarding the ECCS portion of the CAN/AM box. I’ve stripped the engine harness and tagged all of the required wiring to run into the box, however, the black w/ white stripe wires are my problem so far. Wire 109 is easy to chase and ends at at a unused plug, BUT, my 38/47 black  w/ white stripe wires are actually tied back together about halfway down the harness and end at the plug that attaches to the MAF sensor? So what do I do with those two wires? I can’t imagine I’m supposed to cut it from the MAF sensor plug, or do I only tie wire 109 into the eccs block??

 

Appreciate the help, I might have been a little too ambitious as I’ve never done an FI swap and am on my own as far this build and don’t know of any local vehicles, that I’m aware of, to just physically go look at their setups. 
 

 

 

 

All the black with white stripe wires hook together and connect into eccs1 .  If you just connect from chassis plug you don't need to trace them all out.  There is just one black with white stripe wire at the chassis plug.  

 

 

51682941_chassisplugs13.jpg.3ec43abf7c50320a45c474bb20ff192e.jpg

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2 hours ago, Icehouse said:

 

 

All the black with white stripe wires hook together and connect into eccs1 .  If you just connect from chassis plug you don't need to trace them all out.  There is just one black with white stripe wire at the chassis plug.  

 

 

51682941_chassisplugs13.jpg.3ec43abf7c50320a45c474bb20ff192e.jpg

Thank you. I’m sure I’m overthinking most of it. Just always try to remember to “measure twice, cut once” kinda thing.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Got my box all wired up and it functioned correctly.. BUT I went to town to grab an ignition coil. And I came back, ran one more test and all I get is a solid green and yellow light with with no delay on green... 89 ka24e ECU #11... 

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  • 1 month later...

I’m in need of help finding the wiring for my can am s14 harness I have mostly everything set beside the eccs part having trouble figuring out what is the actual wires I need to look forimage.thumb.jpeg.d47518753cd2a74007f741ca259c7651.jpeg

I found the ecu back up power don’t know he other two

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  • 1 month later...

Hi everyone, 

Can anyone shed light on "ECT", im under the impression its a engine coolant temp sensor for the ecu I've consulted the FSM with a s14 Zenki Sr20det however it shows it wired to ecu and ground sensors, the wiring diagrams ive been going off of shows it hooked up to 12v with O2, VTC. 

 

Just want to confirm its not wired to 12v 

 

Thanks Matt 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got the KA24DE in the 510 started, couple of problems, I can't start the engine while cranking with the key, only by using a remote connected to the starter. The fuel pump and ECCS on the canam box are on and lit but while starting with the key but the amber led light on the canam box for RUN is not lit, when I let the key go and it springs back to ON the RUN led comes back and the FP turns off, any ideas?

Also once the engine warms up it starts cycling with the revs moving up and down, video can be seen here on this thread, thanks.

 

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Little help with an SR swapped 510 with fuel pump issues. The car's with my brother in Ashland so I've been helping by phone. We're running the car on a Link stand alone ECU and a Wiring Specialties harness. Normally when the key is switched on the 2 pumps (run in parallel) fire up, run until the fuel system is pressurized, and then shuts off. Intermittently when the key is switched on the electrical system powers up but the pumps doesn't fire up. It acts like a lose connection, but he's checked the wiring connections, fuse, relay, pumps, but nothing found. Any advice I can pass on?

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  • 2 months later...

I put a video together going over the factory 89-90 KA24E ECU and wiring harness and what it takes to wire it into a 74 620

This includes the starter and alternator/voltage regulator bypass wiring as well as gauges as well. 

 

 

 

 

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On 6/27/2021 at 9:26 PM, paradime said:

Little help with an SR swapped 510 with fuel pump issues. The car's with my brother in Ashland so I've been helping by phone. We're running the car on a Link stand alone ECU and a Wiring Specialties harness. Normally when the key is switched on the 2 pumps (run in parallel) fire up, run until the fuel system is pressurized, and then shuts off. Intermittently when the key is switched on the electrical system powers up but the pumps doesn't fire up. It acts like a lose connection, but he's checked the wiring connections, fuse, relay, pumps, but nothing found. Any advice I can pass on?

