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Draker

The forgotten Beige 69 510 build *Pics fixed through page 8*

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:fu: cork gaskets, I wish I was home, I would come over and give you a hand, stupid truck screwed me this week, had to leave friday, as soon as my GF moves up here from L.A I'm getting a local job.

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NOSSSSSSSSSS

 

Actually just got them from the dealer.

 

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Sweet, now we can go cruise with Al and the gang!, we should do something next Saturday evening with all our local ratsuners!

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Sweet, now we can go cruise with Al and the gang!, we should do something next Saturday evening with all our local ratsuners!

 

I need to get some miles on it. Right now it's got about 50ft on the new engine.... and you filmed the whole thing.. lol. 

 

Also that accelerator pump is still leaking fuel.

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I need to get some miles on it. Right now it's got about 50ft on the new engine.... and you filmed the whole thing.. lol. 

 

Also that accelerator pump is still leaking fuel.

 

Not planning going far, around town...

 

I bet the diaphragm is punctured, do you have an extra from the carb kit?, or even the old one if you replaced it?

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Not planning going far, around town...

 

I bet the diaphragm is punctured, do you have an extra from the carb kit?, or even the old one if you replaced

 

I bet you're right. I just haven't had time to remove it. I thought tightening the screws fixed it, but it didn't. I'll take a look tonight if I have time. Also the old one is long gone. I found one online for $12 shipped. Not the worst price I guess.. also checking my local options.

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My car is a 69. Bumper light is 68 only. I would totally rock it, but then I'd have to buy the 68 bumper too. $$ :)

 

I'll double check to make sure, but I think you just have to put a couple of holes in yours.  ;)

 

 

This time I'll likely just drop the tranny. Stabbing the engine to the tranny is tough when trying to clear the dust shield/plate over the center link.

 

Probably too late now, but if you ever have to do it again...

 

You can pull the bolts out of the idler arm. This takes only a few minutes and drops the center link down 2-3". Makes it much easier to install the engine/trans as a combo. 

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I'll double check to make sure, but I think you just have to put a couple of holes in yours. ;)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Probably too late now, but if you ever have to do it again...

 

You can pull the bolts out of the idler arm. This takes only a few minutes and drops the center link down 2-3". Makes it much easier to install the engine/trans as a combo.

 

 

 

 

Wow.. duh.. great tip!

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Wow.. duh.. great tip!

 

Took me 4 or 5 engine swaps to figure it out.   :rofl:

 

But I do it that way all the time now. Even for the stock engine/trans. It's an absolute must for the long tail trans. 

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Here is the accel pump diaphragm. 

 

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Idle set, timing set, carb tuned..   (still waiting for replacement diaphragm.)

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Re-wired clock. It actually works now and the illumination turns on and off with the headlights.

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weberparts direct has the accel pump diaprams other wise the kit is like 20$ for really nothing. Needle valve ,pump and 2 gaskets.

 

I buy sparre carb kits but only use the accel pump as that seems to get most wear. Next is the needle valve

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Thanks. Yeah this one had about 400 miles on it. I bought a kit and replaced it. I'm bumming a replacement from a local guy. That should old me over until I get my SU's back from Ztherapy.

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Hot compression numbers on rebuilt engine after 5 miles. Looks good!

 

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No more brown rust sludge.. I'll flush a bit more and actually put coolant in int.

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Plugs are looking good!

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Clock illumination!

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After swapping to the L20 I thought I should check hood clearance. Looked to close for comfort..

 

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Slotted motor mounts. Only one pictured.. the other was ugly and not fit for public consumption.

 

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No post shots of clearance.. I fail. But lets just say I have a little more than double the clearance now.

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I got these really sweet floor mats from Al. (Denmarkboy)

 

I'll give them a bit of love and clean them up a bit. They are in good shape, just dusty. Thanks Al!

 

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In preparation for Blue Lake and other activities I've been trying to get some miles on the engine. I am guessing I've got 100 miles on it so far.

 

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whos retracts did u use for your setbelts 

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whos retracts did u use for your setbelts 

 

Only complaint is they ride high on your neck because there is no extender up top. My seats sit really low though.

IMAG0071_zpsja6qpowu.jpg

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Well..... the week long shake down was going so well.. Until this morning. I started it this morning, let it warm up a bit. Hopped in and started ripping down the road.. Got about 6-10 blocks away from my house slowing down at a stoplight and it died. Like instantly died.. no sputter.

 

I tossed it into reverse and used the starter to get me parked next to the curb. Tough to diagnose when all you have is a flashlight and a stethoscope.

 

Found there was no spark. Walked home got some tools.. Found no continuity thought the matchbox terminals. Went home and grabbed spare matchbox and installed. Drive the car home.

 

So, yes, these things do just die.

 

Anyway, seems to be fine now, I'll check it more when I get home. I was only 3.5 hours late for work.

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Clock illumination!

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The clock looks awesome!

 

Bummer deal about the issue with the spark, hopefully your boss isn't a hardass :). I'm curious to hear what you find as the root cause!

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One it cools down a bit I'll go do some investigating then drive the shit out of it.

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good to see it out n about man!

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Checking condition of alternator and ignition system. Not sure how dwell is being calculated, or if it's just out of spec.

 

Alternator looks to be in good condition.

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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