Datsun_SME Posted April 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 My first video. Hope it works. Me starting my 1970 521. Timing is off my a couple teeth. Does any one know, when I pull the oil pump off to change the rod thing that drives the distributor, is all of my brand new oil going to come out? If so, fuck my life! and my new clutch with odd throw-out bearing works! Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 You might want that windshield too. Quote Link to comment
Datsun_SME Posted April 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 When I bought my truck five years ago the PO had aftermarket oil pressure, temp, and voltammeter gauge. I wanted to keep stock temp gauge so I followed the wire leading from the dash cluster and found the old temp hook-up. Bought new temp sending unit and the truck was running hot. So after running for about 20-30 min I checked thermostat to make sure working properly and when I opened thermostat housing the thermostat was wide open( covered with gunk). When I ran it with-out thermostat never overheated. Hate to ASS-U-ME but figured my radiator was bad because it sat for so long. Well I bought radiator from champion and need to install when the weather gets above 20deg. To cold for me! Other than that , I did end up getting bench seat from junk yard and installed it. Ill need to get it re-upholstered but it works for now, (I think better than the shitty bucket seats previously in it). Ill post in-cab pics when weather warms up. Quote Link to comment
Rocket Dog Posted April 18, 2013 Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 No really, if that windshield is good you should snag it. They're hard to come by, harder still in Colorado. Quote Link to comment
Datsun_SME Posted April 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 Sorry Rocket I was meaning to get back....... I think I will snag that window. I'm pretty sure its in better condition than mine. I really need to fix the rust on the floor board. Its pretty bad, no fab skills here so im probably going to get my pants pulled down to get it fixed. Quote Link to comment
Datsun_SME Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Alright I need some help! so I installed new radiator this weekend and ran my engine.....was running fine for a bit the I noticed a little white smoke from exhaust pipe. Then after a couple of more minutes it was a constant white smoke. so I smelled it and it smelled like coolant. Now my head gasket had previously blown that's why I tore engine out in first place. Gasket blew right between 2 and 3 cylinder. Anyway, I thought maybe I need to tighten down a little harder on head bolts, that worked for about 3 minutes when I ran again, then constant white smoke which smelled of coolant. I ended up taking head off again and noticed that in the same spot where head gasket blew(between 2 and 3 cylinder) there was already some noticeable "deterioration" and coolant present in the head along with the gasket. Now I never put any sort of cooper/ aluminum sealer on the head gasket. In my manual it say " from 73-80 do not use any kind of sealant" ( my engine is an L20B) So could this be problem? do I need copper sealer? Or is the head just warped? If getting the head shaved needs to be done should I get it ported? Better cam? I got a little side cash to spend so I would like to hear some ideas. Head is w58 Peanut Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 I first would take the head in and have it checked for warpage, you don't want to do this a 3rd time. Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 What wayno said,so you just swapped gaskets and it did it again more then likely warped head. Quote Link to comment
Alexandheronfire Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 My guess would be a warped head. Had a bad cylinder head on a 4ag, turned out to be something like a crack from cyl 3 to the coolant channel. If you take the head off I would inspect it for a hairline fracture between the two cylinders. Also most machine shops only charge 100$ bucks to resurface a head and inspect it for warpage and check valve seals. Quote Link to comment
Datsun_SME Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 I got the head resurfaced last Tuesday and got it back the same day! Only got charged $60. This weekend i'm going to install the head for the second time. hope no more coolant from the exhaust. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 hmmm closed chamber head Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 I got the head resurfaced last Tuesday and got it back the same day! Only got charged $60. This weekend i'm going to install the head for the second time. hope no more coolant from the exhaust. Was it warped, what did the machinist say? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 nice head. yeah what the machinist say. I wonder if he stripped the head down before he machined it. I would assume a valkave job also if its already in the shop. I use copper cote from Permatex and spray on both sides but I dont think its really needed. I have stuck on Felpro Head gaskets on bare. Seems OK and another thing. If the intake gasket is loose and you run a water line (water passage head) those could be loose and suck water in thru the gasket if not tight Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Was the top of the head machined? If not, the top is still warped,and your camshaft may bind, and not turn freely. This could be a cause of camshaft breaking in the middle, camshaft bearings wearing out, or just loosing a bit of power. the camshaft should turn easily by hand without the rocker arms in the head. Quote Link to comment
Datsun_SME Posted April 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 hmmm closed chamber head really don't understand the whole closed chamber thing....good or bad? Was it warped, what did the machinist say? Yes it was. nice head. yeah what the machinist say. I wonder if he stripped the head down before he machined it. I would assume a valkave job also if its already in the shop. I use copper cote from Permatex and spray on both sides but I dont think its really needed. I have stuck on Felpro Head gaskets on bare. Seems OK and another thing. If the intake gasket is loose and you run a water line (water passage head) those could be loose and suck water in thru the gasket if not tight Machinist said it was warped. He didn't strip down head all the way. did pressure test and said the head was good? I did get the copper cote, put it together yesterday and drove around for awhile today no problems, didn't overheat, didn't smoke Was the top of the head machined? If not, the top is still warped,and your camshaft may bind, and not turn freely. This could be a cause of camshaft breaking in the middle, camshaft bearings wearing out, or just loosing a bit of power. the camshaft should turn easily by hand without the rocker arms in the head. I asked the machinist and he said top of head was fine. no binding of cam. but it ran good today, need to weld exhaust together cause its cut right now and extremely loud. Quote Link to comment
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