 

 

I was having a fuel pump issue that ended up being a bad ground circuit in my ECU. 
It was weird as I could manually trigger the relay and get the pump to run. I had to disconnect the battery to kill it. 

 

New ECU fixed it. 

 

Not sure if that is the issue, but maybe a bad ground somewhere?

 

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On 2/6/2021 at 9:14 AM, Icehouse said:

 

 

All the black with white stripe wires hook together and connect into eccs1 .  If you just connect from chassis plug you don't need to trace them all out.  There is just one black with white stripe wire at the chassis plug.  

 

 

51682941_chassisplugs13.jpg.3ec43abf7c50320a45c474bb20ff192e.jpg

 

 

I found these. They plug right into those. 🙂

 

S13 240sx Power Interface Connector MALE https://www.wiringspecialties.com/s13...

Brown 240sx S13 Chassis Interface Connector MALE https://www.wiringspecialties.com/bro...

 

and the white one for the dash.

 

 

RHD 180sx S13 Dash Interface Male connector - Engine harness side https://www.wiringspecialties.com/cop...

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On 6/27/2021 at 2:05 PM, grannyknot said:

I got the KA24DE in the 510 started, couple of problems, I can't start the engine while cranking with the key, only by using a remote connected to the starter. The fuel pump and ECCS on the canam box are on and lit but while starting with the key but the amber led light on the canam box for RUN is not lit, when I let the key go and it springs back to ON the RUN led comes back and the FP turns off, any ideas?

Also once the engine warms up it starts cycling with the revs moving up and down, video can be seen here on this thread, thanks.

 

 

 

Did you hook the starter wire up from the 510 harness to the KA starter?
The 620 is a B/Y wire, not sure on the 510

 

revs up and down is sometimes a vacuum leak. 

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  • 7 months later...

Hi all

 

Currently wiring up a sr20det (red top) to a custom diy harness that I've made, I'm looking for advice on what needs power from the new loom as I don't have the factory fuse box in the engine bay, I know the ecu, eccs relays, ignition, fuel pump, cas, maf and so forth will all need a source of power, just wanted to see if anyone has done the same, full diy body(chassis) loom spliced into factory engine loom.

 

Currently with the prices of looms for our 30 year on cars it wasn't worth buying another factory loom only to find out it was hacked up, hence why I've went diy which will suit my needs as a drift car with a bare minimum harness.

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/23/2013 at 12:10 AM, Icehouse said:

 

The ECU provides the ground when needed, that's how it controls the relay.  

hello I just reading though this post and I see this same question coming up over and over again.  I know why some are confused about this. The ECU actually provides a 0-1 v signal to control the relay not an actual earth ground. The signal from the ECU when the relay is  supposed to be open would be 12-14 v.

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  • 6 months later...

I bought a basket case KA Swapped AE86 project. 1996 ECU and KA24DE.

 

Following the 1995 Schematic. 

 

Where does the Black/Yellow come from? I don't see it in my ECU. I do see it in my Chassis Harness, but I can't trace it back to the ECU.

 

Car will not run. Just pops and sputters.

 

1996 Does not have an ECU LED because it's ODB2?

Does 1996 require a crank sensor to run? There is no provision on my transmission for a Crank Sensor.

 

Any help would be appreciated......I'm at a no-start situation. 

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On 4/23/2021 at 12:20 AM, Zonargx said:

image.thumb.jpeg.45f29ab85f84acd794dfb63e1f87d8b8.jpeg
this is how I have my wiring does anyone see anything wrong all the help is appreciated 

 

thanks

Did this work for you? I see you have different color wires. I have a 1996 and it looks similar to you schematic. My car won't start. Do you have the Crank sensor wired?

Thanks for any help. 

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