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Round 2, FIGHT! - now with a DE in progress(for real this time...)


Eagle_Adam

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Gotta hog out the centers now that I have disc fronts first Jrock

 

 

But before that I gotta get a new starter cus mine just shit out on a coffee run @ work.....

 

 

What yr Z has a gear reduction starter that will work on my truck?

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Measure the ID of the hub opening on the wheel.

 

Pull your hub & machine it a 0.25-0.375" or so smaller than the opening. SUPER easy.

 

Mine are 2 3/4" at the base & taper up to the stock dimension. It doesn't have to taper. I just preferred how it looked.  

 

IMG_00153.jpg

 

IMG_00156.jpg

 

IMG_00155.jpg

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damn heretic beat me and trumped me wth solid info ..... its real the best way ... the router to the wheel trick is fawking dangerous and loud....in the rears i just massaged the axle casting with a grinder...as typical .... use a straight edge and make sure its flat to the drum ......... i eyeballed mine and had a wobler at first .....all bonered out to run new shoes

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damn heretic beat me and trumped me wth solid info ..... its real the best way ... the router to the wheel trick is fawking dangerous and loud....in the rears i just massaged the axle casting with a grinder...as typical .... use a straight edge and make sure its flat to the drum ......... i eyeballed mine and had a wobler at first .....all bonered out to run new shoes

 

hahahaha jrock, I'm trying to compile all my pics to do a write up on my build. I just loaded these pics the other day :)

 

I lucked out in the rear. My particular wheels sat perfectly into the depression of the drums but if they hadn't a 0.25" wheel spacer would have solved the issue, no problem. I've actually been thinking of putting them in just to push the rear wheels out closer to the fender.   

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Measure the ID of the hub opening on the wheel.

 

Pull your hub & machine it a 0.25-0.375" or so smaller than the opening. SUPER easy.

 

WHY would you machine the hubs down that far?? Machine them down just so that the wheels fit on the hubs, this is known as a hubcentric fit. This is how all newer vehicles wheels fit. Doing this solves so many vibration problems, since the wheel is perfectly centered on the hub every time. 

 

Lugnuts/wheels studs will not center the wheels PERFECTLY. Sure, they are very close, and this method worked for many years and doesn't have any safety concerns, but why would you take a step backwards :(  in technology when you can step forward and get a smoother riding :thumbup: vehicle out of it?

 

What is the hub bore of the stock titan wheels? Is it smaller than the Frontier/Xterra/D21?

 

Adam, maybe now is the time to do a little planning and not machine the stock hubs at all. Maybe consider getting D21 spindles/hubs/brakes and having those hubs machined, then just do a quick spindle/brake swap one day with less down time on your driver?

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WHY would you machine the hubs down that far?? Machine them down just so that the wheels fit on the hubs, this is known as a hubcentric fit. This is how all newer vehicles wheels fit. Doing this solves so many vibration problems, since the wheel is perfectly centered on the hub every time. 

 

I did consider machining to be hubcentric but I wanted to have as many wheel options available as possible.

 

My particular after market wheels utilize conical lug nuts so I went that route. I have zero vibrations issue thus far at least.

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What is the hub bore of the stock titan wheels? Is it smaller than the Frontier/Xterra/D21?

 

Adam, maybe now is the time to do a little planning and not machine the stock hubs at all. Maybe consider getting D21 spindles/hubs/brakes and having those hubs machined, then just do a quick spindle/brake swap one day with less down time on your driver?

 

They must not have the same center on them. I had Xterra wheels prior to the swap.

 

PS- thanks again yello620 for all your info/help in my spindle/hubs/brakes swap.!!!!

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