dizzy plate help needed

[dat521gatherer]

it took me a while to locate a mount/pedestal for my dizzy. now that i have one the advance plate doesnt match. anyone know what model this plate goes to or if its correct for this dizzy and i need a different pedestal?

 

dizzy is a d4k9-08 from a hl510 1980 z20s according to the620.com

 

pedestal is from a 1980 720

 

am i correct in assuming i need either a 510 pedestil or a 620/720 mounting plate? if you have the part i need i'll kick down some duckets for you. thanks

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

the match boxes had 2 different timming plates/pedastals on the L20s that I know of.

 

the pedastal on the right looks like a l20 one that I rarely see. Datdoug needed that pedastal also. the more common one the tang will be more offset. so what happens at TDC the rorot will be between 1&3 plug wires.

 

 

so looks like you need to find the correct timming plate so the hole lines up.

 

I wouls just find TDC and get a mini C clamp and hold it down for now till you find one. who going to want to part with theres

 

 

the 510 L16 ones will only work on L16 single point/dua point and have the same issue the holes are offset as in your photo.

[dat521gatherer]

thanks hainz i'll try the c-clamp. if i run original coil and wires on my 71 521 l16 do i not bypass the ballast resistor?

[datzenmike]

Does this look like it?

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Z20Edist002Large.jpg[/img]"]

[banzai510(hainz)]

521 gatherer

 

I havent done this myself as I dont run matchboxes but I have seen on Jeff Hinos 1200 with a match box in there,

If you have the stock 1.6 ohm point coil and ballast

youll just take the positive of the matchbox and put it to the plus side of the ballast resisitor as like your hooking up a Pertronix.

take "B" of the matchbox and hook up to the plus side of the ballst in the 2nd drawing ,Contack "C" to the - side coil.

 

Most people run them like this as stock with a matchbox(1st drawing)

If using a 200sx .7 ohm or MSD Blaster 2 coil.you would remove the ballast and run the staraight 12volt as the New coils can handle this and take advange of the bigger spark and plug gap as in the forst drawing.

 

3rd drawing up in the corner is what I use. Piggyback connectors or ou can put a ROUND lug and unscrew that 8mm nut and put it on that way.

 

I hope this helps but I havent done it myself,if anybody else has a opion on this feel free to add any comments

 

here are some drawings

[dat521gatherer]

yeah mike that looks like the base pedestal i need. interested in parting with the base or the whole distributer?

 

hainz i'll try route number one. thanks.

 

side note-i recently noticed that my wires to my coil were backwards the positive and negitive.:eek: doesn't seem to make a difference although it seems like it should.:confused:

[banzai510(hainz)]

my wires to my coil were backwards the positive and negitive. doesn't seem to make a difference although it seems like it should

 

I seen this on a kids truck that was at my house I put it back to normal, I didnt notice a difference myself.

 

you mean hook up up like #2 drawing if you want to run the stock coil and ballast

 

#1 if you have the MSD coil and remove the ballast.

 

i think this is what you need

from the for sale section

[datzenmike]

yeah mike that looks like the base pedestal i need. interested in parting with the base or the whole distributer?

 

hainz i'll try route number one. thanks.

 

side note-i recently noticed that my wires to my coil were backwards the positive and negitive.:eek: doesn't seem to make a difference although it seems like it should.:confused:

 

If the polarity is switched the spark jumps from head to plug tip instead of the other way round. The plug tip will erode faster this way.

 

 

 

dat521 gatherer: It would be cheaper and faster to assemble the distributor like the above picture and scribe an arc line in the underside of the steel plate by using the bolt hole in the aluminum pedestal. Take the plate off and drill a series of holes and file a nice smooth slot... or take to a machine shop. What do you think??

[gen4maxima536]

Does this look like it?

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Z20Edist002Large.jpg[/img]"]

 

thats the mount that comes off the z20 that the dizzy was pulled from, i'll have to see if i can just bolt that up to an L motor. when i looked at it previously i didn't think it would work. but now that i look at it again....

[dat521gatherer]

yes after i make sure it works and lines up on the plate i will take the dremel and drill to it.:)

[datzenmike]

You might find that the L20B pedestal will position the distributor body (and cap) differently and the rotor (while in the correct position) may not point to the #1 plug wire. Just move the wires around OR remove the oil pump and reposition the spindle so the rotor does point in the proper L20B position. Either will work, it's the results that count.

 

I have a couple of the Z20E matchbox 4 wire distributors. I noticed that the match box and vacuum advance will be positioned differently if mounted on an L engine. If the Vacuum advance interferes with the thermostat housing, pull the spindle and 180 it. Let us know what you did to get it going.

[banzai510(hainz)]

datsunmike wrote

the Vacuum advance interferes with the thermostat housing, pull the spindle and 180 it. yOu must mean pedastal mike?

 

doing this doesnt change the vaccum adv location by dropping the spindal you have to rotate the pedastal 180 deg and see where the vac adv goes to .

 

521 gatherer

I have a L20b dizzy with a Pertronix ready to drop in. 75$ thats for the pertronix, the dizzy is free!!!!!!

[datzenmike]

:lol: Thanks for keeping me honest, Hainz. Yeah.... pedestal.

