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dizzy plate help needed


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done and done. i drove it around for a couple weeks with 3 extra feet of wire that was bare at the ends just to see if it worked and a c-clamp to hold the dizzy in place. i went to pull-a-part and found a correct pedestal and adjusting plate. it's the l20b version on the right from a 77 620. the middle pedestal is the l16 and the one on the left is the naps. with the l20b pedestal i didn't need to turn the oil pump shaft.

dizzypedistals.jpg

 

wiring before i shored it all up.

dizzywiringbefore.jpg

 

i had grabbed a dizzy matchbox plug on a previous trip with as much extra wire on it as i could get.

dizzy1.jpg

 

here i taped up the 2 matchbox wires to look nice before permanently installing with connectors.

dizzywire.jpg

 

wiring after and i even ran the ground wire from the vac advance connector to the coil bracket.

dizzywiringafter.jpg

 

wiring done. i could have used the original points wire but then i would have to not used the cool dizzy match box plug. or i could have used the dizzy plug and chop the wire up close and tap in my original harness wire but it looks better with both coming off the correct plug thats why when i grabbed it i got as much wire with the plug as i could.

dizzywiringafter2.jpg

 

maybe i'll look into getting a matching coil and beefier plug wires so i can bypass the ballast. thanks for all the help guys.

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to be honest i didn't notice a difference and always liked points but then again my valves were so tight nothing would have made a noticeable difference. now adjusting the valves made a huge difference like night and day.

 

i tried a pertronics unit in my 65 dart years ago and it sucked. not only did it not make a difference on the rough idle i got shittier gas mileage. the adjusting plate hole was incorrect and unadjustable so the green tape ended up rubbing on the prongs and eventually the green tape came off and the maginets flew out. now that i realize the thing was out of adjustment i would someday give pertronics a second chance. but i shouldnt have to mod the adjusting hole on the pertronics plate. i miss that car.

 

now i drive around with my points dizzy in a box under the seat jic. i know, i know set and forget but ya never know.:D

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  • 4 weeks later...

Something to consider....that never really is.....the EI dizzy may have a different adv curve (both vac and mechanical) than the stock dizzy. You should get the correct coil so that you can open up the spark plug gap.....otherwise, you won't notice any positive difference over points...except that they won't wear out.

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Somehow I missed this update! Awesome you got it all done, I have yet to do mine even after working out that wiring diagram.

 

But now that my brakes are straight, it is time to look into it!

 

The question of the day is, now that you have to proper coil, and have regapped the plugs. Do you notice a difference?

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honestly i haven't noticed a difference with milage or performance.:( but my points wont be slipping anymore every month or 2. i haven't had any problems with the system. i could use a new cap and wires. i'm going to take a look at the plugs to see how they're doing.

 

my weber is so over jetted that my best lean is at a half a turn out.:eek: and i'm not into messing with the jets. i'll have a milage update at the end of the week and will probably mess around with throwing a hitachi back on there to see what happens for fun.

 

after i adjusted my valves around the same time as my dizzy swap there wasn't any more room for improvement as far as it running. those valves were like night and day. i will be checking the valves again just for fun.

 

crap i dropped my wifes archos 604 last night and broke it.:mad:

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I replaced my remote igniter with a matchbox about a year after I got the truck. Have never touched it in over 10 years!!! Drove it and forgot it. Once the center electrode in the cap fell through! It just wore it away. Well I never have to check the points so I'm never in there to see it. :lol: Now I sort of look at it every 4-5 years. :lol::lol:

 

They're great.

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my weber is so over jetted that my best lean is at a half a turn out.:eek: and i'm not into messing with the jets. i'll have a milage update at the end of the week and will probably mess around with throwing a hitachi back on there to see what happens for fun.

 

QUOTE]

 

Why are you not interested in changing a jet? The weber is so incredibly simple. Why not at least start with finding out what size idle jet you have in there. You dont even have to take the carb apart to do it. That would be the first jet to change if you idle needle is that far in.

Much simpler than the hitachi.

 

Search, and HAINZ has some very good pics on here that show exactly which jet we are talking about. Takes a screwdriver and about 10 seconds to change the jet. Worth a shot.

 

Jason

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i've been reluctant on asking if the jets have numbers stamped/etched on them or if you have to go by site. if they are numbered i will eventually play with it but the hitachi's are supposed to get better milage from what i hear. actually i've heard both.:confused:

 

i had a dhc-340 once that would have smoked any 32/36. anyway i just want to if my hitachi's still work decent. besides those big glass bowl windows turn me on for some reason. not the stupid little round hole ones.:D

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  • 4 weeks later...

old thread i apologize. quesiton is semi related i hope. i feel dumb asking this because i'm sure i know the answer (and had a confirm), but i figure i'd double (triple?) check.

 

ei dizzys have a different cap/rotor than the regular points dizzy correct? dizzy i got has a cracked cap and no rotor. thus my question

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If your adjustments are that out of wack your jets are way off... (maybe not WAY off but certainly a couple sizes) sounds like you got that thing second hand and it probably came off a much larger motor, maybe a 258 jeep... :lol: (inside joke)

 

jets here: http://www.racetep.com/weberX.html#jets

 

Tuning guide here with jet sizes on second page: http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_weber_tuning.html

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