mikeanike99 Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Your truck is so clean! Love the paint and the emblems look really good! 1 Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted March 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 I have a complete timing set, oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket on the way from Rock Auto. I want to get this knocked out so I can get back to assembly. Do you guys usually yank the radiator to make the job easier? Quote Link to comment
jastrunk97 Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 Yes,I would be impressed if you did it with the Rad in.. 1 Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted March 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 This afternoon I drained the half-ounce or so of gear oil that was in the transmission and filled it with Sta-Lube GL-4 from NAPA. I also topped off the transfer case and diffs. The trans and t-case used the full gallon, but I had just enough to do both, and I have a gallon of Coastal GL-5 for the diffs. I had just hauled a bail of hay with the tractor, so I put the jug of gear oil on the tractors engine while I gathered tools to warm it up so it would pump easier. I picked up a pump for the jug for about ten bucks, and it worked well to fill the cases. The package claims that it moves one ounce per pump; I didn't check but watching the small air bubbles in the tube I can say that it pumps more oil than the tube holds with each pump and recovers fairly quickly. For ten bucks I was happy with it. The timing set should arrive any time, but it will be next week before I can install it. 1 Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 The timing kit from Rock Auto was delivered sometime this week. We had intended to spend the weekend in Pigeon Forge, but the weather may not be good enough for what we had planned. If not, maybe it will be good enough to crawl under the Datsun for a while. 1 Quote Link to comment
Boxcar Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 If the weather there is any thing like the weather here, I hope you have a garage.... Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 For the past couple evenings I have been working on the timing set. The radiator, p/s pump, fan, water pump, oil pump, front diff and oil pan have been removed. My impact wouldn't budge the crank pulley bolt, so I had to wedge the ratchet against the frame and bump the key to loosen it. The tensioner was all the way in when I removed the timing cover, which explains why the chain was flopping around. In this pic I had pulled it out by hand, and it moved freely after that. Still getting replaced. Before a sharp-eyed, witty reader remarks about the Fram oil filter, know that you are preaching to the choir and that I didn't put it there. It is a convenient thing to blame all my engine troubles on, though. Here, where the chain guide should be, you can see how the loose chain was damaging the bolts. The guide was lying next to the crank sprocket, halfway in the oil pan. I considered not pulling the oil pan since it appears that the leaking front seal was the reason the pan was wet, but I had to make sure there was no other carnage in the pan and that the pickup was clean. So I had to drop the diff, turn the wheels to one side, and pick up on the right A-arm (to lower the inside end of the half shaft) to get clearance to remove the pan. The oil was old and jet black, but there was not as much metal in the pan as I had expected. The flash makes the oil look milky in this pic, but it doesn't appear that way in person. Hard to tell in the pic, but the pan sump extends to the right past the mounting flange, making it a real joy to remove the six or so bolts on that side. Getting them back in will be an exercise in patience. A couple random shots while under the truck: Note D-Mike's sealant of choice, Redneck Chevy Orange RTV. Somebody's been in here before, Skeeter. Tomorrow night I will address the timing set and clean the parts for reassembly. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Great build! Color looks perfect. 1 Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted April 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 Assembled. Runs great. Didn't notice crack in timing cover. Gotta do it all again. *sigh* Quote Link to comment
mikeanike99 Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 I did that with my old enduro I changed something in the engine(don't remember what) and put it all back together and realized I had took out the old part and put it back in insted of the new one :( Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 I've done shit like that too many times to count. :lol: Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 Good to know I'm not the only one. I was pretty bummed when I found it, but I've accepted what has to be done and I'm working on getting a timing cover. At least the diff isn't installed yet. Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted May 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Finally got a chance to replace the timing cover after nearly everything I have with an engine suddenly needed attention. The Z24 is assembled, fires up and runs fine, but at about the time the thermostat opened, I started getting a knock just off of idle. I don't have a dash, so no gauges or lights, but I have a feeling the oil pump prime failed or the PRV is open. There was also oil smoke from the exhaust, something I have never seen from this engine. I suspect that running it for ten or fifteen minutes with probably no oil pressure just made the time and money I have invested in this engine a waste. I'm not happy, but I'm not giving up on this truck. I've come too far to push it into the weeds and move on. I will remove and check or replace the oil pump and evaluate the damage once I have oil pressure. If it's screwed, I will need to decide on rebuild or repower. Then once I finally get it drivable, I guess I will tear it down for the paint job it will probably need by then. Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Been doing a lot of tinkering and thinking. I have run the engine enough to know that it must be pumping oil. Not sure at what pressure, but I will get a tester when I get into town, probably today. I did check the PRV on the pump and found no obvious problems. I read on the webz that when a Z24 blows a head gasket between cylinders that it can sound just like a rod knock, so I did a compression check. I was expecting the rear two cylinders to be low (probably confusing it with one of my L20B's) but at operating temp, plugs out and throttle open I got 145, 150, 150 and 153. I can't speak to the accuracy of the Actron tester, but the low variance between cylinders seems to discount the HG theory. The knocking sound is only audible after it warms up and when the throttle is slightly open to bring RPM up to 1000-1500 at a guess. Over or under that, there is only a little valvetrain chatter and a ticking that may be the result of a thin-wall down pipe. The knock sounds like a rod to me, but I may get a couple more opinions on it. If I decide to get into the bottom end, at least the front diff and right axle are out and there is access. I just would have preferred to pull the engine months ago and do it all at once. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 If you wait to long you may end up with a crank that will need a serious re grind. If you can catch a problem early, you may just save save some money that you would otherwise not have to spend. So I guess it just comes down to what you more of, time or money? Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Thanks for the reply Jester. I am posting my thoughts for other members to bounce ideas around because someone always thinks of something I miss and I want to get this project moving again. I don't plan to run it until it's fixed other than verifying what is actually wrong. Once I know for sure, it'll be addressed one way or another. When I can do it depends on what I decide to do. I can rebuild it in the living room, but a repower (KA, VG, 4.3, etc.) will probably have to wait until my garage is built. That'll be late summer at best. A rebuild or repair would be the fastest way to start driving the truck, which is a priority because when I had a buyer for my daily driver, I let it go. Now I'm DD'ing a Highlander to keep the miles off the Cummins. Nice ride, but not really my style. Fortunately, there are other things I can do while I troubleshoot and make decisions. The tailgate needs finishing and there is plenty of assembly left to do. Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 So far two people have listened to the engine run--one a mechanic for a tree company--and neither think the knocking sound is a rod. One mentioned a possible wrist pin noise but neither could confidently pin it down. To me the pitch of the sound is between a valve tick and a rod knock. I hope it's not the new tensioner not doing its job and letting the chain get slack when it warms up. At this point I am not going to let it slow me down anymore, so I've been doing some assembly. I painted the grill and hood molding, and installed them and the headlights. I am working on adapting the front bumper brackets to the 720 frame. I also installed the right axle shaft and front diff. I figured I would like a black grill over the original argent, but it still needs the bumper and front park lamps to complete the look. I also have a grill guard to install if I choose. Here are a few pics taken after a quick bath. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Man, that's beautiful :cool: 1 Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Man, that's beautiful :cool: Thanks Steve. I see you had a blast this weekend. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 BTW, I need a set of lenses for the park lights in the valance panel if anybody wants to let go of a nice set. Ebay is full of Euro spec two-tone lenses, and even the available all-amber lamps are dual bulb versions. I'll go that way if I must, but I'm not sure if I would like the two-tone lenses. I also think an early grill would be nice if I can score one. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 BTW, I need a set of lenses for the park lights in the valance panel if anybody wants to let go of a nice set. Ebay is full of Euro spec two-tone lenses, and even the available all-amber lamps are dual bulb versions. I'll go that way if I must, but I'm not sure if I would like the two-tone lenses. I also think an early grill would be nice if I can score one. I have a couple sets of the parking lights. PM me your address and I'll send you a pair. :) I only have one extra grille but it is rough. 1 Quote Link to comment
SandyMush620 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 I have a couple sets of the parking lights. PM me your address and I'll send you a pair. :) I only have one extra grille but it is rough. Ok, thanks Steve, will do. Just hit me back with a total and I'll get it to you. I know you'll do me right. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 No need, will ship USPS flat rate. Picking up a small box after work, should go in the mailbox tomorrow. :) Quote Link to comment
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