[gen4maxima536]

alright, i just did this today. found a pedestal for a matchbox dizzy that came off an HL510 that is.

 

dat521gatherer that thin metal plate you have is for the naps-z dizzy mount. i tossed mine out.

 

after trying a half dozen pedestal and plate (that thin plate between the pedestal and the dizzy body that both adjuster screws go though) combinations from early points dizzys, i found that the pedestal and plate combo from an L20b electronic dizzy (non matchbox) and the pedestal off a L18 that came off a 620 lined up perfectly. then once mounted on the truck, lined up just right and still have the normal amount of adjustment room.

[dat521gatherer]

hmm... i hooked it up and it sounds like the firing order is off.

 

this isn't the first time. i got this dizzy with a 620 last year and me and the guy i was buying it from couldn't get it to run with the electric dizzy. so i threw the points back in and it ran.

 

so i finally get around to trying it in my 521 and it does the same thing. back fires through the carb. i tried moving the plug wires around and turning the dizzy without any luck.

 

it should be as easy as putting it on tdc on compression stroke #1 and putting the plug wires on starting with where the rotor is pointing. :confused::confused:

[banzai510(hainz)]

does the prong line up with the magnets when the rotor is pointing at a plug wire

[dat521gatherer]

thats what i was going to check next. thanks

[Cuts metal like mad]

I just scored an EI dizzy today at the yard off of a 78 620... the whole setup, with coil and extra wiring for less than $20... :fu:

[Cuts metal like mad]

I borrowed this from the Jason Gray EI dizzy write up... enjoy, it should help you a heap ton.

 

The actual body of the NAPS-Z dizzy is identical to the '79-'80 L20B EI dizzy, the difference is that the aluminum dizzy pedistal that bolts to the NAPS-Z timing chain cover wont fit a L series timing cover and the matching "L" shaped steel timing adjustment plate is different. To bolt a NAPS-Z dizzy onto a L series motor, use the aluminum pedistal from another a L series EI dizzy. Just get the aluminum stand and steel adjuster plate from a 280zx, maxima or L20B motor and use it. You can also use your stock L16 aluminum stand and modify the NAPS-Z adjuster plate to fit. This requires flipping over the steel "L" shaped adjuster plate and moving/enlarging the adjustment slot to fit the new dizzy and stand. If you need to modify the "L"plate, just make sure that with the dizzy on the motor and crankshaft around #1 cylinder at 10deg BTDC (check that both camshaft lobes are pointed upward to verify #1 cylinder is on compression stroke), you should be able to adjust the dizzy so the triggers star/wheel prongs align up and fire the coil. If you need to reposition the range of dizzy adjsutment at the adjsuter bolt between the "L" plate and pedistal, you can remove the oil pump, pull out the drive spindle and re-install spindle positioned on a different crank gear tooth.

[Cuts metal like mad]

Well I just did my 3rd install of an EI dizzy... it was the first successful one though... it idles better and runs smoother, but its slower than hell now. I already knew I needed to rejet the carb but now its VERY noticeable. I figure I will need to time it too but I think the mains jets are off by a few sizes.

 

Hope that article helps, good luck with yours.

[dat521gatherer]

i checked the prongs and they line up when pointing at the plug wires. but 2 of the prongs are rubbing. that cant be good. no play in the shaft.

[dat521gatherer]

loosened 3 outer magnet ring screws and adjusted so they dont rub. i'll try again tomorrow.

[Cuts metal like mad]

no, rubbing is not good... there is a minimum and maximum air gap for it to work properly, refer to a service manual for a datsun/nissan that came with an EI dizzy... I have one some where but I'm too lazy to look it up, lol, but seriously... the pickup is adjustable, but its a PITA.

[dat521gatherer]

it runs!!! the magnet might need a little fine tuning adjustment but i have air gaps on all four prongs.

 

next is the pedestal problem, the c-clamp just isn't cutting it. not enough overlap to cut out a hole.

[Cuts metal like mad]

I borrowed this from the Jason Gray EI dizzy write up... enjoy, it should help you a heap ton.

 

The actual body of the NAPS-Z dizzy is identical to the '79-'80 L20B EI dizzy, the difference is that the aluminum dizzy pedistal that bolts to the NAPS-Z timing chain cover wont fit a L series timing cover and the matching "L" shaped steel timing adjustment plate is different. To bolt a NAPS-Z dizzy onto a L series motor, use the aluminum pedistal from another a L series EI dizzy. Just get the aluminum stand and steel adjuster plate from a 280zx, maxima or L20B motor and use it. You can also use your stock L16 aluminum stand and modify the NAPS-Z adjuster plate to fit. This requires flipping over the steel "L" shaped adjuster plate and moving/enlarging the adjustment slot to fit the new dizzy and stand. If you need to modify the "L"plate, just make sure that with the dizzy on the motor and crankshaft around #1 cylinder at 10deg BTDC (check that both camshaft lobes are pointed upward to verify #1 cylinder is on compression stroke), you should be able to adjust the dizzy so the triggers star/wheel prongs align up and fire the coil. If you need to reposition the range of dizzy adjsutment at the adjsuter bolt between the "L" plate and pedistal, you can remove the oil pump, pull out the drive spindle and re-install spindle positioned on a different crank gear tooth.

 

this will get you where you wanna be from here on out.